Opalec and E2E bezels?

Does anyone have the info on the Newbeam mod (what its voltage range is), and what lights it can be used with? I saw a mod where someone dropped it into a SF E2E bezel, is anyone selling this mod? Is it then still compitble with standard AA batts (i.e. can you still use almost drained AA with good light output)? If I was able to get a modded bezel, could it be used with CR123A batts without blowing it? I am trying to figure out if I should go with a KL1 head or a modded Newbeam/E2E head on my multi-battery SF clone project. Thanks.

D-R

Here is an Opalec module in an Exe head. the head needs to be modified for this as well as the Opalec.
Battery configurations won't change, you can still use 2xAA or 1x123, not sure about more though ...

bernhard

I recall a gent at Opelec stating that 6 volts was OK on the NewBeam but they didn't publicize this. There is a world of divverence between the NewBeam and the KL1 in terms of output!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

EDIT: I know a guy who did a few of these but he isn't doing them anymore. Good luck and have fun! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

From the Opalec Support FAQ,
[ QUOTE ]
The maximum voltage capability of the NewBeam has changed. We now build the NewBeam with either of two control circuits, which have different voltage ranges. One version will operate up to 8-9 Volts, although the LED current regulation begins to degrade above about 6 Volts. The other version only operates up to a little over 5 Volts, and then draws excessive current above about 6 Volts and will be damaged. You can tell the two apart by looking with a magnifier at the parts under the clear epoxy. If you see a rectangular silver colored part labeled "1B", you have the version which works above 5 volts. If you do not see this part, you have the lower voltage version. Again please be aware that we do not encourage use of the NewBeam above the standard 2 x 1.5 volts. If you want to do custom work, please keep these limitations in mind.


[/ QUOTE ]
Hope this helps,
Pat

Pat, thanx a lot! That info was really useful !

Don ... yeah ... there once was a cool guy selling too few of those ... and yes again ... brightness isn't their strength, but runtime outlasts most others ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

bernie

Deear, I can't understand why you'd want a 2x123 Newbeam. There's some attraction to 1x123 (i.e. a Newbeam modded into an E head on an E1e body) since you get a nice compact long-running light. With 2x123, I think most of us would go for more brightness since the Newbeam already has plenty of runtime even with 1x123. You also have a lot more possibilities open with 2x123, like using a KL4 head with a McE2S two stage switch, so you have both high and low beams.

paulr,

Call me crazy. I have an odd taste in flashlights I suppose. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Does anyone know who this guy was, or if any of these things ever show on the B/S/T? Would be interested- *VERY* interested- if someone had one to sell.

D-R

To follow up, I probably should explain: I like the styling of the SF E series, and I want to be able to use the TID. I also need a light that has *really* good runtime. The Newbeam fits this requirement. Finally, the E series tubes will allow me to use any size batteries. This is also a big deal. I can live with the Newbeam, if it comes in a more upgradable package. I realize that there are more capable lights. This is just what I want. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

D-R

D-R,

I just received this E2e bezel mod from Chop. Twas modified to host a LE with LuxIII/TXOJ/NG500. I have the tailcap set as 15ohms so that it will have a relatively high 'low'. You can just get the two-stage switch module if you want to retain the 'stock' looks.


It's a little high on the budget, but you'll be able to get a "similar" opalec light with the ability to go high on a twist.

DEEAR ... McGizmo did those, but he isn't any more (too busy with other things) and I do not think there are that many around.
bernhard

Bernhand,
Just to give D-R a few ideas, what do you think is the resistor value that would approximates an Opalec with an Aleph-2/LuxIII ?

I believe the using a LuxIII with lower vf, such as ???J vs ???K, would increase the overall runtime. -- pls correct me if I'm wrong

"J" runtime is a bit greater than "K", correct.

On the resistor value ... if you are using a 1x123 / NG / LuxIII set-up the resistor should be lower than 15 ohms to be as bright as the Opalec, and I do not have such resistors, so I cannot make any valid comment here, sorry.

bernhard

Are there any mods that are being done to the KL1 and KL4 heads to increase runtime? If I was to go with either of the KL series, my primary cells would be Pila 150s X 2. In ANY of the mods I am considering, those are going to be the primaries. But if I am caught out in the middle of nowhere, with no access to a charger, and only AA batteries to be found, I would like to be able to use them. In this case, runtime is more important to me. The 2-stage tailcap from McGizmo sounds like just what I need, but what would the optimal reistor setting be to maximize the AA? 30 ohm or 60 ohm? My plan is to carry a KL1 or KL4 head on a Balrog BE3 with AA UBH extender, pop in 3 Pila 150s, and use that as my primary. As soon as they run low, pop those in my backup, Balrog BE3/SF E2 body w/CR123A extender/UBH w/ extender, and use up any remaining juice (pull them down to cutoff level). Then, stick backup AA in the Primary, then use them in the secondary until they stop regulating the Opalec. I have been in situations similar to this before, and don't want to again. No matter how well you plan, something always makes a mockery of planning.

The *only* issue I may have with this is I have heard that the KL4 should not be used at higher power. Will 3X Pila 150S (12.45v) overdrive/burn out the KL4? The KL1? Thanks.

D-R

D-R,
I've been thinking like you before -- A do-it-all head. But CPF bug has bitten me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

A Stock-KL1 can run with 2xAA, but I believe runtime would only be 1.5 hours regulated. Its stock circuit is relatively inefficient compared with dedicated boost or buck drivers. The stock KL1 draws about 350ma. KL4 uses LuxV and draws 700ma and in its stock form is very hot after running 10-15 minutes continuous.

So that brings us back to the question of extended runtime. Have you every explored the fact that you can bring along three (3) CR123a batteries with you in a tight sealed container or ziplock, instead of looking at two AAs? I think a 3xAAA would kinda be long. I believe 3xCR123a on stock KL1 already gives you at least 6-7 hours of regulation, plus at LOT more hours in usuable light. I think SF website has info on this. You may have the stock KL1 modded with an average 1-watt LS, an R2H maybe. (The older KL1 are more friendly to modder). Plus, add a two-stage tailcap to lower the current draw. Moreover, when CR123 batteries' capacity fall below regulation, they still give you a LONG 'moon mode'. Pilas has their protection circuit and cuts you off WITHOUT A WARNING.
KL1 description using 1 or 2 CR123a batteries

But aside from modding and the tailcap, which could set you back a couple 50's, why not just buy an Inova X5T which is rated for its LONG runtime with CR123. This will become your backup light, instead of looking or having to carry extra batteries.

Just my 2 centavos worth /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

3xPila's will kill the KL4 and KL1!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

I am not following your "plan" at all because it sounds like you are going from a primary with high voltage to a back up that is hardly anything?!?!? You might consider a DownBoy converter that can handle the 3xPilas and it will go in a simple DD mode when Vf of the LED is greater than the Vin. If you get a good low Vf LED, Direct Drive of it on 2x AA might be acceptable to you? You can also use a two stage switch on the Down Boy and get a real long run time on your primaries?!? If you were to do a DB400 in an Aleph 2 head on 2xPila with say a 60 ohm switch, you would get good light for a long time!

Don,

Thanks for the warning! Definitely don't want to kill them! Do you any mods that reduce the drain of the KL1 to make it more friendly to lower power batteries (1X CR123A)? I have heard about the MCKL4 BH600 H2H, is there a mod you do (or could do) to the KL1 to improve runtime? And what resistance would you recommend for your 2-stage switch to improve runtime with the AAs? Thanks.

D-R