Waterproof Surefires?

Which current Surefire models are waterproof enough to be submerged and operated "continuously" (for several minutes) to 6-10 ft. (2-3m) depth? I'm pretty sure the M series are - what about the L5? and the L2?

Welcome to CPF

What is your intended activity/requirement?

I would have no problem taking the M Series or L Series (exept L7) underwater 2-3 metres. In fact, I would expect all current non-rechargeable SureFires should be able to handle such an activity with the exception of the G2.

I would prefer to have the light already switched on prior to submerging and I would ensure the o-rings were clean, intact and lubricated.

Thanks for the quick help. The intended purpose if for caving (what you call "potholing" in the UK, I think). I have some great long-runtime head-lamps (TAG-Lite, PT Switchback), and some backups (PT Attitude, PT Impact), but I was looking for a REALLY bright light for route-finding (Our caves here are BIG). I'm thinking about a M2 or even a Turbo-head model. Now, I use a Surge, but it's bulky and I could use more throw. Are the Turbo-heads waterproof as well?
I always carry one backup light (a PT Attitude) in a pocket on the sleeve of my cavesuit. The idea is to always have a backup even if a fall damaged my headlamp and separated me from my pack. I have been thinking about an L2 to replace it. Durabilty, thin profile, and runtime are the important factors.
By the way, I don't actually expect the lights to be under 3m of water - I'm not a cave diver. But it's likely they will be under 1m of water in strong currents, so that was an approximation/safety factor.
I appreciate you advice on this.

I have taken a L2 and L6 down to probably 5 meters with no problems. As Al stated, the O-rings and their seats need to be clean and properly lubed. The turtle below had his eye on pre-production KL6 # A00001 (approximate depth - 6 meters):

Where was that (GREAT!) picture taken. Can I hazard a guess of somewhere in the Yucatan (Xel Ha ?)

I've no experience potholing, but, I suspect such a flashlight as the L2 will get pretty dirty. If you are operating (rotating) the TailCap in such wet and dirty conditions, having only one o-ring may not be enough.

The KT TurboHead is as "waterproof" as the Millennium TurboHead. The Millennium TurboHead is shock isolated which could help.

The TurboHead models such as the M3T, M4 and M6 are great. I'd take two M3T's (one as back up or so not to need to open it up to replace the batteries) The M Series have double o-rings on the TailCap end of the body.

For a onbody backup, I'd use a UKE-2L.

I think though, a dedicated divelight would be better than a metal flashlight.

Al

Al

The pic was taken in Maui. As Al has stated, the LOTC's can become pepper grinders in silty and dirty environments. If you do go with a SF, I would suggest you use a "clickie" so you aren't rotating any of the components. The older style clickie shown above (Al can supply the part number! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif ) was good to about 7 meters and then the pressure would activate the switch. None of these are good dive lights but likely up to your needs.

That clickie on the L6 shown underwater is the Z48
See here:

Story has it that Surefire made a version of the 6P for the Navy SEALS that was water tight. I'd like to add that to my inventory!

chiphead

That's the 6PN.
SureFire use "N" to mean that specific light has been depth tested.
Usually, you don't see them for sale since they are made to order but sometimes there are extra ones.

Like the ones Meridian Tactical has?

To:Size15s
Is there any difference between 6P and 6PN in design or
meterial?

Thanks.

That I understand it, there is no difference in design.

However, they may use a different or second o-ring like the Millennium Series have, and they also may ensure that the o-rings are well lubricated. I am not certain of this though. Good o-ring care is vital though.

Al

It reminds me.
My friends` 6P body leave a "Space" for another o-ring.

To:McGizmo
Can I borrow your picture?I want to share with my friends
at another forum. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

nice pic... btw i tested both of my surefire c3 and e2d and both passed 35psi of water pressure(well over 20metres)... u have to pay special attention on the e2d's clicky and check if the ring screw(correct term?) is tightened well or else it WILL leak...

I'd just get a UK. Cheaper too, if it does flood

[ QUOTE ]
Lion said:
It reminds me.
My friends` 6P body leave a "Space" for another o-ring.

I just checked my M3, looks like I am missing an O-ring, I've always wondered why they put two for the tailcap and one for the head. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif, Time to e-mail SF CS.

There should be one on the bezel end of the body and two on the TailCap end of the Millennium Series Body.

Al

I guess the tailcap has 2 because you may twist it under the rain or even submerged while the bezel wouldn't need to be twisted for activation and one will do fine.

Hmm..that makes sense, but it seems like on the bezel end there is a space for another O-ring