AAA UV Question

Hello All,
I have an Arc AAA UV, with the black HA3 finish, and the writing around the top of the body. My questions are, what version is this, older or newest, and what is the output. Just an observation, it didn't look like much light was coming out of this thing. Even in the dark it didn't look very bright at all, but it will still make things glow from accross a dark room.(15ft.) It also makes the light alot more visable to shine it on a white towel. My first UV, can you tell? Anyway, it's pretty cool, and any info. would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Brandon

Hey Brandon,

THe Arc is only my second UV. I got it here on B/S/T, and I understand it mine is the brighter, later version (and it's pretty dim looking). But all I have to compare it to is the COuntycomm UV, and though the Countycomm is much brighter and bluer in the visible spectrum, it sucks compared to the Arc.

The Arc makes things fluoresce way better than the coinlight. For example, on credit cards, the Arc makes everything clear, but with the coinlight, I have to hold the light at an angle and squint to make out the bird on my citibank visa card. The coinlight barely makes the strip on bills light up, but the Arc does so easily.

Also, the coinlight puts out a lot of blue light, which obscures whatever I'm looking at. I guess I need a pair of those orange goggles.

Well, I'll have more to say in a week or so, I've got an X5T-UV on the way from Meridian and Wingerr is gonna show me his UV 7 LED and 1 LED 385nm lights from ebay, too.

cheers
daloosh

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Noxiousbt said: it didn't look like much light was coming out of this thing. Even in the dark it didn't look very bright at all,

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That is actually the idea .-) A good UV lamp should have the lowest lumen/candlepower rating for a given output.

I'm happy that I got one of the earlier models with the Nichia LED (with 370-390nm), the cheaper Cree (?) LED with 405 nm would have been of no use for me (actually the longest wavelength UV starts at 400nm, so it gives only very little UV, this may bother you or not, depending on your use).

The earlier Arc-AAA UV used a Nichia NSHU590E LED, which comes in what I believe is a TO-18 metal can, and outputs 750uW (0.75mW) of energy at 370nm. This LED has a dim, whitish-purple appearance to it

Later Arc-AAA UV flashlights used a Cree Megabright LED, which comes in a standard 5mm epoxy package, and outputs no less than 10mW at 395-405nm. These will have a significantly brighter, reddish violet to whitish-bluish violet color (depending on peak wavelength) to them.

In both cases, the LED colors I described are when you're viewing the LED head-on, which is NOT recommended because long UVA and near-UV radiation is not that good for your eyes. A very brief exposure from a couple of feet away is OK though. By "very brief", I mean less than 1 second.

Hope this information is helpful.

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The_LED_Museum said:The earlier Arc-AAA UV used a Nichia NSHU590E LED, which comes in what I believe is a TO-18 metal can, and outputs 750uW (0.75mW) of energy at 370nm.

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Yes, Craig, I know, when I looked up the data then, it said 370-390nm and the 0.75mW output was for 10mA. AFAIK, it was driven a little bit higher in the Arc. Maybe Peter could tell us.

1mW at 370nm can be much more than 10mW at 405nm, depending on your use. All these cheap money check UV lights for 3 Euro or so are actually worthless for checking fluorescence.

There are two problems: the longer the wavelength, the less some flurescent substances 'glow' and the the 'UV' light also becomes more visible and 'overshines' the fluorescence. Quite remarkable in between 380 and 400 nm.

As Nichia has a new line of 365nm LEDs (even 100mW ones),
Or the RLU0408N65 with up to 7mW at 365nm (Craig, I'm shure, you also got the info from Roither)

I'm looking forward to a new UV-Arc.

Thank you all for the very helpfull information. Mine is definatly the older version, but it is mint condition and came with a matching, black, standard led head as well. What a deal. I am pretty impressed with the UV output, not bad for such a little guy. Like I said above, it will make things glow from across the room and thats good enough for me! Thanks again.
Brandon

I'm not quite sure I understand. Is the newer version the 405nm one? I'm after a UV head for my Arc AAA, but I do want a short wavelenth (385nm or less) to make it worthwhile. Which ones had that, and how can I make sure I ask for the right thing if I post on the B/S/T forum?

If nobody will sell me one (or trade for a RGB head) then I will consider modding the RGB head, but I don't know whether the drive circuitry is the same. Is it, or does the UV use some funky small current or something?

bindibadgi,
The older version has the sorter wave length. As for being able to tell older from newer, look for the older body style, ie.. circumferintial engraving around top end of body tube, ect. There is also some description of the difference in the look of the two versions of the light to the naked eye, posted above by The Led Museum, along with some other good technical information. I stumbled on to my Arc AAA UV by complete accident, and it turned out to be a real jewel. This is the all the information I can give you, and it is only to the best of my knowledge. Hope it helps.
Brandon

An easy way to tell the old and the new apart without turning them on is to look directly at the business-end.
The old style (with the shorter wavelength) will have an LED in a gold colored metal can, and the newer style (with the longer wavelength) will have an epoxy body LED, and will have a silvery color to it.