Can My Arc AAA Be Saved? Help!

scott

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Today is the day that all of my fears have been realized. I broke my Arc AAA. I don't remember it happening, but somehow I stripped or cross-threaded the threads. So far, I can't tell if it's the threads in the head, the body, or both.

Does anyone know if the materials for the head and body are the same, or if one might be softer than the other? If I cross threaded something, are both pieces likely to be damaged?

If only the body threads is damaged, and as long as the head is okay, I think I can get a replacement body from Peak... Is that right?

Argh.... Please take pity, and help.

Scott
 

The_LED_Museum

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As far as I'm aware, both the head and body are made from the same material - aluminum.

If the threads on the head do not appear to be damaged too badly (you should be able to examine the threads with the unaided eye to determine this), you should be able to screw it onto a Peak LED Solutions 1xAAA body.
 

Polar_Hops

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Hi. I am glad to see that i am not the ONLY one that crossthreads flashlights. I recently DOUBLE crossthreaded my Nuwai QIII. I have stripped most of the knurling off trying to remove the tailcap.

After I stripped the tailcap, however, I got the head off. I thought this was very neat, as it allowed me to still use my flashlight. Well, eventually i ended up crossthreading that part too. I somehow managed to get it off. But it would not thread properly. If you can, try to "clean" the threads with a knife blade. If you do this, it can be risky. It can damage both threads, but if you do a good job, you can make it screw on fairly easily. After you screw/unscrew it a number of times, they even out.

I would only try if you can find no other alternative, and if the threads are on the head, not inside of the tube.
 

SolarPowered

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Oct 23, 2004
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If you get a Peak body, be aware that their standard body is quite a bit longer than the Arc. What you want as a replacement is their "prototype" body, which is the same size as the Arc. As I understand it, the aluminum prototype body will be available in about a month; their brass prototype body can be had now.
 

DharmaBum

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FWIW, the Arc head will work in their production AAA body, too, which as stated is longer because of the screw-off tailpiece. I think these bodies kick butt, especially for $5, but they aren't identical to the prototype/Arc body. Also, for $14.95 you can get a working prototype from the Closeouts page. They have aluminum ones still available. You could swap the Arc head into that body easily, too.
 

UnknownVT

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Dec 27, 2002
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here's something I learnt many years ago to avoid cross-threading:

place the parts together as if about to assemble - BUT turn in the counter direction (eg: anti-clockwise) with light moderate pressure inwards toward the direction of assembly. When a click is felt that's when the threads are starting to properly engage - reverse the direction to screw the parts together.

If there is any uncertainty - be patient - continue in the counter direction until the click is positively felt - before turning in the direction of assembly.
 

Topper

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That works about 90% of the time for me. The other 10% I cross inspite of being carefull, some things just want to crossthread.
Topper /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

SolarPowered

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Yes, the Arc head does fit on the production body as well as the prototype body. My comments we in regards to replacing Scott's with as close as possible to what he has now. The production body is quite nice; I personally prefer the shorter body of the "prototype" since that makes the flashlight about the same length as my keys; the longer "production" length is, to me, a little less convenient.

Some other folks, though, prefer the longer size.
 

scott

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Well... it doesn't matter now... The threads on the head are bad. It just ain't gonna work. I'm going to turn it into a D cell emergency light, and start looking at the Peak AAA 3 LED for now. I almost bought a Dorcy AAA today at Walmart to hold me over. They're just SO big for what they are, though.

Scott

PS: My wife has an Arc AAA in her purse. She's been reminding me all day that she has one, and that I don't. So cruel.
 

DiscoSnorlax

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Well, if the threads are really damaged...

We covered something like this in my Fabrication of Robot Systems class. For bad internal threads, a tap is needed. For external threads that are bad a tool called a die was needed. I also remember from the time my drum practice pad's stand-mount hole stripped out really badly, something called a helicoil was used to repair it.

Dunno if this advice will help or not, but I figure it's worth a shot.
 
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