burn time of J/S Burly123a on a 3 watter luxxeom..
- Thread starter alfred
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Flashlight Enthusiast
Please don't make multiple posts on the same subject as you already have one at 'Flashlights...Batteries Included'
SilverFox
Flashaholic
Hello Alfred,
Welcome to CPF.
Yes cross posting is a no no.
The R-CR123's have a capacity of around 600 mAh. If you know the current consumption of a particular light, you can divide that into the capacity and get an idea of run time.
Tom
Welcome to CPF.
Yes cross posting is a no no.
The R-CR123's have a capacity of around 600 mAh. If you know the current consumption of a particular light, you can divide that into the capacity and get an idea of run time.
Tom
Re: burn time of J/S Burly123a on a 3 watter luxxe
Again, I'd probably ask in the "Batteries Included" forum. If you want information the current draw of one Quantum III in the LED Museum review. There's also another such review at Cone's stuff. Given that you were asking about the Quantum III in the Flashlights... Batteries Included forum, I assume this is the information you wanted.
It should be noted that there is no 'typical draw' when it comes to Lux III's - that'll depend on the circuitry driving it (is it regulated? Is there a boost circuit?), the Vf of the Luxeon (J-binned Luxeons require less voltage than K-binned ones, which will affect your runtime as the J-binned will work fine with lower voltages), and even the color (the cyan LuxIII's are supposed to run a tad longer than the white ones, but that's just hearsay on my end).
If you're talking about specific lights, the Vf of the LuxIII will be the primary difference, since every light of that model will (presumably) have the same circuits. With an Aleph-series light like those that Don sells, you'll know he's using TWOK-binned LuxIIIs, which gives you the 3.5-3.79V rating on those lights' Vf. Earlier, he was using TWOJ, which had 3.29-3.5V, IIRC.
Be aware that the overdischarge protection on those r123s will kill the battery's output after it hits 2.88V or so, so a higher-binned Vf on a LuxIII means that it probably won't last as long on a r123.
Beyond that, I'd suggest putting up more questions in your post in "Flashlight Electronics, Batteries Included" forum.
Again, I'd probably ask in the "Batteries Included" forum. If you want information the current draw of one Quantum III in the LED Museum review. There's also another such review at Cone's stuff. Given that you were asking about the Quantum III in the Flashlights... Batteries Included forum, I assume this is the information you wanted.
It should be noted that there is no 'typical draw' when it comes to Lux III's - that'll depend on the circuitry driving it (is it regulated? Is there a boost circuit?), the Vf of the Luxeon (J-binned Luxeons require less voltage than K-binned ones, which will affect your runtime as the J-binned will work fine with lower voltages), and even the color (the cyan LuxIII's are supposed to run a tad longer than the white ones, but that's just hearsay on my end).
If you're talking about specific lights, the Vf of the LuxIII will be the primary difference, since every light of that model will (presumably) have the same circuits. With an Aleph-series light like those that Don sells, you'll know he's using TWOK-binned LuxIIIs, which gives you the 3.5-3.79V rating on those lights' Vf. Earlier, he was using TWOJ, which had 3.29-3.5V, IIRC.
Be aware that the overdischarge protection on those r123s will kill the battery's output after it hits 2.88V or so, so a higher-binned Vf on a LuxIII means that it probably won't last as long on a r123.
Beyond that, I'd suggest putting up more questions in your post in "Flashlight Electronics, Batteries Included" forum.
