can't remove switch assembly on mag! RESOLVED.

can\'t remove switch assembly on mag! RESOLVED.

I've got one of them older mags where the serial # is all numbers. So far the mods I've read about deal with the newer mags where they have a C or D to start the serial#.

After reading 2 mods, by KevinL and Mr Bulk,
I tried to remove the switch assembly using a 5/64" hexkey. Only I don't get anything when i turn the thing in any direction. I put in a smaller 1/16" and something loosened but the switch assembly still wouldn't come loose.
Tried bashing it out with a screw driver and hammer but that did nothing. Nothing larger than 5/64 fits into the switch hole. Does anyone know if there's something else to be done to remove the assembly from the older mods? Hopefully I'm just missing something simple. I got all my parts here and it would suck if can't get the switch out.

If there is no way to remove the switch for the old mags, I'm going to have to find a way to remove the sleeve on my hotlips and put it in a newer C mag (which I'd have to go buy).
Then I'd be stuck with a useless 4C mag sitting in my house.

HELP please.

Re: can\'t remove switch assembly on mag! Please HELP!

IIRC there is a large aluminum ring with dimples around the top of it that is screwed down over the TOP of the switch that will either require a special tool (I think Flashlight King sells'em), or if you are lucky and it isn't on too tight you might get away with snap-ring pliers or even a needlenose pair of pliers and unscrew it that way. The switch then comes out the TOP of the light.

Good luck...(or just buy a new-version Mag for $15 bucks or so)...

Re: can\'t remove switch assembly on mag! Please HELP!

Mr. Mimizu ,
I have just completed an mod on a old M@G 2c myself .
The problem is that the switch on an old m@g comes out the front not the back like the new version . In front of of the switch you will see a brass ring with two holes in it across from each other. That is the retaining ring for the switch , you have to make a tool to loosen the ring . Then you can push the switch out from the back of the tube with a pipe or something . Problem is the ring camming on the side of the body tub . Force the switch and ring out , if the ring brakes it doesent matter , you dont need the ring later . Just be carfull that the switch doesent fly all over the place when it comes out /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif.The allen key for the switch is 1/6th by the way. As far as the tool you have to make to loosen the switch . I used two long 4mm screws
through a peice of steel . slowly turn the ring till it is loose , it is not glued . Good luck ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Kenny

Re: can\'t remove switch assembly on mag! Please HELP!

I was just about to mod my old style 2c magg.
I didn't know it was this kind of a hassle.
I may still try it though just for fun. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Re: can\'t remove switch assembly on mag! Please HELP!

Here's a Mag-Lite Switch Repair page.

Re: can\'t remove switch assembly on mag! Please HE

Thanks for the help guys!
I took the ring off and used a long mallet handle to knock out the switch and of course 6 pieces go flying all over from the switch. But it took no effort figuring out how the thing went back together. I'm pretty much ready to get the mod done.

Re: can\'t remove switch assembly on mag! Please HE

Wow, glad you got it resolved even if it took some brute force. The Cookbook was written for new-style D Mags, currently they're the only ones I have. Good luck with the rest of your mod /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Re: can\'t remove switch assembly on mag! Please HE

Oh sorry I missed this thread in time, Ginseng has the old 3C, and so does my friend. I'm doing a pictorial on cleaning M*g contacts, so I have to take apart all of the M*g switch assemblies in total.

Plastic spanner wrench is here, not that expensive:

http://www.orderoutdoors.com/msr_1.html

But you could probably improvise, using penetrating oil to make the threaded ring easier to turn. Maybe a compass like thing, with metal pointed tips; I forget what you call it, but it might have enough leverage. Then again, on many automobiles the steering column ignition switch housing/collar is held in place with an anti-theft bolt that has a head that breaks off on installation such that you cannot get a wrench on the rounded/broken off head. But this has little effect on salvage yard workers, they just take a center punch and hammer, hit on the outer edges at proper angle, and you can typically, easily 'back' the bolt out on it's threads. Can't get much of a good angle in a M*Glite body; maybe a very thin shaft small straight edge screwdriver(set of jewelers screwdrivers) could be lightly knocked on with taps from a smaller hammer, to back the ring out on it's threads???

So it looks like the switch assembly itself is the same as the newer C models. I'm wondering if the switch assembly is easily to pry apart to get inside it. Next week I'll take and/or break one apart for inspection to look at the contacts inside the switch itself, like I did with the D-Cell switch. Hope I don't break that one too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I'm using a 2mm allen head wrench BTW, seems to fit well.

Assuming you have the correct size allen wrench, did I not read somewhere that you could just drop the switch assembly in the older C-cells, just like the newer models; down out the body at the tail cap end, and not even bother with the retaining ring/cur-clip?