Mag85 NiMh battery selection

SJACKAL

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With the WA bulbs closing in, I have more and more questions arising out of nowhere /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif Please /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif

Wilkey had said that there are two types of NiMh; high capacity (above 2000mAh - AAsize) and high current. For super hotwire mods like these, need the high current type.

<font color="red"> I am wondering, does this means that any AA size NiMh below 2000mAh is considered high current??? </font>
 

Ginseng

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No. Not necessarily although in general, the current capability increases as the capacity goes down. This is a consequence of the spiral wrap construction in cylindrical nimh rechargeables. An 1800mAH cell from Sanyo would have nowhere near the current capability of an 1800mAh KAN or Sanyo designed specifically for high current. You should take my comment as an indication of a general trend. For true classification, always refer to the manufacturer's data sheet.

Also, when we speak of "high current capable," what we mean is "minimizing voltage sag under a high current load." So, an 1800mAh cell that provides 1.20V under a given load (for example, 3A) is "higher current capable" than a cell that delivers 1.10V under the same load.

Does that help?

Wilkey
 

Ginseng

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Also, keep in mind that for the general class of nimh cells, 3.15A is considered high drain. For true HC cells, 10A and higher would be considered high drain.

Wilkey
 

Bullzeyebill

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Wilkey, is there any advantage using a Kan 1800 AA, over say a Powerex 2000 AA when the draw is around 1.5 amps? Will the Kan maintain the current better than the Powerex, and longer?

Bill
 

js

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[ QUOTE ]
Bullzeyebill said:
Wilkey, is there any advantage using a Kan 1800 AA, over say a Powerex 2000 AA when the draw is around 1.5 amps? Will the Kan maintain the current better than the Powerex, and longer?

Bill

[/ QUOTE ]

The voltage-current graph of a lamp (I-V curve) is sloped up such that increasing the voltage means a higher current draw, but it is nowhere near a 1 to 1 ratio. The current goes up rather slowly as you increase the voltage--in the operating range we are considering, anyway.

High current batteries--as Ginseng said--hold their voltage under a high current draw. High capacity batteries do not. Also, some batteries have an internal resistance which is too high for use at 3+ amps and they will overheat and get damaged over time, thus reducing the number of cycles of life you could expect from them.

I can't answer this specific question as I have no experience with either cell, but what I can tell you is that the 1185 draws over 3 amps on 9 cells, and that very few AA cells on the market today can really handle that kind of current draw gracefully.

If it were me, I would use the KAN 1300's. 3 amps is nothing to these cells, and many would say that they are "overkill" for this current draw, but that means a very nice voltage vs. time discharge curve, and significantly more lumens from the 1185. Plus, given the resistance of the 3-to-D holders and Mag switch, I suspect (BUT CAN'T GUARANTEE) that insta-flashing wouldn't be an issue. And these cells are a benchmark of AA cells and have a low internal resistance and will not heat up that much and will live out their full number of cycles with aplomb.

Just my $.02. Most people think I'm a bit out there, though, so be forewarned. hehe.
 

udaman

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[ QUOTE ]
js said:
[ QUOTE ]
Bullzeyebill said:
Wilkey, is there any advantage using a Kan 1800 AA, over say a Powerex 2000 AA when the draw is around 1.5 amps? Will the Kan maintain the current better than the Powerex, and longer?

Bill

[/ QUOTE ]

The voltage-current graph of a lamp (I-V curve) is sloped up such that increasing the voltage means a higher current draw, but it is nowhere near a 1 to 1 ratio. The current goes up rather slowly as you increase the voltage--in the operating range we are considering, anyway.

High current batteries--as Ginseng said--hold their voltage under a high current draw. High capacity batteries do not. Also, some batteries have an internal resistance which is too high for use at 3+ amps and they will overheat and get damaged over time, thus reducing the number of cycles of life you could expect from them.

I can't answer this specific question as I have no experience with either cell, but what I can tell you is that the 1185 draws over 3 amps on 9 cells, and that very few AA cells on the market today can really handle that kind of current draw gracefully.

If it were me, I would use the KAN 1300's. 3 amps is nothing to these cells, and many would say that they are "overkill" for this current draw, but that means a very nice voltage vs. time discharge curve, and significantly more lumens from the 1185. Plus, given the resistance of the 3-to-D holders and Mag switch, I suspect (BUT CAN'T GUARANTEE) that insta-flashing wouldn't be an issue. And these cells are a benchmark of AA cells and have a low internal resistance and will not heat up that much and will live out their full number of cycles with aplomb.

Just my $.02. Most people think I'm a bit out there, though, so be forewarned. hehe.

[/ QUOTE ]

"unofficial Ginseng researcher" chimes in with linky:

Preliminary Testing: V2 3-D Adapters

Instaflashing on Badass 4ah 1/2D Aero NiMH's---Nipples, nipples, nipples
Few RC style/high current delivery cells other than the 4amp/hour 1/2 D Aero NiMH can supply enough amps at sustained higher voltages as these 1/2 cells, so chance of instaflashing is unlikely.

Need to find a good AA Nimh cell
There are also these other 1800ma NiMH cells mentioned by js in this thread. I think there is a typo for the KAN, 1800 or 1300ma?

Although untested by Ginseng (see Ginseng, the questions are going to come back ;-), Wayne would have been happy to send you back the 3AA-D adapters to have you test other batteries /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif);
I suspect, due to the fact they will take almost 8amps on charge; either the current Rayovac IC3 2000ma 15min. charge AA's will work well enough, as will the 2200ma 15min. charge Energizers due to hit the market by the end of the year. Can't have much fun if your high drain bulbs exhaust the batteries in 20 min or less---and it takes overnight to recharge them. These will not be a potent at the true high-current designed cells I suspect. They will heat up more, but the trade off is super fast charge time with the inexpensive dedicated chargers.

Huh js, only Ginny & I think Ur 'out there' /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif, and since we're also mad scientist flashaholics, our opinion doesn't count. The adapters are not likely the 'weakest link' as far as resistance. Keep the electrical pathway of contacts clean on either a standard M*g or M*gChr; if you want full brightness, less heat generated inside the body, and more power actually going to the bulb.

Seems to me we will have to come up with longer acronyms for the various bulb M*g mods, M*g3D85? Can the EL 3AA-D's fit in the M*gChr also? If we ever see protected Li-Ion C-cell's, then we'll have M*g3C85 also.
Slavin4U Li-Ions thread
 

SJACKAL

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That helped a lot. Need to read up more about batteries... not sure if Kan is available at my side.
 

Ginseng

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Thanks for the assist Jim. Spot on as always. Just to add that tha Mag internal resistance is pretty low. In fact, surprisingly low. It's below 30mOhm for the whole circuit. At least it is when the light is new and contacts are clean.

Oodle,
Thanks for the links you nut /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif I think js is talking about the KAN 1300mAh AAs. I tested the KAN 1800 4/5As. There are other 1400mAh high current AAs. Personally, if oyu only use the light in squirts, a 2000mAh good quality consumer grade AA is fine. If you tend to abuse it with full pack discharges, the HC cells are a far safer and better bet.

If EL will send me a set of holders and someone sends me the cells and charger, I will run the test that I usually run. In this case it would be a conditioned, full pack discharge against a potted WA01185.

The EL 3-D do fit in a MagCharger. Internally it is essentially identical to the Mag 3D at least i the battery chamber.

I get my KAN cells from www.battlepacks.com or www.dynamoelectrics.com or www.cheapbatterypacks.com

Davide,
Yes, I believe it wil discharge in 15 minutes. I can't say if it will charge in a standard charger as I don't know how they do what they do.

Wilkey
 

Ginseng

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Forgot to mention it...Jim, love your new avatar! Fixture Ring Potting eh?

Wilkey
 

SJACKAL

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Wilkey,

I think KAN is not available at my side. Is there other brand that are high current or somewhere near? Will GP or Sanyos do? I am thinking of buying a speed charger and just some GP 1600s... Wondering if this will suffice... Thanx for help. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Nerd

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Those 1600s ought to do 3 amps fine. I've pushed em at 5 amps before. When running at extended period of time at that kind of current, the shrink wrap... uh.. shrinked some more... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 

js

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[ QUOTE ]
Ginseng said:
Forgot to mention it...Jim, love your new avatar! Fixture Ring Potting eh?

Wilkey

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks, Wilkey. Not as good as udaman's avatar, but it'll do.

Also, didn't mean to be obnoxious in answering a question asked to you; just figured you might not see the question.
 

Ginseng

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Hahaha,
Yep, that sounds like some ho fun, Nerd. a 1600mAh batt should do just fine although it may not be specifically designed for current delivery in excess of 5 amps. Perhaps you can see if you can find any Radio-Control hobbyist groups in your area. That's where the cutting edge of battery use seems to be here in the states.

Jim,
Your advice is always topical and informative. No worries. What is it with you guys and Jessie Alba? Isn't she jailbait or something? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Wilkey
 

Ginseng

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More than likely they'll be ok. As long as they're in good condition.

Wilkey
 
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