1 watt task lamp

dasfx

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Jul 24, 2003
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Maryland, USA
Well, inspired by KevinL's post I've finally decided I should take a shot at my task light.
However, not having much experience with this type of thing, I, of course, have questions.

The idea is this: A 1 watt lux in a head attached to a piece of loc-line, powered by some batteries (similar to the one at the sammich shop). The catch is, I want to be able to adjust the brightness.

So there are two questions that I have. First, any ideas on what driver i should use? I had been looking at the Fatman at taskled ( link ), as it seems simple to hook up to an external pot, but was looking for any other ideas.
Second, and this may be answered by the first choice, is what type of batteries and how many? I had been thinking something like 2 C-cells.

Thanks to the gurus in advance!

DasFX
 

hotbeam

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Jan 2, 2003
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Melb, AU
If you are using the Fatman on a LuxeonI, the maximum number of batteries are 2 x 1.5V (or 1.2V rechargables for much better run time). You could always use the uFlex, with microprocessor controlled dimming. With that config, you must use at least 3 x 1.5V (or 1.2V rechargables).
 

LEDmodMan

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First, I'll point you over here to a loc-line e-series task light I built awhile ago. It is sooo useful, and having the option to use various e-series heads (or C series with an E2C) is a big plus. However, I still haven't added a resistored setting to mine yet, so it only works at full bright. This light is a real lifesaver for working underneath a car. Just point it where you want it, and it stays put. I prefer to use the KL4 for this.

I think you'll come to really enjoy the loc-line. Berkely point has the best piecemeal selection, is the only place (besides the Sandwich Shoppe) where you can get black in a small order, and their prices are good.
BP Loc-Line
Also remeber they offer a CPF discount of 10%.

Finally, stay tuned for a post from me coming real soon. Back in late August I built a nFlex powered desk lamp that has a really neat added feature. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/popcorn.gif I just haven't had the time to upload the pics and write the post, but I'm going to try and do that tonight.

***edit***
Here it is: 7.4 Watt LuxIII nFlex Desk Lamp
 

dasfx

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Hmmmm.
Now I'm thinking 4 AA's to a nFlex to a lux III. With that config I'd like to do an external power source (like a wall wart) connecting to the base. Is there a simple way to seperate the two power souces? That is, if it is plugged in, use the plug power, other wise use the AA's? Or perhaps with a switch? thanks.

DasFX
 

LEDmodMan

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Das,
You can actually buy (and many electronic items that operate on both wall and battery power have them) a jack that has a switch built in. When you pull the wallwart plug out, a terminal makes contact and closes the DC power circuit, enabling battery operation. Obviously then, when you plug in the wallwart into the jack it opens the circuit, preventing the batteries from seeing the power from the wallwart. This is especially important if you using non-rechargeable batts.

Radio Shack carries some of these parts, and is just one place you could look to get them. Look here and here for examples. If you have a Fry's in your area, that would also be a good place to look.
 

Flatscan

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Jul 30, 2002
Messages
223
[ QUOTE ]
dasfx said:
Now I'm thinking 4 AA's to a nFlex to a lux III. With that config I'd like to do an external power source (like a wall wart) connecting to the base. Is there a simple way to seperate the two power souces? That is, if it is plugged in, use the plug power, other wise use the AA's? Or perhaps with a switch? thanks.

[/ QUOTE ]

Here is exactly what you want: FlexiLED reading/bedlight

I don't know if georges80 still has those boxes around, because he doesn't list them in his product list, but the setup is awesome. I got the FlexiLED kit and the box from him, and after fumbling around with a drill, I set it all up. The listed kit includes a uFlex (I think I got the standard setting current limit), but I wouldn't be surprised if you could substitute an nFlex.

The plug/jack opens a switch as it plugs in, cutting the battery power. The nice thing about the uFlex/nFlex boards is that they're step-down convertors, so you can use any wallwart as long as it has enough capacity and isn't an insanely high voltage. I have a very cheap one that likely overvoltages on low loads, but that doesn't cause a problem. MPJA has cheap wallwarts, if you need one.
 
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