Junk yard direct drive LS light

dat2zip

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 5, 2002
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That's a coool light!
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You work looks a lot nicer than what I did
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edited later:

I understand the mod1 picture, but, mod2 and mod3 appear to have some DC/DC converter? Could you elaborate?
 

dat2zip

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 5, 2002
Messages
3,420
Location
Bay Area
Darell,

Try sending it direct to [email protected]


Dang that Yahoo. I paid them for the pop service access. I hope they didn't unplug me.

edited... I just sent email and it bounces when I try it.
 

Darell

Flashaholic
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Nov 14, 2001
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LOCO is more like it.
Thanks Wayne.

Now I've sent it to three address for you. At this point I wish the message were important enough to warranty all this excitement
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Sorry if you get it multiple times...
 

moraino

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Jan 20, 2002
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447
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B.C. Canada
DAT2ZIP,

Sorry for the late return. For some reason whatever I posted didn't go through. This time I type in the notepad first just in case.

First, it took me a long time searching for the right mini switch in the store as well as Internet. None will fit the need. By accident I found 6 slidding switches in the parts bin which I purchased many years ago for $2 and they work.

I cut a cct board same width as batt slot but about half an inch short. After drilling hole for 2 switch legs and resistor of choice I etched the circuit path and then got them soldered. Add two small piece of boards on both end as ENDS then insert it to the battery space. The spring will keep it there securely.

The heaksink is a must because 3 NiMh when fresh will draw almost 1A. It's from a Pentium 90 CPU heatsink. It has fairly TALL pins and a THICK base. I saw it to 4 parts and tap 2 holes for use with 4-40 screws to fix the LS heatsink to it.

Use a small piece of paper and fold a small square tray just enough to fit the pins of heatsink in pins down position. So we can pour the epoxy into it to about 4 mm in hight more or less. Grind the paper off when dry. Put some black paint on if you want. Break enough space close to center of the epoxy side to let the wire through.

Now, drill 2 small holes close to LED with collimator off and mounted on the heatsink without damaging the LED. Feed wires, 5 inches r longer, through and solder then to the LED. Push wires through battery tray and use gluue to join the epoxy side of heatsink to the battery tray. I use glue from auto supply store called "GOOO...can't remember. It works so well after a few month it's still solid.

I will explain more if anybody is interested. I use it around the house. It's not so big, and feels good to hold it. The position of the switch is just perfect. The front one is the low position. The rear one is for the high setting which is configured the same as yours, which overpass the current.

Hopefully I'll have time to experiment some DC/DC buck converter to fit 6 or 8 battery tray for 2LS. I am going to need your expertise again, dat2zip. We should have the 5W LS by then.

Hey, this is one great website. Thanks, everyone. Don't gorget to epoxy your "sanded NICHIA" to make it look "original".
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Henry
 

Darell

Flashaholic
Joined
Nov 14, 2001
Messages
18,644
Location
LOCO is more like it.
Hey Wayne -

Sorry to butt in here off-topic, but I can't get an email through to you. Is your Yahoo account on the blink? I keep getting a bounce that your account no longer exists. Any way to get in touch with you privately? (it's good news, so don't fret
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)

(** Edit **) Roger sent me another email for you Wayne. Hope it works. There must be something down at Yahoo because my response to Roger@yahoo bounced as well.
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- Thanks,
Darell
 
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