My new Arc4, just some comments

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maverick

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Thanks to Keith, I received my Arc4 today. I must say I'm impressed by it's output. Unlike many others here, I very much like the computer switching system but not the switch itself. Unless I have a faulty unit, I find the switch to be very "sticky" with insufficient travel. Also, since certain functions require multiple clicks to activate, I would suggest increasing the double click time like what you can do on your computer. Right now, I find myself turning the light off instead of changing the brightness. Another problem I found with my unit is using different batteries. When I use the included duracell, it was fine and the feel of the switch was "ok". But when I used a surefire, it was very hard to turn on and off and even harder to achieve multiple clicks. I tried other surefires and duracells and they were all not okay and okay, respectively. I think it must have something to do with aminor size differences of the different battery manufacturers. Again, I think this could be solved by improving the switch mechanism. I guess right now I'll have to stick with the duracells instead of surefires. Anyone else had/have similar problems?
 

georget98

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The light automatically adapts to your clicking speed. Just click the switch 15 or 20 times slowly increasing or decreasing you speed as you do it.
 

Darell

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LOCO is more like it.
Also remember that the battery has to move in the body to activate the switch in the head. Try wiping the battery down with some WD-40 or similar to clean it up and let it slip in there easily. Also clean the inside of the tube well. I have also found that it can be really sensitive to having the body firmly tightened to the head.

Of course I only use one brand of battery in mine, so I haven't seen the variation that you mention.
 

gp01

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Your switch problems are well documented on this board since so many others have posted the same issues. I have sent my Arc4v2 back for the second time because it would not operate at all with Surefire or Sanyo 123s. I made the mistake of sending my Durcell in with the body and switch.They did not send a battery back so I had try what I had at home. I had an Energizer 123 and it connected about 80% of the time. I am not a big fan of the switch and I asked Arc if I would be entitled to an upgrade when a new switch is made available. They said no. And, that I will have purchase the new switch when availabe. Hopefully,the second time is the charm. I am not giving up yet. My Arc has spent more time in the mail than in my hand. I had camping trip in the Smokies last weekend and wish I had it.
 

McShawn

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<font color="blue"> </font> I have similar problems with my Arc4. I have a hard time accessing the menu and the button works best with the duracell, I have tried sanyo and surefire, neither with good results. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/knight.gif
 

sslavers

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i received my arc4 second last week and just got my arc4 back, due to the faulty switch, but ive had no problems with any of the other brands of batteries. they all work perfect. i absolutly love these lights.
 

Clifton Arnold

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I have an arc4+ second and have not had any trouble with the switch not working. I have been using the Li-ion rechargeables from J.S. Burlys. I had to mod the charger but I was one of the beta testers. And just so that you know Jon has been working on a new rechargeable 123 and he will be beta testing it soon. So if you want your arc4+ to run as cheaply as possible I recomend that you get signed up to be a beta tester with jon. He has a post on this in the dealers corner.
 

gromit

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Of my two Arc4 ver2 units, one worked perfectly the other had a issue that was resolved with-in a week. I don't have a problem with the clicker other than a little play in the rubber. If you want to try a bad switch get a Elektro Lumens MX-2, what a piece of junk switch on a otherwise OK flashlight, all I get from them is to pull the spring. Not like Arc who paid for shipping both ways to get the 4 fixed. Now that's customer service
 

yaesumofo

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Well I received a pair of arc 4 seconds (ver. 2) a couple of weeks ago.
One had a great beam and a lousy switch. The other just had a great beam.
On monday I sent the one with a bad switch back for repair. I received it back today. Wow fast. The switch is not as hard to work now and the switch has a little more take up than the old one. The real difference is the way the battery holder connects to the head. Instead of having a lip the two sections meet. a picture:
DSCN6635crsm.jpg

This is different form my first ARC4 second. Notice how it is smooth vs stepped?
I didn't notice this before. In my opinion this is a giant refinement of the design of the body of the light. It is nice this way.
Yaesumofo
 

PeLu

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Funny thing is (as mentioned before IMHO) that the picture for the Arc4 rev2 at Arc's very own website shows IMHO only the Rev.2 front end, but the Rev1 back.
Am I wrong?

And BTW, here it again states:
[ QUOTE ]
Power Range: 24dB in 15 settings with 1.5dB spacing

[/ QUOTE ] which does not fit together. So which of the three numbers is wrong?
 

RayT

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[ QUOTE ]
PeLu said:
Funny thing is (as mentioned before IMHO) that the picture for the Arc4 rev2 at Arc's very own website shows IMHO only the Rev.2 front end, but the Rev1 back.
Am I wrong?

And BTW, here it again states:
[ QUOTE ]
Power Range: 24dB in 15 settings with 1.5dB spacing

[/ QUOTE ] which does not fit together. So which of the three numbers is wrong?

[/ QUOTE ]

None. The numbers are correct if you do the math.

Off is 0dB, naturally. The lowest setting is 1.5dB. If you add 15 steps at 1.5dB you get 22.5dB. Add to that the lowest setting of 1.5dB and you get 24dB.

Remember that off is a power setting so you do get a 24dB range.
 

Likebright

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I received my Arc4+ R2 about a week ago and it seems to be just fine.
My original Arc4 had a switch that needs a guard to keep it from latching on in my pants pocket. Not so this one. The switch is "stiff" a definite asset! It keeps it from turning on until you want to turn it on.
This computer type switch isn't ever gona feel like a clicky and personally I like this feel better. You have to get used to it. But when you do it becomes very natural.
Mike
 

asdalton

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[ QUOTE ]
RayT said:
Off is 0dB, naturally. The lowest setting is 1.5dB. If you add 15 steps at 1.5dB you get 22.5dB. Add to that the lowest setting of 1.5dB and you get 24dB.


[/ QUOTE ]

If you do the calculation for decibels, you will find that "off" is negative infinity, not zero. Decibels are useful for describing relative changes in power, but not their absolute magnitudes. Even for sound, 0 dB is defined as a finite but very small value.
 

Ray_of_Light

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To my opinion, the battery should reside in a shuttle. With two coaxial springs providing mechanical tension and electrical contact. I would also coat the shuttle and the inner part of the battery tube with Teflon to reduce friction at minimum.
It is the only viable possibility to eliminate the Arc4+ problems related to the battery being part of the switch itself; as matter of fact, in this way, the battery is no longer a part of the switch!
Regards
Anthony
 

PeLu

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[ QUOTE ]
I said:
Power Range: 24dB in 15 settings with 1.5dB spacing

[/ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
RayT said:
None. The numbers are correct if you do the math.
Off is 0dB, naturally.

[/ QUOTE ]
As Asdalton already stated, this is wrong. No single setting (including off) has a dB value, only two of them in relation. That means, you may define one level as 0db (sencefully level 1) and then number the others. If you want to go any further into this, we should move from here.

I just want to know which one of these three numbers is the wrong one (or maybe it is even two of them). It is just a simple answer. Like other people want to know also the lumen rating, input current and see beamshots.
 
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