'Over-drive switch' MOD for the CC1W driver's

ktronik

Enlightened
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Oct 12, 2003
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Location
Australia
\'Over-drive switch\' MOD for the CC1W driver\'s

I started using Georges80's drivers, I like them alot!!

Started with a Uflex & a CC1W, great products!!

Got the Uflex running my 5watt LS...nice...

So I started playing around with the CC1W...to cut a long story short, by changing the 'sense' resistor you can change the driver's output...

So I quickly whipped up a circuit, fired it off to George, to make sure all was good...

cc1wmod.jpg

Current = 1.21 * 10 / (1 + R3/R2)

(above is using the values for the NEW CC1W, On the actual CC1W PCB, I had, R2 was a little different..)
From George's info... When R2 = 5.1 we get ~354mA. From my calulations When R2 = 7.2 we get ~489mA

So you have in this circuit:

Sw on = 5.1
Sw off = 7.2

The circuit remains active at all times. You could tweek it either side, depending on your Max current...but you get the idea.


Yep, he said "it will work just fine, Just make sure the circuit is never broken..."

As this will work, I thought, I will add another level...giving 3.

So into the workshop I went, did all the maths, made the mod on to a SPDT w center off, then ran the two wires down to R2.

First I hooked her up & gave her a run...R2 = 16.45k = 490mA, 11.25k was the one that came out so that is 350mA ect...she runs very smoothly...

As this was a proto, I use a lower quality LS on a new heatsink design (needed for the new housing)... found a few resistors & did the whole thing...

All wired to a SPDT (center off) sw, 16k parallel with 3.3k & 33k giving 440mA, 310mA, 80mA to the LED, on my 6.47v 2000mAhr pack, I get 300mA, 200mA, 50mA with runtime of around 6.6hr, 10hr, 40hr...so for a first proto, its good, I will tweek the 3 levels a bit, but that is about it...

The low beam is still super bright due to the spotie type beam of the 30mm, I even think the new heatsink design will take a 3 watt...but hey, I think I will just use a over-driven 'R' bin 1w...

Anyway its a super simple circuit that can be built on to the back of the switch & can be used for the whole CC*W series...

Any questions please let me know as I would be happy to help...

Enjoy

ktronik



PLEASE NOTE: Do not do this mod if you can't work on SMT!! R2 is really small & its easy to lift / bridge a track if done wrong...The CC1W is 500mA MAX

I used a SM iron @TEMP 365c.
 

LEDmodMan

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Re: \'Over-drive switch\' MOD for the CC1W driver\'s

ktronic,
Great 1st post!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif Please let me be the first to say welcome to CPF!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif

Funny you should post about this idea, especially with George's borad. I had something similar in mind.

I just got one of George's CC5W boards to use in my car dome light. I'm really impressed with these boards! They're smaller than I expected them to be. I'm thinking I'll drive two Lux III's in parallel (maybe in series, still haven't decided) with mine. I've even given some thought of doing two series sets of two LS's in parallel (four LS's total), but that may just be too much light (plus it will be drawing more power than the stock 5W lamp, which I would rather not do).

I have also given some thought to adding a simple micro SPST switch with an additional resistor to R2 so that I can dim the light when I want to.

I think I'll run it at 1A initially (500mA to each LS) for about 100 Lumens, with another resistor on the switch to drop it down to about 300mA each for 65 Lumens.

Anyway, have fun here at CPF! There is a lot to learn here, and you'll be amazed at the wealth of knowledge and the diversity of where that knowledge lies (we've even just recently become a baby gift recommending forum due to a thread in the Cafe).

Oh, and one other thing, hang on to your wallet!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/broke.gif
 

ktronik

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 12, 2003
Messages
779
Location
Australia
Re: \'Over-drive switch\' MOD for the CC1W driver\'s

Hey thanks!!

Its great to be aboard...
I am a CPF virgin, so be gentle.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Yep, George's stuff rocks!! & he is a great guy to boot...

BTW: all resistors are in the '*k ohm range' i.e 7.2k & 18k.

You torch guy's out there, have had the run of the roost for a long time now...its time to make a little room for some bike dudes... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I make super long runtime systems for 12 & 24 hr bike races...(low beam up to 80hr runtime)

I am talking:

Super lite, remote LS units mounted to the helmet or the bar...using remote NiMh battery paks.

I have the proto's for the bar & helmet unit done... 3 level output running dual LS in 1 or 3 watt

The headunit on the helmet is not even 20gm's with a lowered footprint on the heatsink due to the convection cooled finned heatsink design... on the head you can have 2/ 1 or 3watters or a 5 watt, (hey we are talking longruntime here)

All these will be driven from CC*W drivers (or the NEW Nflex PCB's when they come out)

The long runtime systems will be run from 12v 2000mAhr NiMh AA packs with the CC*W to keep the weight down.


The high power systems will be run from the NEW 'FATMAN' PCB's, so I can use all 6v nightstick type paks for the dual LS units. More power shorter rides...

I have been building bike lighting systems for over 10 years now, but due to the huge 24hr race, (over 1500 riders, that is a lot of lights!!), we now need super lite with super long runtime...

All the units will be 'plug & play' just plug it into the battery & away you go...

So if any smart cooke's out thier want to make a super lite aloy head unit for bike stuff, BRING IT ON...

As most of my first proto units will NOT be completly aloy, to keep it affordable to us poor bikers, (hey the bike cost all the money, $2000-5000 just for a race bike). The PRO aloy heads, will come in time, they wil be super stripped down for the weight weenes...& super tough as well

Thats the plan stan!!!

Enjoy

Ktronik
 
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