\'Over-drive switch\' MOD for the CC1W driver\'s
I started using Georges80's drivers, I like them alot!!
Started with a Uflex & a CC1W, great products!!
Got the Uflex running my 5watt LS...nice...
So I started playing around with the CC1W...to cut a long story short, by changing the 'sense' resistor you can change the driver's output...
So I quickly whipped up a circuit, fired it off to George, to make sure all was good...
Current = 1.21 * 10 / (1 + R3/R2)
(above is using the values for the NEW CC1W, On the actual CC1W PCB, I had, R2 was a little different..)
From George's info... When R2 = 5.1 we get ~354mA. From my calulations When R2 = 7.2 we get ~489mA
So you have in this circuit:
Sw on = 5.1
Sw off = 7.2
The circuit remains active at all times. You could tweek it either side, depending on your Max current...but you get the idea.
Yep, he said "it will work just fine, Just make sure the circuit is never broken..."
As this will work, I thought, I will add another level...giving 3.
So into the workshop I went, did all the maths, made the mod on to a SPDT w center off, then ran the two wires down to R2.
First I hooked her up & gave her a run...R2 = 16.45k = 490mA, 11.25k was the one that came out so that is 350mA ect...she runs very smoothly...
As this was a proto, I use a lower quality LS on a new heatsink design (needed for the new housing)... found a few resistors & did the whole thing...
All wired to a SPDT (center off) sw, 16k parallel with 3.3k & 33k giving 440mA, 310mA, 80mA to the LED, on my 6.47v 2000mAhr pack, I get 300mA, 200mA, 50mA with runtime of around 6.6hr, 10hr, 40hr...so for a first proto, its good, I will tweek the 3 levels a bit, but that is about it...
The low beam is still super bright due to the spotie type beam of the 30mm, I even think the new heatsink design will take a 3 watt...but hey, I think I will just use a over-driven 'R' bin 1w...
Anyway its a super simple circuit that can be built on to the back of the switch & can be used for the whole CC*W series...
Any questions please let me know as I would be happy to help...
Enjoy
ktronik
PLEASE NOTE: Do not do this mod if you can't work on SMT!! R2 is really small & its easy to lift / bridge a track if done wrong...The CC1W is 500mA MAX
I used a SM iron @TEMP 365c.
I started using Georges80's drivers, I like them alot!!
Started with a Uflex & a CC1W, great products!!
Got the Uflex running my 5watt LS...nice...
So I started playing around with the CC1W...to cut a long story short, by changing the 'sense' resistor you can change the driver's output...
So I quickly whipped up a circuit, fired it off to George, to make sure all was good...
Current = 1.21 * 10 / (1 + R3/R2)
(above is using the values for the NEW CC1W, On the actual CC1W PCB, I had, R2 was a little different..)
From George's info... When R2 = 5.1 we get ~354mA. From my calulations When R2 = 7.2 we get ~489mA
So you have in this circuit:
Sw on = 5.1
Sw off = 7.2
The circuit remains active at all times. You could tweek it either side, depending on your Max current...but you get the idea.
Yep, he said "it will work just fine, Just make sure the circuit is never broken..."
As this will work, I thought, I will add another level...giving 3.
So into the workshop I went, did all the maths, made the mod on to a SPDT w center off, then ran the two wires down to R2.
First I hooked her up & gave her a run...R2 = 16.45k = 490mA, 11.25k was the one that came out so that is 350mA ect...she runs very smoothly...
As this was a proto, I use a lower quality LS on a new heatsink design (needed for the new housing)... found a few resistors & did the whole thing...
All wired to a SPDT (center off) sw, 16k parallel with 3.3k & 33k giving 440mA, 310mA, 80mA to the LED, on my 6.47v 2000mAhr pack, I get 300mA, 200mA, 50mA with runtime of around 6.6hr, 10hr, 40hr...so for a first proto, its good, I will tweek the 3 levels a bit, but that is about it...
The low beam is still super bright due to the spotie type beam of the 30mm, I even think the new heatsink design will take a 3 watt...but hey, I think I will just use a over-driven 'R' bin 1w...
Anyway its a super simple circuit that can be built on to the back of the switch & can be used for the whole CC*W series...
Any questions please let me know as I would be happy to help...
Enjoy
ktronik
PLEASE NOTE: Do not do this mod if you can't work on SMT!! R2 is really small & its easy to lift / bridge a track if done wrong...The CC1W is 500mA MAX
I used a SM iron @TEMP 365c.