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Fine tuning my Mc E2S

cy

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Fine tuning my Mc E2S

I installed the Mc E2S kit in my X3T's Z52 LOTC. used the stock oring and didn't realize it needed to be lubed. 1st problem encountered was switch action was too limited to allow hi until low was engaged.

Tried to remove switch assembly to an avail. beat it, stuck in a vise etc. still stuck. OK remove bottom assembly and drilled two small holes in plastic locking ring.

Ok after some cussing removed the locking ring and switch assembly. All is well. matched oring until right size to allow better range of movement.

Next problem: to turn off light required unscrewing tailcap into an almost unsecured position. Also almost a 360 degree turn was required to go from low to high.

Solution was to insert a thin custom washer under the circuit board. This raise the contact point of board and reduces the gap between low and high. washer is only .015in

the thin washer needed to be clipped to allow room for two resisters.

End result is Tailcap rests more secure, now tailcap engages low to high in 180 degrees and low and high is easily accessable from off position.

Edit: after doing this mod with the washer, it dawn upon me that sanding .015 off top of tube would do the same thing. only you can remove the washer if you don't like it.


Edit: recommended way to do this mod is to sand down post. Go slow... you can always remove more material VS adding a washer to build up like above.

I prefer ending up with 1/2 turn from low to high, but others are prefering 1/4 turn from low to high.

your call...


Mce2s mod.jpg
 

McGizmo

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CY,
SOrry you had some trouble there but I like your solutions. I had considered closing the gap between Low and High but with the tolerances in the machined parts, I was concerned about the gap getting too tight. You are right about reducing the the height of the post on the main body as a sure way of reducing the gap between high and low.
 

cy

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fine tuning by lightly sanding post is a better solution. if you go too deep, add a thin washer to reverse.

I'm leaving my switch alone. Action now feels simular to L1-PR-T switch.
 

McGizmo

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Tyler,
If you want to "close the gap" between the button rim and the top of the PCB which makes your "high" contact, you can either shorten the height of the the post or tube that the PCB slides up and down on, or you can carefully deepen the hole that the post goes into.
 

cy

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Sanding the post is the cleanest way to go. But sand very slowly. .015in or aprox 4 sheets of typewriter paper is all you need to remove.

I would go even less and try for fit.
 

McGizmo

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The key is to have enough displacement or increase in required pressure to insure that one can easily select low or high without accidentally shifting into high, inadvertantly. As it has turned out, I believe the aditional force in compressing both the contact spring as well as the PCB stand off spring does allow for a reduced physical displacement from the original design. However, given the possible variations in the tolerance stack, I don't think I will change the dimension call out on the components. This is not to mention that there are probably already more of these components made than will ever be used! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif I leave it to the individual to fine tune their switch as they desire. It is always easier to remove material than add it back!
 

cy

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a possible solution for parts already on hand. make a go/no-go guage or use digital calipers. lightly sand to fit.
 

NetMage

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I tried the washer but didn't realize it needed to be conductive at first /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

So I replaced it with the stiff wire from a twist tie wrapped around the post beneath the resistor board. Made the switch go from off to high in 180 degrees and much easier to use.

Thanks, cy!
 

cy

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almost forgot about this thread /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

recommended way to do mod is sand post down. go slow.. you can always take off more material. VS pita of adding thickness back via washer.

first post edited:

mce2s fix.JPG


mce2s fix 5.JPG
 

AngelEyes

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Does this take care of the "hard-to-press-and-hold" 2-stage button? Seems my Mc2ES is painful to press and hold for any longer than 5 secs on the second stage. Or is it just me?
 

McGizmo

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John_KK,
The "hair trigger" does make it much easier to get to "high" with less spring compression and consequently less force.
 

Lips

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I just ordered a FT for a light. Have not received it yet but I think I read somewhere that the FT's were more of a hair trigger than some of the other Mc E2s. Is that correct or incorrect.

Also in the picture above with the sandpaper, I assume that is the tube that would need to be filed. You know what happens when you make assumptions! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/whoopin.gif

Thanks
 

Lips

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Update My FT looked a little different than the pictures above?

My FT was so uncomfortable to use on the High setting I took it off my flash light. Way too hard to press and hold for any length of time.I took a chance, played with it for an hour, cut down both springs (large one a lot,small one very-very little). Now it is a hair trigger and very soft on low and high.

Can't live without it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif
 

McGizmo

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Lips,
The FT should have a hair trigger main body. From your description, it sounds as if you may have inadvertantly got a regular main body. Your's is the first complaint I am aware of of the FT being difficult to operate. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

At any rate, glad you were able to tweak it to your satisfaction! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

cognitivefun

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Here's what I did. I have a McE2S regular style, that lets my L4 stand candle-stick mode. I cut the big spring down a bit at a time. Now the first stage comes on very easily, hair trigger, perfect. The all-on stage is still quite difficult although easier than before (white thumb syndrome /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif )

What should I do? Continue cutting the spring down, or something else?

Thank you!
 

cy

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don't cut the spring down at all.

sand the post down only, very slowly. you'll need a feeler gauge. look at the picture, it shows you where to measure and what thickness guage to use.
 

cognitivefun

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[ QUOTE ]
cy said:
don't cut the spring down at all.

sand the post down only, very slowly. you'll need a feeler gauge. look at the picture, it shows you where to measure and what thickness guage to use.

[/ QUOTE ]

I can't make head or tail of this photo (no pun intended).

If I take the spring of, there is a little post inside the larger metal circle. Is this the post I should sand down a little bit?
 
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