Project: KL1 multi-battery light

Hello all,

Recently, I made the decision to move up from AA M@aglite (Opalec Newbeam, Kroll tailcap modded) to something that could A)Run a KL1 4th Gen, B)Be cross-compatible with SF parts, C)Use most types of batteries I might run into (AA alkaline, NiMH, LiOn, Lithium, Pila, CR123A, R123A), and D)be as or more reliable than the Mag (a tall order, this thing is pretty great). Now, with those criteria in mind, I am looking for the ultimate package while spending the least amount of money. Several options have presented themselves, and I wanted feedback from the experts. Here they are, in no particular order:

Vital Gear FB3 body KL1 head, Pila 2X150s as primaries, 2XAA backup.

Balrog BE3 body, KL1 head, MCE2S two stage, Pila 2X150s as primaries, 3XAA backup (using DSPeck AA tube extender).

UBH Body, KL1 head, MCE2S two stage tailcap, Pila 2X150s as primaries, 3XAA backup (Using AA tube extender).

Surefire L4 tube w/CR123A tube extender, KL1 head, MCE2S two stage tailcap, Pila 2X150s as primaries, 2XAA backup.

Some questions that have arisen: First, I have heard of problems with the VG tailcap switch and battery fit, so this option seems less likely, at least until the bugs are fixed. Second, will 2 AA be enough to run the KL1 for any useful length of time? What about 3 AA? The ability to use any battery that I can find is a *HUGE* part of this project. Finally, to segeue, the MCE2S switch should allow for weaker batteries to run the KL1, correct? With this in mind, what resistor setting will work over the *entire* range of battery options to give the longest life with AA?

Right now, from my perspective the Balrog is in the lead, because it can take the 3XAA. The UBH can as well, but I have not seen the finish or workmanship on this yet, so cannot comment. The only disadvantage to the BE3 is availibility, I have yet to succeed in contacting Balrog. So, please by all means critique my ideas, and thanks.

D-R

I personally think you're getting a little too crazy right from the start. Each of those options is ALOT of money (each is at least $150). You want something thats nicer, brighter, and has longer run time than your Opalec? How about the $20 UK 4AA eLED. Spend your extra money on 8 AA nimh batteries and a charger. If you really need high output (much brighter than KL1), pick up the 4 watt rechargeable lamp assembly too. Total cost: less than $50.

The KL1 will NOT run all that well on 2AA. It'll run quite well on 3AA, but that form factor sucks IMHO...

KL1 runtime on 2AA:



UK4AA runtime:




Mark

MinJin,

First of all, thanks for those runtime graphs! You are totally correct, the AA is rather anemic. However, it did answer my biggest question- whether or not the KL1 head can be powered at any useful brightness with the lowest common denominator. I would by no means ever use these for primaries, but the sheer fecundity and ubiquity of the AA power source means I *need* to be able to use them with this light. As stated in my title, this flashlights purpose is to provide a Surefire ruggedness/quality with the ability to eat any battery you are likely to run across (within reason). A lot of my friends use SF with CR123A, but others use AA. In an emergency situation, I want the option of using both. The AAs would merely allow me to have a functional light until I could make it back to/recharge my primaries. I do not simply want something with better performance than the Newbeam, I want a platform that is capable in a far broader spectrum than my current EDC. When you look at it, there are massive numbers of SF compatible components, while Mag is pretty much a decade past its prime. Cost is absolutely no object: if this light will do what I want it to, that should not be a factor. But I want to select the initial components carefully, with an eye toward not painting myself into a corner. Rechargeable LiIon batts are coming into their own, and I think will only get better. This neccesitates getting a light that can take either CR123A diameter or AA diamter batts.
The dual-power tailcap was an addition to this requirement in order to perhaps squeeze more runtime out of anemic alkalines. What I am trying to determine is, what resistor is best if the lowest common denominator is AA? Thanks again guys, and keep this going.

D-R

I agree with mijin. I know you don't want a "lesser" light then you got,and since you like it, aside from the power, i would suggest another mini with a lux sandwich like a madmax, lamda, or bad boy. add a kroll, other small upgrade's, you want and have two light's you like: one sorta hi power one not, that both take the AA's you like, an nothing over $100.
I know you said price is no worry, but trying to get some of the stuff to work togather you mentioned can be finicky,
so way spend big on a iffy situation that could become an expensive paper weight right when you need it? so go with what you know?
Or a streamlight lux Jr would work well, be solid, bright, and be a form factor you like.VDG

MinJin,

Do you have any runtime graphs for the Newbeam with 2XAA for comparison? For that matter, any direct stats comparison with the KL1 (CP, Lux, etc.) I don't really have a good grasp of how the two compare. Thanks.

D-R

Look at all the stickies in the Reviews forum. More info there than you could possibly need...

Mark

Great configuration I like it

Thanks Torch-Boy. I realize it is by no means an orthodox configuration, but I am trying to do something different with it.

D-R