Modified 500mA KL1 runs at 350 in boost mode?

I have one of CM's modified KL1s, this one received a boost to 500mA and a nice Luxeon R2K with a "Y0"-ish tint (sure looks like my TY0Ls). Very nice light, very happy with it. BRIGHT!

Ordered a couple of GP 1100mAH NiMHs from Batterystation, built a spacer around a Mag bulb collar that I had lying around, it's the perfect height. I had to add some solder blobs to the GP cells, even though GP says "don't solder directly to the battery" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif gotta do what I gotta do. The cells seem fine, read the tips from js about soldering Tigerlight packs. Work hard, work fast, get in and get out in 2-3 seconds if possible. Don't block the safety vents.

So now I have a KL1 on a L4 body with two NiMH and free light. However, I've noticed an interesting phenomenon - when the modified KL1 is running in boost mode, either on single-cell CR123A or 2xNiMH, it only operates at stock current. It's the same brightness as my other stock KL1 on 1 cell.

When I put it on 2xCR123A, that's where it really shines - it really stomps the stock KL1, which it SHOULD with 500mA. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Has anybody else noticed this phenomenon with modified KL1s?

a bit of topic, are you sure you are comparing your R2K with TYOL? 2 color is on the warm side, while YO is on the bluish side. Maybe you mean TVOL? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

i don't have my KL1 modified in its original circuit to pump more light, since it is less efficient that way. Instead, i used VIP driver to drive my lux in my KL1 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Your experience might be the norm, but then again it might not be since you have a high Vf of the luxeon /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif or because you ruined the GP battery by soldering straight to the batt /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Yup, strange as it seems, it is closer to the TY0Ls than the TV1Ks I've worked with. It has the HID-blue-ish tint that I like so no complaints here even if the bin code says 2 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Runtime with brand new NiMHs (not yet cycled) - 1:20. 80 minutes. Probably will push that to 90+ once they're broken in.

KL1s are frighteningly efficient at getting all the energy out of the cell, they will suck NiMH down to 0.95V! Found out one of mine got that treatment. I should use 'em with primary cells - they make the perfect 2-cell battery eater.

I'm just wondering about a theory that the sense resistors are controlling the KL1's preset current in buck mode ONLY, and not boost mode. Thus two cells and buck mode would see 500mA, whereas boost mode would see only 350mA.

Are you running two 2/3A's in your mod?

Bill

wow, weird R2K indeed.

Btw, what i meant about efficiency is not how good it is at sucking the power from the battery, but how good it is at converting that power into light. I remembered someone told me KL1 only has 65% efficiency if you are running boost and this number is decreasing as you boost your current.
btw, do you know your capacity of your cells?

FWIW, SF has indicated on its brochure that KL1 runs two lumens lower when running with E1e vs E2e. Either it has something to do with the draw capacity of a single cell vs 2-cells or overall circuit design.

That's what I'm thinking, SF may run a lower current in boost mode and this has not been addressed by the mod (no offence to the modders, just investigating why this phenomenon occurs). Different set of sense resistors perhaps?

I'm using the GP 2/3A NiMH, 1100mAH cells. $1.99 each at Batterystation /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thanks for reply. What charger are you using to charge these short cells? I have a vanson, and I have to rig up weird things to make a connection to short batteries like 1/2D's, sub C's, etc.

Bill

Currently I am using a 4AA, 2-channel USB-powered GP charger that I picked up really cheap ($12?) a couple of years back. It's probably a dumb charger, and agreed - it's inconvenient because I have to hook up some springs (from a Mag mod) to get sufficient length to make the connections.

I'm switching to a Maha C777Plus2 soon.