Please help me build a dspeck FF.

I read on here somewhere that you can now get all the part's
to build the fire~fly from the sandwhich shoppe.
Since i am having no luck with the search engine, and no matter what browser i use to acsess the SS, i can't get an idea with out pic's on all the part's needed, and how difficult it will be.
I have been wanting a small bright 1 or 3 watt
LED EDC to add to my tool kit. I love the ARC LSH-P, and want something in that form (or smaller!) feel free to mention what option's you think are important, and i tend to lean toward throw. much appreciated! VDG

Look at this HELP !!! NEED "Fire~Fly" ADVICE in Sandwich Shoppe forum.

Tuning the optic gives a beautiful beam. Almost good as Li14430's beam. Tuning two stage switch make the firefly reliable.

look in the dspeck thread to find instructions on how to tune firefly.

[ QUOTE ]
cy said:
Tuning the optic gives a beautiful beam. Almost good as Li14430's beam. Tuning two stage switch make the firefly reliable.

look in the dspeck thread to find instructions on how to tune firefly.

[/ QUOTE ]

thanks! does the NX0- and fraen come ready to go/drop in
from the SS? I don't mind tuning, just want it to work first
then start fine tuning thing's. VDG

voodoogreg - sorry for not chiming in earlier, but I hadn't looked at this forum for a couple of days.

There is a complete list of parts needed to build a Fire~Fly on the Shoppe, but here it is if you haven't seen it:

From the head end down:
-bezel aka bezel ring
-lens o-ring
-lens
-optic (of your choice) - they are already cut down for use in the FF
-head (the copper part) - comes with O-rings installed (larger on the bezel end, smaller on the body end of the head)
-sandwich of your choice
-retaining ring (or O-ring or thin retaining ring) {rings are AKA snap rings}
-body (either CR2 or standard CR123 body)
-appropriate battery
-2-stage switch if you want it - can be standard 16-ohm or can be 33-ohm (33-ohm switch gives very low LOW level)

The FF is noticeably narrower than the Arc-LS, which makes it easier to pocket. It's also much brighter on the standard BB650/LuxIII sandwich, but of course more drive current=less runtime - it's the usual tradeoff.

Just to throw another monkey-wrench in, you can also trim down an SO17XA reflector to fit the FF, and this does give a very nice beam, too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The FF screws together (all except for the retaining ring - needs pliers), and you'll need a .050" hex-key if you want to install the 2-stage switch. If you just want one level, you don't even need that.

Hope this helps to make up your mind... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif