4x4Dragon
Flashlight Enthusiast
like the title says, just looking for a pic of this combo
newest KL1 on the 1x123 vital gear clickie body.
thnx
newest KL1 on the 1x123 vital gear clickie body.
thnx
PIC REQUEST: New Style KL1 on FB1/Vital Gear body
- Thread starter 4x4Dragon
- Start date
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I can't give you a picture, but I CAN tell you my VG FB1 *won't work* with either a KL4, or the new Kl1 head. I spent two whole evenings trying to get it to work, with no luck.
The VG FB1 works perfectly with my 1st gen. KL1, and that's where it is. But I *specifically* bought it to put the new Kl1 head onto it, and mine won't work.
I know other's have this combination working with *no modifications* at all, but I must have dwawn the short straw in the 'Vital Gear FB1 lottery'.
Obviously, dimensions must vary in the Vital gear bodies.
Plus, they have virtually no spring in the tail end, and that is the problem. I can get the 4th gen KL1 head to work on the VG FB1 body, but then the switch doesn't work *at all*.
I'm rather annoyed at this situation, but I don't have the money to play the 'Vital Gear FB1 lottery' again. YMMV /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
The VG FB1 works perfectly with my 1st gen. KL1, and that's where it is. But I *specifically* bought it to put the new Kl1 head onto it, and mine won't work.
I know other's have this combination working with *no modifications* at all, but I must have dwawn the short straw in the 'Vital Gear FB1 lottery'.
Obviously, dimensions must vary in the Vital gear bodies.
Plus, they have virtually no spring in the tail end, and that is the problem. I can get the 4th gen KL1 head to work on the VG FB1 body, but then the switch doesn't work *at all*.
I'm rather annoyed at this situation, but I don't have the money to play the 'Vital Gear FB1 lottery' again. YMMV /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
14C
Enlightened
I got my first VG FB1 to work consistently by very carefully pressing the leaf springs DOWN (toward the switch itself)just a bit. Other VG FB1's I have work fine with my Kl1 Gen. 1, Gen. 3 and Gen. 4. right out of the package.
Sorry no pics...digicam went south quite a while back and I have not gotten another.
Sorry no pics...digicam went south quite a while back and I have not gotten another.
vcal
Flashlight Enthusiast
@Gandalf-
Question for you:
When you tried your NEW KL1 and KL4
heads, did you shake the assembled light to listen for "battery rattle"-(loose endplay)
If there IS battery rattle, then obviously you need to "lengthen" the cell you're using. -Tiny magnet or neatly folded Al foil attached to bottom of battery should do it.
If there is NO battery rattle, unscrew the tailcap (leaving the battery in), and ground the base of he flashlight with the negative (bottom) of the cell.
This SHOULD cause light to come on.
If it does Not, then you have an open circuit problem on the HEAD of the light.
-That's what happened to me!
To solve the problem, I just put a SMALL bit of Al foil up INTO the head-past the threaded portion, to establish electrical contact with the barrel part.
With the battery in, the barrel was not able to actually reach the (shiny) contact way up into the head.
Tolerances are EXTREMELY close (lengthwise) with this design.
also, try different cell brands.
Having probs. with my browser now<, i"ll have to finish later. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/huh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Question for you:
When you tried your NEW KL1 and KL4
heads, did you shake the assembled light to listen for "battery rattle"-(loose endplay)
If there IS battery rattle, then obviously you need to "lengthen" the cell you're using. -Tiny magnet or neatly folded Al foil attached to bottom of battery should do it.
If there is NO battery rattle, unscrew the tailcap (leaving the battery in), and ground the base of he flashlight with the negative (bottom) of the cell.
This SHOULD cause light to come on.
If it does Not, then you have an open circuit problem on the HEAD of the light.
-That's what happened to me!
To solve the problem, I just put a SMALL bit of Al foil up INTO the head-past the threaded portion, to establish electrical contact with the barrel part.
With the battery in, the barrel was not able to actually reach the (shiny) contact way up into the head.
Tolerances are EXTREMELY close (lengthwise) with this design.
also, try different cell brands.
Having probs. with my browser now<, i"ll have to finish later. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/huh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Re: PIC REQUEST: New Style KL1 on FB1/Vital Gear b
FWIW, the FB1/KL1 DEFINITELY out throws the Micra by a long shot. The first FB1 body that i received did have a few hiccups. The head and body needed to be tightened to a certain level and the tail spring needed to be adjusted. I got a replacement and everything is perfect. It is now my EDC. I still like the Micra styling though.
FWIW, the FB1/KL1 DEFINITELY out throws the Micra by a long shot. The first FB1 body that i received did have a few hiccups. The head and body needed to be tightened to a certain level and the tail spring needed to be adjusted. I got a replacement and everything is perfect. It is now my EDC. I still like the Micra styling though.
vcal
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: PIC REQUEST: New Style KL1 on FB1/Vital Gear b
Truly, for it's size -a killer light when run on the 3.7 V Lion. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Truly, for it's size -a killer light when run on the 3.7 V Lion. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Re: PIC REQUEST: New Style KL1 on FB1/Vital Gear b
The combo will work if you adjust (slightly pry open) the leaf springs between the switch and the battery. For long-term reliability, I would recommend putting something elastic under the leaf springs. Reward for this little surgery is a slightly brigher KL1/4 than on SF E1e body.
The combo will work if you adjust (slightly pry open) the leaf springs between the switch and the battery. For long-term reliability, I would recommend putting something elastic under the leaf springs. Reward for this little surgery is a slightly brigher KL1/4 than on SF E1e body.
