Mag Lite Switch Removal

I have a Mage Lite "Rechargeable System" that has a bad switch. I need to disassemble the flashlight. Can anyone tell me or point me at a link that will tell me how to disassemble the flashlight.

Thanks

Steven
[email protected]

There's a procedure at http://www.orderoutdoors.com/msr_2.html that addresses the C and D cell versions. It may help you in what you're trying to do.

Tools and parts are identified at
http://www.orderoutdoors.com/msr_1.html

I've never dealt with orderoutdoors.com, but it appears that this information may be applicable to your situation. I hope it at least gets you pointed in the right direction.

Good luck.

Yes, I have tried these instructions. The rechargeable is a completely different set up however. It has the contact rings for recharging. I have a feeling that the thing unscrews at one of the rings but it is either mighty tight or thread sealer has been used on it.

ag4gt,

You're intuition is correct. You need a couple strap wrenches, and the light comes apart at the wrings. Strap wrenches are cheap at WalMart, etc.

Bill

Here you go.

Disassembly of the MagCharger

Tools:
1. Strap wrench
2. adjustable face pin spanner wrench, 3mm pin diameter, 2.25 inch maximum spread
3. Small hex wrench, 2mm I think

Steps:
1. Remove tailcap, battery, facecap and bulb.
2. Apply strap wrench to the section of the body with the switch. Grab the body on the knurling and twist. The threading is regular, not reverse. Lefty loosey. This will allow you to remove the battery tube. Note that the rear charging contact ring is actually integral to the battery tube. A small layer of anodizing has simply been machined away to reveal bare aluminum.
3. Once the battery tube is off, tap the head back towards the exposed part of the switch and slip it off. Be careful removing what looks like a graphite impregnated shim washer. This is what allows the head to rotate smoothly during the cammed focusing process.
4. Apply the strap wrench to the head tube. Insert the pins of the adjustable pin spanner into the holes in the charging core. If you do not see the holes in the aluminum plate (which is the forward charging ring), simply rotate the plastic insulating piece around using the pin spanner until the holes in the plastic piece line up with the holes in the aluminum piece. Twist until the charger core begins to unscrew. Unscrew the charging core (which I believe contains at least a diode) and remove.
5. Now you will be looking at the rear of the switch core. Remove the rubber switch cover by inserting a flat, smooth tool under an edge and prying up. You'll notice that the MC rubber switch cover has an additional rubber plunger that the regular Mag covers do not. This gives the cover a less flimsy feel than the much cheaper regular Mags.
6. Push the switch into the depressed or "constant on" position. Continue to push down firmly while pushing backwards. The switch core will drop out the back of the head section.
7. At this point, the rest should be self explanatory. Use a small hex wrench to remove the cam following screws on the bulb pedestal. The pin receiver assembly should then slide out. Keep track of the spring and cap. Push out the plastic pin receiver slug through the back of the metal shell.

At this point, the MC internals are almost completely disassembled. You can remove the front charging ring to examine the contact wire that closes the circuit to the battery positive contact but it's not all that worthwhile. I have not been able to push the very core of the charging core out to see exactly what is in there. I have not attempted to disassemble the pin receiver slug. If you do manage to get it open, please let me know how you did it and if it is reversible.

Wilkey

BTW,

How do you know the switch is bad? Is it still under warranty? If so, your best bet is to just send it in for service and/or parts replacement.

Wilkey

Well, I do not know for sure the switch is bad, but the light does not work. I have eliminated all other possibilities, so "something" is bad in that section. The light was a yard sale find. It had corroded batteries in it when I bought it but for a dollar I took a chance. It worked for about 3 years and then quit. I was just trying to salvage it if I could. An $80 flashlight is something I couldn't just pitch when it quit working.

Thanks Wilkey I will give it a try.

ag4gt,

since you have an older decrepit MC, it is quite likely the reason(s) for the light not working are corroded and/or oxidized electrical contact surfaces/points. Yeah, somebody ought to do a tutorial with pictures for cleaning these M*g switch assemblies /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif...me I just post 'useless' posts. The new M*gChr switch assembly I ordered may not be exactly the same as yours, some M*g switch assemblies/parts have changed slightly in design over the years.

I'm working on such a tutorial, but not sure it will get done in time for most (too late for some who could have used this information last week, or the week before)...seems like there is an onslaught of these bad/oxidized contacts problems popping up just now????

If you like I could provide a link for buying a new switch assembly in California, but it costs $10.50 plus UPS shipping, which ran me $6+, and I live just 40 miles from that place that has a good stock of these replacement switch assemblies (link is in another thread, which some haven't yet looked for). Note, what we refer to as switch 'assembly'; in contrast to that actual switch, which is the small plastic piece with the 'clicky' button for on/off. That part easily splits into two pieces, but you have to be careful not to break off the two thin mounting studs on one half the the plastic switch. Inside there are contacts that you can clean up with suitable tools...I have a special 'tool' I use to clean up contacts /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif. But you DO need to remove the two brass roller pins, if you want to take out the nickel plated brass holder for that plastic bi-pin socket, as both the inner bore and outside surfaces will need to be cleaned to remove oxidation from contact surfaces.

But there are other contact surfaces you need to clean also. BTW, unless the older M*gChr switch assemblies are made differently, you do NOT need to use a 2mm allen head wrench to remove the 2 brass roller pins for the cammed operation, the plastic bi-pin plug/socket (Ginseng calls is a receptacle). Just push on top of the bi-pin socket, with soft tool like a wooden dowel or pencil, and it will pop right out the bottom. The front of this plastic bi-pin socket has a slight 45 degree tapered edge, which is all that holds it in place with spring pressure from below. I haven't yet taken the bi-pin socket apart to take pictures of, but this also has thin electrical contacts that must be cleaned if you ever want maximum lumens coming out of a high-wattage upgrade bulb.

Too bad Ginseng doesn't have any close-up pictures to accompany, showing you how to do, with all of the instructions he has listed above. Of course, if he has spare time on his hands; I'll gladly add his sharp close-up pictures and instructions for the basic disassembly of the whole light (while I work on getting sharp pictures of the insides of the actual switch assembly) to my thread I'm working on. That would certainly be 'useful' and helpful to me, if no one else.

Oh ya, the M*gChr switch assembly, along with all new M*g switch assemblies, ships with 'new style' M*g rubber switch cover, no special rubber ships with the M*gChr anymore /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

BTW ag4gt, you might want to edit your thread title to state "M*gChr" as opposed to M*glite switch removal, they are different animals.

Edit: Oops, my bag 'ol rubber switch covers in my last order, does in fact have a special M*gChr switch cover with thick firm inner round piece of rubber to contact the clickie portion of the switch...my bad. I'm just a bit textually changed and have trouble understanding some descriptions of other CPF members...picture worth a thousand words /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif.

I managed to get my Mag Lite Rechargeable apart last night. It was difficult because of the corrosion from the old batteries. I used a strap wrench. I was one try away from using a pipe wrench when it came loose. The switch was ok, the connections between the charging section and the switch section was not. It was very corroded. I also found the diode that Ginseng was talking about. It is mounted on a spring and looks like just a pin that connects to the forward recharging ring. I cleaned everything up, lubricated the threads with antiseeze and the o-rings with Vaseline and put it back together. It works perfectly. I can also take it apart now without the use of a strap wrench. Thank you all for the information. You saved an $80 flashlight from the scrap heap.

I'm very pleased you were able to get it working again!

Now of course, you realize you're going to get ragged on for not posting pictures of the internals. Or maybe Oodles will just rag on me some more.

Wilkey

If you wish, I can disassemble it again and take pictures! I don't need a wrench now.

Ag,

If you would be willing to do that I'll host them for you. PM me for more info.

Wilkey