thinking to mod my mag 4D....

davidefromitaly

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i want to mod my mag 4D, i want to put in 4 adapter that can hold 3AA batts each for a total of 12 batteries. so i can have a great choice of bulbs to use, from 1,2v (1 ni-mh) to 44,4v (12 li-ion /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/evilgrin07.gif), for example i can use a 4cell surefire lamp with 11-12 ni-mh cell and have a great output or a 12v 20w halogen... there isn't limit to what i can do /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

what do you think about this (cheap) mod? ok the best is to install a hid but... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/broke.gif

where i can buy this 1D>3AA adapter? they must contain also the biggest ni-mh aa...
 

davidefromitaly

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thanks for yours help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif

fivemega: you think i can put 4 aa within a d size? also the biggest ni-mh? for the bulb i think to use a 12v 20w halogen and overdrive at 14,4v (but when running i think the voltage can drop a bit...), it is cheap and have a lot of hours-life, and i think can output up to 600 lumens

on the electrolumens site i haven't find the 3aa>1d adapter... what is the right adress?
 

PlayboyJoeShmoe

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I played with MR16 12v 10, 20 and even 50W using 123s.

A 12degree 20W with 7 123 was pretty darn awesome!

I can't afford to smoke 123s, and I will have to money order some 3toDs when they are common again.

But my main problem is I can charge 4 batteries at one time. At least on the same charger to the same voltage. I have two other "fast" chargers that aren't smart that I got before the C Crane.

7x123 is 21V no load. But that was how many it took to get awesome.
 

fivemega

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Dave,
If you want to use 4AA to D adapters, inner part of flashlight body must be bored.
You will overdrive 12 volt bulb using 12 AAs, only if you have low resistance adapters otherwise, voltage will drop considerably.
 

Raybo

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Whoops! That was just the description page, this is the page to order. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 

andrewwynn

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in battery searching i found an NiMH pack that is 3Ds with a jack for charging... wonder if you could find the same deal in 4D... nice to have reusable batts if making a high power light
 

davidefromitaly

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thanks for the info

now i'm indecided on the bulb... i have see the osram 64432 IRC 35W 12V that output a great 900 lumens but i don't know if 12 ni-mh AA batts can drive it... or the osram 41900 SP 20W 12V that is like a SF LA with a 8° beam, the diameter is 48mm and can easy fit in a mag head
 

RussH

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David, you may want to do as Gensing recommended in some other posts and stay with NiMH batteries rated less than 2000mah (or maybe 2100). He says that at higher current (35w is 3 amps, more amps & watts with a 14.4v source) the high capacity batteries don't do any better than the 2000mah or the 2100mah Sanyo. Those should provide 3 amps.

But 20w 0r 35 watt will need a metal reflector. The original plastic reflector seems to melt when driven over 10-12w continuously, although you can run it for short bursts. The usual flashaholic approach is to try both! And let us know how it works out.
 

davidefromitaly

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thanks for the info

you think that the 2400AA of batterystation or the 2300/2500AA of energizer can't output 3a/h?

what you think is the better reflector to use for the thightest spot? carley 1940?

for the bulb now i'm to chose beetwen the osram 35w 900lm (but i have fear that it have a too big filament) of the welch allyn 01154 but it have "only" 750 lumens...
 

Ginseng

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Hi Davide,

Sorry that I have to suggest a search but there are some excellent older threads regarding stuffing an MR-16 or MR-11 reflectorized lamp in a Mag. In fact, quite a few folks have used 35W and 50W lamps in a 4D with 12 AA in series. That's four of the EL 3-D adaptors. You would not have to change the switch assembly necessarily. You could simply solder wire leads from the switch contacts to pin sockets for the MR-16 pins. Very easy to do. This mod makes for a simple way to get huge amounts of light. At 35W, stick with 2000mAh or less. At 50W, you can still run 1800-2000mAh consumer grade cells but if you do a full pack discharge, they will get very warm. Hot. This would be unhealthy for the cells. But it can be done as I have driven MAHA 2000mAh cells at 4.8A. They got hot enough to soften and shrink the cell wrapping.

Wilkey
 

udaman

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'Unofficial Ginseng researcher' strikes again with links and long posts.

Hmm, now what if someone is just a nut like me and will not have a M*g mod that does not look 100% original. (kind of like a mint Mercedes '58 300SL 'gull-wing'; you'd be burned at the stake if you tried to 'bling-bling' one of these classics with 20in blindingly bright chrome wheels). No obvious outward change to it's appearance, and function. This is so that someone who already has seen/used a M*g before could just pick one up and use it like a standard M*g. In essence a "M*glite for Dummies"...except it will blind the living daylights out of mere mortals /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

How does one do this: retain the super quick spot-to-flood focusing mechanism that newbie's are so used to having available to them? Well, this means you need to have a cammed reflector. Only 3 ways to have cammed reflector at present. 1st, and perhaps best way, is to obtain one of the handful of Oto's PMR Carley modified/cammed reflectors. But it is not likely that someone who has one will sell it to you. It's all metal, but works just like the plastic M*g reflector. Next way is to use a technique for adding a metal or plastic(likely to melt with very high-wattage bulbs) PVC pipe with a diagonal cut in the tube to match that of the original M*g reflector and attach it to the Carley 1940 aluminum reflector. bwaites is supposed to do a pictorial tutorial one of these days ;-).

Less perfect way is to use the $25 M*gChr reflector sleeve, and place it into the stock plastic M*g reflector (this mod will probably melt with the lower of the higher wattage bulbs, but it has not been precisely determined as yet what wattage that is. Bwaites-MagCh,metal>C/D, plastic reflector

After you tackle that weak link, you'll need a glass lens, and perhaps an additional O-ring as discussed here countdown for the mag85 and related thread here to read Ginseng's comments: 52.1mm Borofloat Thickness Poll

Once that's done, you now decide which of the higher output bulbs will work. Hmm, I think I like the beam pattern of the Osram 64440 IRC (not to be confused with regular axial filament 64440) as shown here by Ginseng Project Aurora: Version 4K (original thread title: " Project Aurora: Fistful of Lightning (many pics)" Hehe, I think Ginseng is a Clint Eastwood/spaghetti western fan...que up the Ennio Morricone music, Ginseng at one end of the neighborhood walking down the street with innocuous looking M*g stealth Aurora, me walking down from the other end of the street, almost unnoticeable tiny M*gC cell in pocket, looking completely powerless, lulling the unwary into complacency (but hidden inside, stealth bulb and Li-Ion energy source). Tension builds, they get closer, who will draw faster, and who will aim their powerful, narrow, tight; spot-focused beams to hit the target 1st???

[ QUOTE ]
Joe : You shoot to kill, you better hit the heart. Your own words, Ramone.
[Ramone fires off two shots, but The Man With No Name stands right back up]
Joe : The heart, Ramone. Don't forget the heart. Aim for the heart, or you'll never stop me.

[/ QUOTE ]
The eyes, Ginny. Don't forget the eyes. Aim for the eyes, or you'll never stop me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


Call it a poorman's lower output Aurora (but just don't use the "Aurora" name here /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif, Ginseng has the one and only version of that particular mod.)

From the minute we found out that the V2 adapters would work, did not all of you think about possibly stuffing that oversized IRC into a 4D M*g???

Which wattage do we try, something that's both brighter than the Mag85(3D version), but has tighter spot???

64440 IRC at 50w/1,200+lm?

64432 IRC 35w/900+lm? generating the same heat levels in the head, but less current draw on the batteries than the WA1185

64447 IRC65w/1,700+lm, will a stock M*g be able to tolerate the current flow without completely melting down the pedestal using 1800ma RC-style AA NiMH's


Ah, but there are more problems to deal with. While all of these bulbs are the same size, they are bi-pin of larger size G6.3; and who would pot them into the PR base with precise centering of the filament?. Would it be even possible to pot one of the 25 or 35w bulbs into a PR base? The WA1185 comes close to melting a PR base IIRC, but the bulb itself along with pins are narrower in the WA1185. Hmm, on my M*g the spring for the bulb socket is somewhat compressed, to the lower position of travel, it can be pulled forward at least 10mm. So I took everything apart to approximate distances. Using standard PR bulb about 18mm in length, I can see that if you unscrew the M*g head forward of the body tube O-ring about 5mm, it is possible you could retain good flood to spot cammed focusing of one of these Osram 44mm long bulbs with filament at 30mm from ends of the pins. Whereas the standard PR filament is about 18mm from the bottom of the PR base. Then you'd have to slightly enlarge the PR base retaining ring to allow the 12mm thick Osram bulb to fit through that. But from Ginseng's close-up pic of the 64440 IRC, the GY6.3 glass body looks like it is significantly wider than the filament envelope, and you can only enlarge the PR base retaining ring out to about 13mm. Is the glass body of the 64440 IRC thick enough that you could file away a small amount to make it fit through the PR base retaining ring? I also wonder if you could remove the gold plated bi-pin contact sleeves, as if you were potting these, that part of the bulb serves no function. You'd probably have to use a mod'd Carley reflector with a slightly longer metal tube for the cammed operation, and then put plumber's teflon tape on the body tube threads with some nice thick clear waterproof silicone grease on the rest of the M*g body tube threads, as the head would not be able to screw down onto the the body tube O-ring. Not too good looking then, but it will be brighter than any M*gChr setup, with that lovely smooth beam. Seems like a 'fistful of trouble', but it just might work /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Personally, if it can't just fit into my oversized cargo pant's pockets like a M*g2C, then it's too big! For everything else there's MasterCard™...and a few $$$$ put into modding the Maxabeam to it's fullest potential...I mean, the stock Maxabeam 0.67mm short arc xenon 75w capsule doesn't even output as many lumens as a WA1185 that has been overdriven /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Megaray slayer, mod'd MB???
 

davidefromitaly

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why you prefer the 50w irc to the 35w irc?

i think to put the 35w in my mag, it balance the output with the runtime. with 12 ni-mh i think it go in overdive and can output at least 1100 lumens, and more than 30mins of runtime with the "15 mins recharge" batteries.

i'm wrong? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif
 

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