Hello, does anyone know the size of the torx bit I need to get off these tiny little screws? I want to remove the clip and my eyeglass mini screwdriver wont do the trick so it looks like I need an actual Torx Bit...I went to wal-mart and couldn't find any near as small as what it appears to be...if anyone has taken theirs off and could tell me the proper bit to get and who might have it that would be great. Thanks! =)
HELP! Nuwai Q-III torx bit size needed .......
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Osprey_Guy
Enlightened
Re: HELP! Nuwai Q-III torx bit size needed .....
You'll need a #5 Torx driver.
You'll need a #5 Torx driver.
Re: HELP! Nuwai Q-III torx bit size needed .....
Thanks guys....I'll look for that #5, the smallest I could find at wal-mart was size 15! I'll try a few more places tomorrow and if all else failes I'll just order one off the good 'ol internet =)
Thanks guys....I'll look for that #5, the smallest I could find at wal-mart was size 15! I'll try a few more places tomorrow and if all else failes I'll just order one off the good 'ol internet =)
Osprey_Guy
Enlightened
Re: HELP! Nuwai Q-III torx bit size needed .....
Any "good" electronics store (not Radio Shack) will have small torx drivers.
Husky makes a Torx Driver with changeable bits with sizes that go down to #5. I think I bought mine at Home Depot (or Lowe's) for under $10. there are a couple of other, similar interchangeable drivers out there in that same price range. With more and more Torx screws turning up, these are very handy to have. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Any "good" electronics store (not Radio Shack) will have small torx drivers.
Husky makes a Torx Driver with changeable bits with sizes that go down to #5. I think I bought mine at Home Depot (or Lowe's) for under $10. there are a couple of other, similar interchangeable drivers out there in that same price range. With more and more Torx screws turning up, these are very handy to have. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Re: HELP! Nuwai Q-III torx bit size needed .....
Yes at the time I thought to take the clip off the only store open was of course wal-mart /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I will definatly try Home Depot or Menards tomorrow, thanks again for the info!
Yes at the time I thought to take the clip off the only store open was of course wal-mart /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I will definatly try Home Depot or Menards tomorrow, thanks again for the info!
Argh!! So I spent 8 bux on a micro torx set that included the #5 that was the only way to get it and it snapped off!!! I don't see how it's possible to remove these screws they are just on there too tight! argh...anyone have any other suggestions?
Osprey_Guy
Enlightened
Re: HELP! Nuwai Q-III torx bit size needed .....
I was able to remove the screws on mine with very little effort.
Perhaps all you need is to give 'em a little squirt of WD-40 to enable you to get them moving more freely.
I wonder if they used locktite on these, and perhaps on your particular light they happened to have used a stronger type (maybe red instead of blue locktite...blue locktite bond can be broken mechanically w/o the need for heat). If you applied some heat directly to the screws, it might break the bond. Perhaps a very careful application of heat using a soldering iron with a very fine tip? Not too long as you don't want to harm the light in any way. Locktite requires that you reach a temp. of 300 degrees in order to soften the bond...shouldn't take but a few seconds to achieve that.
Good luck. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I was able to remove the screws on mine with very little effort.
Perhaps all you need is to give 'em a little squirt of WD-40 to enable you to get them moving more freely.
I wonder if they used locktite on these, and perhaps on your particular light they happened to have used a stronger type (maybe red instead of blue locktite...blue locktite bond can be broken mechanically w/o the need for heat). If you applied some heat directly to the screws, it might break the bond. Perhaps a very careful application of heat using a soldering iron with a very fine tip? Not too long as you don't want to harm the light in any way. Locktite requires that you reach a temp. of 300 degrees in order to soften the bond...shouldn't take but a few seconds to achieve that.
Good luck. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
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I too was figuring this out, until I found this thread.
Yes, a Torx T5 driver is necessary, but not all drivers are created equal.
And a cheaper driver sometimes performs even better...
Tried two T5 drivers from my local hardware stores. The $2.69 Rubicon performs very well and can provide better torque, so even threadlocked screws can be loosened. Apply some pressure and a bit more counterclockwise torque on the bit, a small "pop" sound means you have successfully broken up the threadlock bond.
The $4.25 Sunflag, however, won't do the trick and the the driver keeps slipping inside the bit too often, wearing out the bit even more. It can loosen non-threadlocked screws, but it doesn't feel good at all and cannot tighten a screw effectively.
I found out that just one of the screws on the 301/303's clip is threadlocked. With the right driver, removal of the clip is a piece of cake and requires no addition heating.
It is important to make sure the screw bits aren't worn out; otherwise, not one single T5 driver will be able to act on the screws effectively, and a pair of small pliers may be needed. When this happens, clamp the pliers onto either one screw and turn counterclockwise. At least one of them should loosen up. The remaining screw (with more threadlocking) should also do the same by wiggling the clip a few times, after which it should come off easily with just any T5 driver.
I was able to remove the clip from the Q3 that has the worn-out screw bits. The rest of my 303/301s also had the clip screws loosened up, but the task was even much easier since all of those screw bits are in good shape.
Yes, a Torx T5 driver is necessary, but not all drivers are created equal.
And a cheaper driver sometimes performs even better...
Tried two T5 drivers from my local hardware stores. The $2.69 Rubicon performs very well and can provide better torque, so even threadlocked screws can be loosened. Apply some pressure and a bit more counterclockwise torque on the bit, a small "pop" sound means you have successfully broken up the threadlock bond.
The $4.25 Sunflag, however, won't do the trick and the the driver keeps slipping inside the bit too often, wearing out the bit even more. It can loosen non-threadlocked screws, but it doesn't feel good at all and cannot tighten a screw effectively.
I found out that just one of the screws on the 301/303's clip is threadlocked. With the right driver, removal of the clip is a piece of cake and requires no addition heating.
It is important to make sure the screw bits aren't worn out; otherwise, not one single T5 driver will be able to act on the screws effectively, and a pair of small pliers may be needed. When this happens, clamp the pliers onto either one screw and turn counterclockwise. At least one of them should loosen up. The remaining screw (with more threadlocking) should also do the same by wiggling the clip a few times, after which it should come off easily with just any T5 driver.
I was able to remove the clip from the Q3 that has the worn-out screw bits. The rest of my 303/301s also had the clip screws loosened up, but the task was even much easier since all of those screw bits are in good shape.
