LongBow Micra - Hi/Lo Switch

Using Gadget_Lover's great spring MOD for Hi/Lo settings, is there a way to adapt it to work on the longbow with either the clicky or twiston tailcap?

Well, I've tried, but I can't get it to work. Apparently, the actual tailcap must seat into the body for a connection to be made. By time you've twisted the tailcap to be be tight enough for the body connection, it's already bypassed the resistor. Come on now.... one of you techy guys should be able to provide a Micra Hi/Lo switch rather easily.

I too would like to see a breakthough here /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--Bob

I think you would have to remove the anodize from the mating threads of the battery tube and the tail cap to provide electrical continuity as in the Arc LS.
But how to remove the anodize?

Brian

Send me one, and I'll see what can be done.

Daniel

Daniel,

I just noticed in Don McLeish's thread on the two stage E2 tailcap he's working on that he successfully used the same "parts" on a Longbow.

Don's comments

"Wayne and I want to get various components made so we can do our builds but also make these available for the DIY projects. In the case of these two stage switch components, modders will be able to take certain parts and use them in their own designs and modifications. *I have already used some of these parts to make a two stage switch for a LongBow*, SF classic LOTC retro fit and on a SF M6 tail cap."

So we now know that having a two stage on a Longbow is definately doable. When my Mini shows up next week I'd be happy to send the twistie tailcap along for some surgery /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Just let me know.

--Bob

If Don is already working in this there is no reason for me to duplicate his work. You'll really like his solution.

Daniel

Daniel,

Makes sense... it's just the waiting that's a killer!! LOL

--Bob

Daniel,

Well all may not be so rosey /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mecry.gif

Here's the latest from Don in his 2 stage E series switch thread:

"The two stage adaptation for the LongBow is a PITA with the existing tail switches! It might be cheaper to design a new one from scratch. I have a full plate right no so no promises! "

Oh well.......................... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif

--Bob

I think a spring or PCB solution like the Fire-Fly set up might be viable in the twisty tail cap. My one proto was a retro in place of the Kroll and it was the PITA. The boot sucks, IMHO and the fact that it was not retained by other than the compression in a tightened cap precludes a simple solution for a drop in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Any progress on this?

In looking at the twistie, it looks like you either need some sort of resistored ring that goes around the spring area, or you need to remove the anodizing (as mentioned above), and put a new spring type device in the center. I'm not sure how you'd suppress battery rattle in the latter case.

This brings up another issue. The micra relies on the anodizing to prevent electrical contact. How reliable is this? Could that fail as the threads wear?