Hotlips - to cut or not to cut

Hi all

The Hotlips' were designed so that original bulb post does not need to be cut, therefore allowing the flashlight to be returned back to its original crappy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif light output mode.

So how many people are still cutting the bulb post off? How many people have returned a Luxeon modded OA flashlight back to incancrapcent /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif mode?

You must vote before you can view the results? Lame. I don't own a hotlips, so I shouldnt' vote, so how am I supposed to see what's happening?

Hang on to your pants Tyler /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif, its my first poll! I can't seem to edit this to show poll results now.

I just built my first DD TWOL mod (love it) but for the time didn't have all the tools to cut the bulb post. so I settled with braking a cheap bulb and soldered the wires directly to it. and in fact it's great! no probs at all, I think I'll keep it this way in case I decide to go to 5 watts in the future.

Not blaming you specifically, it seems like the software should know better.

hotbeam, when modding the hotlips-C I don't actually cut the bulb post. I take apart the switch unit and the bulb post drops out. This was the case with both an old style 2C that required the sleeve on the Hotlips-C as well as a brand new one with the gag logo on the rubber button cover. However, I have been cutting off the long ground strip although I'm sure there would be some way to retain that so that the mod could be completely undone. Heatshrinking it might do the job.

I always remove the bulb post by spltting the switch also. But I would NEVER consider returning the light to Incan form WTH!

hotbeam, I to would not even consider reverting back to a ican bulb. Looks like you could just make them as a soldid slug. I wish I could get your C size ones without the focal post and just have a flat surface with the slightly raised part to center the led

I returned my 2C mag to indecent mode (3x123, 6 cell krypton, not quite as incan-crappy). I moved switch & all to a 3c. Before you ask, this was a black one, and the Hotlips was difficult to remove. Since I was planning on doing this from the beginning, I left room to slip a butter knife between the hotlips & the tube. Otherwise, I doubt if I could get it out without seperating it from the switch (cut the wires).
I only used the 2C temporarily because I couldn't locate a 3C for a few weeks...I've also modded one C bulb holder to a bi-pin socket - it's glued to the post sans guts. (I hope it will work with 2-4 amps). I'd like to find a replacement switch for more amps and 2 or 3 levels.
I bought an extra C switch and D switch to simplify changing them out for mods or restorations, if any. I'm hoping to fry a few mag switches with 20w & up mods. I do simply remove the pedestal on the Cs and I could put the parts back if needed. The D does need to be cut, and on both sizes I've been cutting the metal post that makes the negative connection - it gets in the way. Those come with the replacement switches anyway.

i'd vote to keep them the way they are (after all, that's how i designed them in the first place /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ).

the "hole" in the middle accomplishes several things. it allows the heatsink to be slid in without removal of the bulb post, it allows the bulb post to be used in the actual mod, and it reduces weight (slightly of course), at no expense of heatsinking. (well, i suppose you could argue that less mass = less heatsinking, but if anyone can detect a difference between the hole and no hole with even the most precise equipment, i'll be surprised)
the main purpose of the heatsink (hotlips especially, as this was their primary design function), is to take heat away from the luxeon and dissipate it to the outside of the light. as a result, the most important thing is contact area to the light body. filling in the hole would make no difference thermally speaking.

so we've got several benifits of keeping it in, and the only benifit i can think for taking it out would be "theoretic" thermal gain.

so....keep it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twakfl.gif

Thanks for the feedback.

One of the modifications I was considering was to lower the top recess area (along with the emitter post) by ~4-5mm and in the process, increasing the total height of the Hotlips by the 4-5mm. This does 3 things:

1. Protects the emitter when the emittered Hotlips is not in the OAC/D. You can also use it in candle mode safely.

2. It allows the OAC/D head with reflector to be screwed down more, making the head contact better.

3. With the increased height, increase thermal contact with the OAC/D and that is good.

The only down side is the need to remove the bulb stalk. This may limit the appeal to some modders with tools. Perhaps I can include a file with each order /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Anyway, comments?

Improvement is good. Roth /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twakfl.gif

A modder without a file or dremel is a contradiction in terms /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif. I'm all for any changes that make the Hotlips better. Progress requires sacrifice. Actually, permanently disabling a gaglite is a good thing. The only good gaglight, is a modded one. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

BTW, to enable the removal of the hotlips easy, I use the side of a file to put a small slot on either side of the head end of the body. The slot is just wide and deep enough to fit in a flat head screwdriver. It does not cut into the threading. The slot allows for excellent leverage when removing the Hotlips with minimal scratching. Image below shows a Hotlips-C with the slot on one side of the body. I do the same thing on a D body as well.

That's a good idea Bal.

hotty, i'm all for lowering the emitter, in fact, i was the one who suggested it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twakfl.gif

the same for making the lips thicker.

i don't have a hotlips c handy, but would is there not enough space to lower the pedistal without removing the hole?

another thing the whole does is it allows use of converters. an ecan and badboy/madmax/downboy/whatever should work vey well. (especially if the hole diameter were changed slightly to better accomodate the ecan.

basically, i'm all behind the other changes, but i want to keep the whole!

What Roth said. Definitely keep the hole on both D and C versions. Would also like to see the hole slightly wider on the hotlips-C so that an ecan will drop in.

Yes yes Roth, you did mention it... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/whoopin.gif

The bottom recess would not be removed. It has proven to be very handy in a certain X mod /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif and any regulated mods. The diameter could easily be increased.

well good then! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

keep the hole, shorten the pedistal, make it out of solid silver, and make the lips fatter /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Don't be silly, silver's too expensive. Just anodise them in a range of colours to match the M@g bodies /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif