This post was returned to the thread on 2/8/06.
With the recent explosion of interest in SuperMag mods brought on by the Mag Bi-pin Drop-in Mod, I thought it might be useful to share a page from my hot wire cookbook.
Since the Bi-pin Drop-in mod (BP) is the innovation that has made SuperMag mods so accessible, let's start with that. Simply, the BP mod takes the bi-pin bulb receiver from a $100 light, the Maglite MagCharger, and transplants it into any garden variety $20 D or C-cell Maglite. What this accomplishes is to allow one to use high-performance superbulbs from Welch Allyn directly in the Mag. There's no longer any need to send bi-pin bulbs to Carley for potting in a PR base before they can be used. Now, the entire constellation of bi-pin superbulbs has been rendered drop-in compatible.
Ok, so let's get started.
1. The principal components of a SuperMag mod
a. The bulb: If using a standard Mag which needs PR base bulbs, your options are a bit limited. The easiest option is to push or overdrive. This means using a 3-cell bulb in a 4-cell light, a 5-cell bulb in a 6-cell light and so on. This route is easy, the bulbs are widely available and the consequences of failure are not dire as common bulbs are typically priced at less than $3 a piece. Alternatively, you can select a bare pin (bi-pin) bulb from either Carley or Welch Allyn and have Carley pot it in a PR base for you. This process will take time. Lots of time. Sometimes months. A halfway option is to use a Carley CL912 bi-pin to PR base adapter. This part allows you to stick a bi-pin bulb into into a PR base fitted with two pin sockets. This will work fine as long as bulbs are relatively low power. Below 1.25A and 15W is generally considered safe.
If you have a bi-pin capable torch such as the MagCharger or a MagBP (Mag C/D with the bi-pin drop-in mod) then life is good. You simply buy the Welch Allyn bulb you want (either as part of a group buy or on your own) and stick it in your light.
b. The reflector: If you are using a genuine superbulb, any part that sits near it and is not thermally stable up to 350F+ will be subject to melting. This means the reflector. While the stock unit in the Mag is composed of tough polycarbonate, it will not withstand prolonged exposure to superbulbs. Experience has shown that bulbs above approximately 12 watts of power will deform the reflector given enough time. For example, a 6V 2A bulb. I have found that bulbs around 20 watts will deform the reflector in about 6 minutes. So, what's a flashaholic to do?
For a robust SuperMag setup, an aftermarket aluminum reflector is an absolute must. Carley makes a unit that is almost a direct drop-in to the Mag head. I posted a thread on how to perform this medium difficulty mod. Your best option, however, is to purchase a ready-made drop-in unit. Presently, only modder Fivemega makes drop-in, cammed units that function just like the stocker but will withstand any bulb you're likely to plug in. At one time, modder Otokoyama also made a drop-in unit called the Perfect Mag Reflector (PMR).
One special feature of these aftermarket reflectors is that they can be ordered with "orange peel" texturizing. This means to reflector surface is coated with lumpy but reflective coating that "fuzzes out" the light beam. This is a desirable thing when using superbulbs with their large filaments because it softens the filament artifacts and smooths out the beam while only minimally detracting from throw. This treatment is commonly referred to as "MOP" Medium Orange Peel, "LOP" or "HOP."
c. The lens: The stock Mag C/D lens is made of the same stuff, polycarbonate, as the reflector. So, when using superbulbs, it will suffer from thermal damage just like the reflector. This item must be replaced if you are using superbulbs. CPF-supporting vendor Flashlightlens.com makes replacement lenses for Mags as well as other lights. His UltraClearLens (UCL) is perfect for casual use. These lenses are antireflective coated and superhigh transmission to allow the maximum amount of photons through. If you want a lens that is so clear that it basically looks invisible to the eye, the UCL is your bag. Highly recommended. If, however, you use your lights long and hard, then the Borofloat lens will be your choice. Much more thermal and impact resistant than the UCL at the expense of some transmission, these are perfect for hard use. In a pinch, even the MagCharger mineral glass lens can be used although because of its added thickness, a small gap between the face-cap and Mag head may remain. A 20W bulb will begin melting the stock lens in 4 minutes so don't mess around, upgrade.
Stay tuned for Chapter 2 where we will talk about batteries, the power system, body mods, fine tuning and actual recipes for specific setups.
Wilkey
Questions and Answersb]
[ QUOTE ]
Sinjz asked:I have a quick question. What is the purpose of a cammed reflector when you're using a MOP or HOP. Doesn't the texturizing sort of defeat the whole focus- defocus thing?
[/ QUOTE ]
Answer
Focusing via cam (Maglite) or screw-down (Lumapro) are gross, large scale actions that move the filament large distances relative to the location of the reflector's focal point. That is why you can go from tight spot to massive flood, complete with gaping center hole. Orange peel texturizing as seen in the Carley custom reflectors, Fivemega's drop-ins and Surefire reflectors is a treatment that adds a degree of dispersion to the beam. The effect is much less dramatic than defocusing and it only affects the reflected beam. That is why the effect is exclusively on the focused spot. So, basically to make massive changes to the beam profile, you focus or defocus. To make the thrown spot smoother and more even, texturizing is the key.
Note that there are other types of beam dispersion treatment. Streamlight uses satin polished reflectors in their lamp assemblies (LAs) coupled with slight defocus to achieve a very visually pleasing beam that is effective for close-quarters target acquisition. Many manufacturers also use faceting to achieve a similar effect. In a subsequent chapter, I'll cover other whole beam treatments such as holographic diffusion, the classic "Write Right" mod and bulb etching.
[ QUOTE ]
DarkLight asked:Part or link to this bi pin receiver or is this just a mag charger replacement part?
[/ QUOTE ]
Answer
The bi-pin slug and the surrounding metal collar are part of the MagCharger switch section. This is available as a replacement part. This part, ML108-106, can be purchased from vendors such as www.cases4less.com
[ QUOTE ]
paulr asked:What tools do you need for the BP modification? That means getting the switch out and changing the slug, I guess.
[/ QUOTE ]
Answer
To do the BP mod, the only tool you'll need is a 5/64" hex wrench/Allen key. This is used to remove the cam following bolts in the metal sleeve surrounding the bi-pin slug in the MagCharger switch section and the PR receiver in the Mag C/D assembly. Once the cam following bolts are removed, the key parts simply drop out and can be easily switched. The 5/64" key is also used to remove the entire switch assembly from the Mag C/D. The only exception is for older Mags which require a special two-pin spanner wrench to remove a lock-down collar before the switch section can be pushed out.
With the recent explosion of interest in SuperMag mods brought on by the Mag Bi-pin Drop-in Mod, I thought it might be useful to share a page from my hot wire cookbook.
Since the Bi-pin Drop-in mod (BP) is the innovation that has made SuperMag mods so accessible, let's start with that. Simply, the BP mod takes the bi-pin bulb receiver from a $100 light, the Maglite MagCharger, and transplants it into any garden variety $20 D or C-cell Maglite. What this accomplishes is to allow one to use high-performance superbulbs from Welch Allyn directly in the Mag. There's no longer any need to send bi-pin bulbs to Carley for potting in a PR base before they can be used. Now, the entire constellation of bi-pin superbulbs has been rendered drop-in compatible.
Ok, so let's get started.
1. The principal components of a SuperMag mod
a. The bulb: If using a standard Mag which needs PR base bulbs, your options are a bit limited. The easiest option is to push or overdrive. This means using a 3-cell bulb in a 4-cell light, a 5-cell bulb in a 6-cell light and so on. This route is easy, the bulbs are widely available and the consequences of failure are not dire as common bulbs are typically priced at less than $3 a piece. Alternatively, you can select a bare pin (bi-pin) bulb from either Carley or Welch Allyn and have Carley pot it in a PR base for you. This process will take time. Lots of time. Sometimes months. A halfway option is to use a Carley CL912 bi-pin to PR base adapter. This part allows you to stick a bi-pin bulb into into a PR base fitted with two pin sockets. This will work fine as long as bulbs are relatively low power. Below 1.25A and 15W is generally considered safe.
If you have a bi-pin capable torch such as the MagCharger or a MagBP (Mag C/D with the bi-pin drop-in mod) then life is good. You simply buy the Welch Allyn bulb you want (either as part of a group buy or on your own) and stick it in your light.
b. The reflector: If you are using a genuine superbulb, any part that sits near it and is not thermally stable up to 350F+ will be subject to melting. This means the reflector. While the stock unit in the Mag is composed of tough polycarbonate, it will not withstand prolonged exposure to superbulbs. Experience has shown that bulbs above approximately 12 watts of power will deform the reflector given enough time. For example, a 6V 2A bulb. I have found that bulbs around 20 watts will deform the reflector in about 6 minutes. So, what's a flashaholic to do?
For a robust SuperMag setup, an aftermarket aluminum reflector is an absolute must. Carley makes a unit that is almost a direct drop-in to the Mag head. I posted a thread on how to perform this medium difficulty mod. Your best option, however, is to purchase a ready-made drop-in unit. Presently, only modder Fivemega makes drop-in, cammed units that function just like the stocker but will withstand any bulb you're likely to plug in. At one time, modder Otokoyama also made a drop-in unit called the Perfect Mag Reflector (PMR).
One special feature of these aftermarket reflectors is that they can be ordered with "orange peel" texturizing. This means to reflector surface is coated with lumpy but reflective coating that "fuzzes out" the light beam. This is a desirable thing when using superbulbs with their large filaments because it softens the filament artifacts and smooths out the beam while only minimally detracting from throw. This treatment is commonly referred to as "MOP" Medium Orange Peel, "LOP" or "HOP."
c. The lens: The stock Mag C/D lens is made of the same stuff, polycarbonate, as the reflector. So, when using superbulbs, it will suffer from thermal damage just like the reflector. This item must be replaced if you are using superbulbs. CPF-supporting vendor Flashlightlens.com makes replacement lenses for Mags as well as other lights. His UltraClearLens (UCL) is perfect for casual use. These lenses are antireflective coated and superhigh transmission to allow the maximum amount of photons through. If you want a lens that is so clear that it basically looks invisible to the eye, the UCL is your bag. Highly recommended. If, however, you use your lights long and hard, then the Borofloat lens will be your choice. Much more thermal and impact resistant than the UCL at the expense of some transmission, these are perfect for hard use. In a pinch, even the MagCharger mineral glass lens can be used although because of its added thickness, a small gap between the face-cap and Mag head may remain. A 20W bulb will begin melting the stock lens in 4 minutes so don't mess around, upgrade.
Stay tuned for Chapter 2 where we will talk about batteries, the power system, body mods, fine tuning and actual recipes for specific setups.
Wilkey
Questions and Answersb]
[ QUOTE ]
Sinjz asked:I have a quick question. What is the purpose of a cammed reflector when you're using a MOP or HOP. Doesn't the texturizing sort of defeat the whole focus- defocus thing?
[/ QUOTE ]
Answer
Focusing via cam (Maglite) or screw-down (Lumapro) are gross, large scale actions that move the filament large distances relative to the location of the reflector's focal point. That is why you can go from tight spot to massive flood, complete with gaping center hole. Orange peel texturizing as seen in the Carley custom reflectors, Fivemega's drop-ins and Surefire reflectors is a treatment that adds a degree of dispersion to the beam. The effect is much less dramatic than defocusing and it only affects the reflected beam. That is why the effect is exclusively on the focused spot. So, basically to make massive changes to the beam profile, you focus or defocus. To make the thrown spot smoother and more even, texturizing is the key.
Note that there are other types of beam dispersion treatment. Streamlight uses satin polished reflectors in their lamp assemblies (LAs) coupled with slight defocus to achieve a very visually pleasing beam that is effective for close-quarters target acquisition. Many manufacturers also use faceting to achieve a similar effect. In a subsequent chapter, I'll cover other whole beam treatments such as holographic diffusion, the classic "Write Right" mod and bulb etching.
[ QUOTE ]
DarkLight asked:Part or link to this bi pin receiver or is this just a mag charger replacement part?
[/ QUOTE ]
Answer
The bi-pin slug and the surrounding metal collar are part of the MagCharger switch section. This is available as a replacement part. This part, ML108-106, can be purchased from vendors such as www.cases4less.com
[ QUOTE ]
paulr asked:What tools do you need for the BP modification? That means getting the switch out and changing the slug, I guess.
[/ QUOTE ]
Answer
To do the BP mod, the only tool you'll need is a 5/64" hex wrench/Allen key. This is used to remove the cam following bolts in the metal sleeve surrounding the bi-pin slug in the MagCharger switch section and the PR receiver in the Mag C/D assembly. Once the cam following bolts are removed, the key parts simply drop out and can be easily switched. The 5/64" key is also used to remove the entire switch assembly from the Mag C/D. The only exception is for older Mags which require a special two-pin spanner wrench to remove a lock-down collar before the switch section can be pushed out.
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