I'm looking to buy a new Nissan Titan Truck in the next couple weeks. What percentage should I expect to get off of MSRP? There was a site with dealer scams and tutorials somebody posted a while back but I can't find it now. Anybody have it?
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New Car Buying Help
- Thread starter tkl
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
www.carbuyingtips.com
also TMV on www.edmunds.com.
that first site, it is long, but spend the time, worth it in the end, (got 2500 off last time around for me).
also TMV on www.edmunds.com.
that first site, it is long, but spend the time, worth it in the end, (got 2500 off last time around for me).
DieselDave
Super Moderator,
Edmonds is good. The Titan has cooled off in the market over the last few months which equates to better deals. I would think you can get one without much of a hassle for $300 over invoice. Much less than that and it turns into a mini war. Just call a dealer and ask that question? Tell him if he will sell it for that price you will be right down to pick one out and take delivery. Everyone appreciates a painless deal.
Nissan also announced 1000 rebate today on titans in order to meet 100k yearly sales targets. finally, one suggestion is to use websites to email the fleet manager vs walking up, since fleet sales make money on volume, and will price accordingly. when we bought our car, i had a fleet manager qoute, which then i proceeded to show the sales manager of walk-ins, and he immediately called fleet and asked them, and when told this was the price quoted, said they'd honor it because it was discussed between me and fleet, but he'd *NEVER* sell it to at that cost to a walk-in.
of course the best way to save a whole lot of $ is to buy a 2 yr old truck. you'll save about 25-40%!
However, your $, your choice. Consumer Reports also has quite a bit of info on new purchases as well as dealer pricing info.
However, your $, your choice. Consumer Reports also has quite a bit of info on new purchases as well as dealer pricing info.
One thing you should NOT do is get caught up in the "How much do you want your payment to be per month" DONT let them sucker you into that. You should always buy a car based on the TOTAL price, NOT the monthly payments. Do your research first and see what others are paying for that car in your area. When you go in to negotiate a price shoot for slightly lower than what others are paying in your area. Get the price down as close to what others are paying in your area and the monthly payments will work out to be whatever they work out to be.
Most of all be ready to just walk away if they don't get down to what you want to pay for the car.
Most of all be ready to just walk away if they don't get down to what you want to pay for the car.
Kaseri, you're right, walking out is one of the best things I've done. They will probably even call you a week later to make the deal. It's happened to me before.
Most care salesman are scum, I hate dealing with them. The last time I bought a new vehicle I went out in the sticks. I asked them up front what I could get the truck I was interested in for. They shot me straight. I should probably do that again.
Most care salesman are scum, I hate dealing with them. The last time I bought a new vehicle I went out in the sticks. I asked them up front what I could get the truck I was interested in for. They shot me straight. I should probably do that again.
Samoan
Enlightened
From my own experiences both buying vehicles and helping members here at the Credit Union.
#1 Let them know that they are allowed to "Check with their manager." X number of times. Afterall, they may need a cigarette break. We all know they aren't checking with ANYONE. I like to tell them that if they aren't authorized to do any real negotiating to please bring me someone who is. I'm not there to play games.
#2 Let them know that if they start any "4-square" nonsense you are walking out. The only purpose of the 4-square is to confuse the buyer into finally agreeing to a price.
#3 Be very careful of the limitations on some of the "great" 0% deals. They are often more expensive in the long-run than your basic CU/Bank financing.
Set up your own financing. The dealer builds in a spread and it *WILL* cost you money. It is more convenient tho if that's more important to you.
#4 As kaseri mentioned, know what the total you are willing to pay is. From there decide what it important to you; term, rate, or payment. If you really need a particular payment you may need to go to a longer term.
#5 Avoid, "No Payments for a Year", Leases, and Balloon plans like the plague. To say they are trouble is a mild understatement.
-Fern
#1 Let them know that they are allowed to "Check with their manager." X number of times. Afterall, they may need a cigarette break. We all know they aren't checking with ANYONE. I like to tell them that if they aren't authorized to do any real negotiating to please bring me someone who is. I'm not there to play games.
#2 Let them know that if they start any "4-square" nonsense you are walking out. The only purpose of the 4-square is to confuse the buyer into finally agreeing to a price.
#3 Be very careful of the limitations on some of the "great" 0% deals. They are often more expensive in the long-run than your basic CU/Bank financing.
Set up your own financing. The dealer builds in a spread and it *WILL* cost you money. It is more convenient tho if that's more important to you.
#4 As kaseri mentioned, know what the total you are willing to pay is. From there decide what it important to you; term, rate, or payment. If you really need a particular payment you may need to go to a longer term.
#5 Avoid, "No Payments for a Year", Leases, and Balloon plans like the plague. To say they are trouble is a mild understatement.
-Fern
If you are looking for a discount off of MSRP, you will pay too much. You should be pricing based on invoice. Many models will sell at or below invoice now (plus you keep any rebate). Yes, they still make money when selling below invoice. They actually pad the invoice with profit. I don't know if you can get a Titan below invoice, because this varies somewhat from model to model.
When you have decided on exactly what you want (model, options, color) call several dealerships and ask to speak to the fleet sales manager. Better yet, fax them your request for an offer. Only the fleet sales manager will give you a straight, no-hassle, low price. Never, ever buy from a car salesperson. Also refuse to pay for any dealer options such as rustproofing, scotch-guarding, pin-striping, overpriced floor mats, etc. even if "they have already been installed." And be careful of documentation fees, tag and title fees, financing application fees, etc. Dealerships can really gouge you on miscellaneous charges even when the base price is good.
Just remember that dealerships exist for only one purpose: To rob you.
When you have decided on exactly what you want (model, options, color) call several dealerships and ask to speak to the fleet sales manager. Better yet, fax them your request for an offer. Only the fleet sales manager will give you a straight, no-hassle, low price. Never, ever buy from a car salesperson. Also refuse to pay for any dealer options such as rustproofing, scotch-guarding, pin-striping, overpriced floor mats, etc. even if "they have already been installed." And be careful of documentation fees, tag and title fees, financing application fees, etc. Dealerships can really gouge you on miscellaneous charges even when the base price is good.
Just remember that dealerships exist for only one purpose: To rob you.
Samoan
Enlightened
4-Square.
Old-school confusion.
The salesman will draw a 2x2 grid. Put the price they want (MSRP) in one corner. They will put your first offer in another corner. Then the numbers and options start flying. It's their way of "putting it in writing" while never agreeing to anything. It seems harmless enough but it can really confuse and frustrate a buyer into paying too much for a car.
One other thing I forgot in my previous posts. An aftermarket warranty can be a good deal, but never if you get it through the dealership. Call your local Credit Union if you want one. You will be suprised how much less they can cost.
Old-school confusion.
The salesman will draw a 2x2 grid. Put the price they want (MSRP) in one corner. They will put your first offer in another corner. Then the numbers and options start flying. It's their way of "putting it in writing" while never agreeing to anything. It seems harmless enough but it can really confuse and frustrate a buyer into paying too much for a car.
One other thing I forgot in my previous posts. An aftermarket warranty can be a good deal, but never if you get it through the dealership. Call your local Credit Union if you want one. You will be suprised how much less they can cost.
Darkcobra
Enlightened
Fleet is definately the way to go, paid $600 above invoice for a ($21,000) 2004 Nissan Altima. Definately a better price than what others I know paid... We never finance through the dealer, makes the purchase that much more easier. Get a good price, pay and go home happy.
http://www.edmunds.com/new/2004/nissan/titan/index.html?tid=edmunds.n.mmindex.popular.num2.1.nissan*
there you go, click the model you want, and you'll be presented with MSRP, and Invoice, along with TMV (you need zip code for that).
there you go, click the model you want, and you'll be presented with MSRP, and Invoice, along with TMV (you need zip code for that).
Tkl - there are services that will give you the invoice for any car. Consumer Reports offers one. I think Edmunds.com has one. There is a fee for the Consumer Reports service.
I just negotiate with the dealer in terms of "invoice plus x dollars" or "invoice minus x dollars" and ask to see their invoice prior to inking the deal. They don't have to show it to you, but if they negotiated the deal based on invoice and then you ask to see the invoice and they seem reluctant, then you have to wonder why they are reluctant.
And yes, it is possible to alter or fake an invoice, but it takes time. If you have a good idea of what the invoice should be to begin with and they present you with what appears to be the original invoice at the time you ask to see it, you can be pretty confident that it is legitimate.
I just negotiate with the dealer in terms of "invoice plus x dollars" or "invoice minus x dollars" and ask to see their invoice prior to inking the deal. They don't have to show it to you, but if they negotiated the deal based on invoice and then you ask to see the invoice and they seem reluctant, then you have to wonder why they are reluctant.
And yes, it is possible to alter or fake an invoice, but it takes time. If you have a good idea of what the invoice should be to begin with and they present you with what appears to be the original invoice at the time you ask to see it, you can be pretty confident that it is legitimate.
keithhr
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have been on a car forum for 5 years, go to Edmunds, find out invoice price, research what a hold back is, it's a percentage that he dealer gets just for inventoring the car from the manufacturer. Holdback is usually around 3%, different for each manufacturer, a $20,000 truck has a holdback of $600 which is additional profit for dealer, so if you bought at invoice price, the dealer would still make some type of profit.Since it's getting to the end of the model year, you should offer close to the invoice price, call around, someone will accept an offer. Next, pre-qualify for a loan on line so you eliminate dealer financing in case they plan on ripping you off. Contact a number of dealers, I guarantee you you can get one close to invoice price. Never negotiate down from msrp, but start at invoice price.
I have read of 100's of customer negotiations like I have outlined above. If you are trading in a vehicle it complicates things a bit, but you can also get TMC (true market value) from the edmunds site as well, they will list tmc for sale by owner, or trade in values based upon condition of car. Of course this is just my opinion.
I have read of 100's of customer negotiations like I have outlined above. If you are trading in a vehicle it complicates things a bit, but you can also get TMC (true market value) from the edmunds site as well, they will list tmc for sale by owner, or trade in values based upon condition of car. Of course this is just my opinion.
