Direct Drive PR-T head 3 watt

Wildcat

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I made up a direct drive PR-T head this weekend. It's driven off a Li-Ion 123. It's quite brite. The PR reflector does a MUCH better job of pointing the Lux III beam than any of the other reflectors I've tried. Sorry for the REALLY bad pics.

pr-dd.jpg


aleph.jpg
 

tylerdurden

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Nice. That's just a standard ecan? What material are you using for the isolator between the ecan and the screw?

I was thinking about ways to do this just recently. The best idea I came up with was to fill the bottom of the ecan with playdoh, just barely, so that the inside of the lip is flush with the playdoh, then fill the can halfway full with Arctic Alumina. Once it dries, you could drive a screw through the AA, trim as needed, and then solder the wire to the bit of screw remaining.
 

Wildcat

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That is a piece of Orange Paduak inside an ecan. I Superglued it to the can, put the screw thru, soldered the wire to the screw, then filled the can in with Devcon 2-Ton. The solder joint is under the epoxy.
 

hotbeam

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DD with a Pila Li-ion is excellent on a LuxIII LED. I've done one similar on a McModule (TWAK) and it is a nice spot from the PR.
 

darkzero

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[ QUOTE ]
tylerdurden said:
Nice. That's just a standard ecan? What material are you using for the isolator between the ecan and the screw?

I was thinking about ways to do this just recently. The best idea I came up with was to fill the bottom of the ecan with playdoh, just barely, so that the inside of the lip is flush with the playdoh, then fill the can halfway full with Arctic Alumina. Once it dries, you could drive a screw through the AA, trim as needed, and then solder the wire to the bit of screw remaining.

[/ QUOTE ]

I built a 5W Mclux PR head DD a while back using the contact assy from a standard McLux head. There are some pictures here.

The trick is you must flip the cathode contact "ring", as seen in the pic in the post I linked, when installing it as opposed to how it's supposed to sit in a standard McLux head. It's hard to see it but in the pic of the cathode contact "ring", I cut a groove for the positive wire so that it will line up directly with the hole in the head. I also did this for the negative wire and filled it in with solder. That way the cathode contact "ring" will rest flat all they way in the head.
 

Hallis

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Nice McLux DD's guys. Im picking up my first McLux in trade from a CPF member. It's a LuxV on a DB917 with a 3x123 body. I could see myself easilly building a DD head and putting it on a 2x123 with 2x of the LiION R123's
 

Wildcat

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McGizmo, If your asking me...no. That is just Z52 guts in the Aleph cap. The two-stage guts in the cap is next on the list of must haves.
 

McGizmo

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Wildcat,
Sorry and yes, I was asking you. I found with both a L2 head on 2x123 DD and L1 on 1x123 (both cases underdriven DD) that the 15 ohm switch gave an even lower yet still viable and useful light level. I would assume that dropping a DD set up like you have here would also have its advantages but have not played with this configuration yet. Too many combinations to try!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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