Help needed with LSH-P

cmlotito · Oct 4, 2004

Just got my LSH-P #040 from Supremeco in the mail today. Manufacture date was 4/9/03. Seems like a nice little light.

BUT, I can't unscrew the tail cap to get to the battery.

Is this due to the fact its been unused for some 18 months.

How can I unscrew the darn thing without marking up the case with pliers?

Thanks

cy · Oct 4, 2004

use two cheap $1 strap wrenches

cmlotito · Oct 4, 2004

Thanks for the idea, it worked.

Now that I got it apart any ideas on how to safely clean up the black gunk that is on the threads?

cmlotito · Oct 4, 2004

Oh, and here is a pic of the battery that came with it.

http://members.cox.net/cmlotito/123a.jpg

The button appears to have been crushed but battery doesn't appear to be leaking. I think I'll toss it out anyway. The battery not the light /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

DharmaBum · Oct 4, 2004

Toss the light, too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
All that black gunk is aluminum oxide. Some suggest to use an oil to put the oxide in suspension, then clean it off with a rag, but the oil itself could damage the o-ring. I just use a nice soft rag or shop towel to wipe the threads really well, then use silicone grease to LIGHTLY regrease the threads and o-ring. Do this a couple times a year and you're all set. I bought Gunk plumber's grease in a little container for a few bucks at Lowe's and that's the stuff to use.

Hallis · Oct 4, 2004

Toss that light in a box and mail it to me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

M_R · Oct 4, 2004

Should the black factory gunk be cleaned? I was just going to leave it on my 4+? Are there consequences to leaving it in place?

Thanks

Matthew

LitFuse · Oct 4, 2004

If the gunk is on the gold wafer in the switch, then it's good gunk. If it's in the threads, it's bad gunk.

Peter

M_R · Oct 4, 2004

It's the same gunk on both as far as I can tell. It also seems to be there on purpose, as it is applied to the entire threaded area up until three threads before the O rings. However it is only present on the tail end of the body with none to be found on the other end.

jrunner192 · Oct 5, 2004

I actually believe I remember Peter saying that the grease that they use has carbon in it. Some kinda fancy grease. That's part of the reason why it is dark. While the oxidation does add to this darkness you've also got to remember that the grease helps to seal air from coming into contact with the bare metal. But I swear I read somewhere that the grease included a carbon treatment.

cmlotito · Oct 5, 2004

Thanks for the replies guys. I did clean up tyhe black gunk and was about to apply some silicone grease but soon read that I should use dielectric silicone grease (which I don't have) for better conductivity. So, just gotta get to home depot and pick some up in a day or two.

jrunner192 · Oct 5, 2004

In all truth dielectric grease isn't really gonna make ant difference. If you can just get normal silicone grease sooner, just get it. Plus the normal grease will probably be cheaper.

Eric_M · Oct 5, 2004

[ QUOTE ]
cmlotito said:
Thanks for the replies guys. I did clean up tyhe black gunk and was about to apply some silicone grease but soon read that I should use dielectric silicone grease (which I don't have) for better conductivity. So, just gotta get to home depot and pick some up in a day or two.

[/ QUOTE ]

I don't think you want to use "dielectric" grease. Dielectric means non-conductive or insulating. If anything you want a conductive grease.

Help needed with LSH-P

cmlotito

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cy

Flashaholic

cmlotito

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cmlotito

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DharmaBum

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Hallis

Flashlight Enthusiast

M_R

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LitFuse

Flashlight Enthusiast

M_R

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jrunner192

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cmlotito

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jrunner192

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Eric_M

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