Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thread

Hi guys,

I would like to try to focus the discussions of resistor values for the various battery and converter combinations in this thread.

For newcommers, the Aleph Tail Cap Switch consists of a guarded aluminium tail cap and the interior two stage switch module. The switch module is shown below:

\

This module can be fitted into both the SF LOTC tail cap (Z52) style as well as the E series (Z57) clickie style. There is more, off-forum information HERE .

Components can be purchased from the Sandwich Shoppe and I am happy to build completed switches for those who would like them. There will be a thread for ordering complete, ready to go switches here in the forum.

For those of you who have found viable solutions with these switches in regards to battery and driver configurations, please post your findings here. For those of you looking for solutions, please post your questions here if you have not seen the answers already posted.

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Other than the pushbutton of my McE2S tail cap being so hard to push down (especially to activate the second stage) I love it to death! Any ideas on how to soften up the action of it?

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

lubrication, making sure there are no burrs on the retaining ring, and softer spring. Only things I can think of. Start with the lube for sure!

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Bushman,
One way to confirm that the retaining O-ring is not part of the problem is to pop the switch module out of the tail cap and simply remove the rear retaining O-ring from the module and re install the module in cap and cap on light. If the high level is now easier to activate, the retaining O-ring is likely jamming against the rear of the boot nut or a nylon burr on the nut. These nuts were expensive to have machined and yet they fall well short of ideal; marginal at best. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif I have since commited to payng for the tooling of an injection mold and hope to be switching over to a molded nut that will not require the tedious attention required by these original nuts. Functionally and structurally, the original nuts are fine, once they have been counter sunk and deburred.

Dang, another point that needs to be brought up, especially for you DIY'ers getting these components from the shoppe! The resistor PCB usually has a nub on it where the router parted the piece from the board without completely carvingafull circle. This nub needs to be filed off or it can catch and partially bind on the threads in the tail cap. If you feel with your finger around the perimeter of the resistor PCB you can often detect this nub even if it is not real visible. It seems that it is almost always adjacent to one of the vias (holes) that electrically connect the two surfaces of the PCB.

The retaining O-ring's only function is really to provide a partial LockOut of the high level in the case of it being used on a non guarded SF cap. Even here, it isn't really a sure Lock Out and anyone can remove the retaning O-ring if so inclined. Since you don't remove the tail cap for battery exchange, there is no great need for the switch module to be retained within the cap. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

I just bought a tailcap from the sandwich shoppe. when I get it, will it be ready to use on my SF body, or will I have to do the guts too?

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Wildcat,
I have not had the time to see how Wayne and Cindy have these parts offered. My guess is that you may not have ordered all that you need for a complete switch. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Darnit! I thought I was getting a functional tailcap for 15 bucks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rant.gif

They need better descriptions of the stuff on the shoppe. Most of the descriptions are VERY vague, especially for beginner flashaholics like myself.

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Wildcat,
You can gut your SF LOTC tail cap and transfer the components into the Aleph tailcap for a functional tailcap but I am not clear on what your objectives are.

I agree that the shoppe is not easy to navigate nor is it written to the extent that a newcommer could esily pick up on what's what. On the otherhand, the amount of time required to set the shoppe up as a "stand alone" resource would be daunting and likely put many to sleep when they came to to it with specific needs in mind and knowledge of what they were looking for. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

In general, issues with the shoppe and its contents need to be addressed in the shoppe forum. I am just one of many suppliers to the shoppe and am not involved in its layout or control.

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Just wanted to mention that my units didn't switch off again once activated in momentary-high.
The problem was simply not enough lube on the main o-ring, now everything is fine. SHould have tried that *before* fumbling with those retaining nuts ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
...just in case anybody else will experience this ...
bk

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Any thought's of making a McLux style version of this switch?

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Don,

Is the black jam nut the new one or old one?

Thanks!

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

The new jam nut is black. There were also some modified black SF jam nuts used in some of the mods.

FlashlightOCD, I am not sure what you mean by McLux style version of this switch. The Kroll switch requires a substantial guard extend past it. These switches do not. I have a few tail cap ideas as well as battery tube variations but I am not in any position to do anything beyond some prototypes at this point.

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Don,
I'm having a problem- I ordered an Aleph tailcap, McE2S kit with 15 ohm board, boot, and spring from The Shoppe for a KL4/E1E combo. Unfortunately, the kit arrived with 2 buttons and no main body, so, 'till I exchange the extra button for a body with Wayne, I pulled the McE2S kit out of my E2D PR-917 so I could try out the Aleph tailcap on a E1E/KL4 combo. I swapped the 60 ohm board from the E2D with the 15 ohm from the kit with the missing main body and installed it in the Aleph tailcap. Screwed it ont the E1E/KL4 and there's a problem: No low level. Tried several times using the E2D tailcap as well as the Aleph and still no low. Tried it in the PR-917 and no lower level. Swapped out the 15 ohm board and tried a 30 ohm board, and it works fine in both tailcaps and with both lights, although too too dim on low for the E1E/KL4 to be useful. There was some paint/nail polish on the resistors on the 15 ohm board, so I scraped that off and lightly sanded the surface of the resistors, but it still doesn't work in any combo on low. Both lights go straight to high. Any Ideas, or should I send back the board and wait for a new one.

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Received my tailcap today--wow, that is rad. But it would not work "right out of the box" on my L4/Pila. The spring is/was too short, and the pila's nipple deficiency didn't help either. But a simple blob of solder on the L4 head-contact solved the problem. Thanks, McGizmo for inventing neat stuff--keep 'em coming.

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Mike,
It sounds like your 15 ohm resistor PCB has a short?!? Can you take an ohm meter and verify 15 ohms from the inside ring to the outside ring? You can take the switch modules out of the tail cap and confirm function by pushing them into the tail of the tube. When the PCB contacts the lip of the tube you should get low. Pushing the button until it contacts the topside of the PCB should then give you high. I don't know what is wrong with your 15 ohm PCB but something is?!?!

ubermensch,
Glad you got it sorted out! You can also pull the spring past its memory and deform it into a longer spring if necessary but I haven't run into that need in other than one goofy mod I was messing with.

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Don, I can't get a reading from the inside ring to the outside ring at all- just an OL reading, and trying the switch w/o tailcap doesn't give me a low either w/ the 15 ohm board, though it works fine w/ the other boards. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif Looks like there must be a short or something.

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Mike,
I had assumed a short but now it sounds like an open. You aren't getting any continuity until the resistor circuit is being bypassed. It sounds like your 15 ohm PCB is DOA. I am sure Wayne will make all this right as soon as he is aware of the problem and can get replacements/ corrections to you!

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

OK- thanks for the info Don. I tested a spare 30 ohm board and it reads right at 30, but the 15 ohm gives me an overload reading. I e-mailed Wayne but it's a holiday weekend. I have to send him back the extra button anyway to exchange for a body for the switch. If it's not one thing it's one thing.

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Don,

When we order the switch from the shoppe after choosing the resistor, does it come assembled or in separate pieces?

Please correct me if I'm wrong. In order to make a complete tailcap switch for the Aleph, aside from the switch, I will need:

1. rubber boot
2. contact spring
3. allen wrench (if the switch is not assembled)

Is the allen wrench a standard wrench that can be bought in hardware stores? I have a whole set of them of different sizes but I'm not sure if it is usable in this tail cap switch.

Thanks.

Re: Official Aleph Tail Cap Switch Discussion Thre

Billson,
I really don't know how Wayne and Cindy are packaging the switch components and cap. Just took a look and it seems that the McE2S DIY kit comes with everything but the tail cap itself and the rubber boot which you would need to make a complete tail cap switch. I don't know if the parts are assembled or not. You need a 3/32" allen wrench for the screw. It is a common size and usually included in the sets.

Hope this helps.