Sold/Expired FS: Complete FBOP Tiger85 - $210

This is a complete FBOP Tiger85 (non pepper spray): light, charging system, UCL, battery pack, smooth reflector with WA1185 lamp, and two spare WA1185 lamps. Note that this does NOT come with the stock battery pack, LA or lens. All these have been replaced with a 9 cell 10.8 volt KAN 1050 pack, Carley 1940-smooth & Welch Allyn 1185, and a flashlightlens.com UCL. (One of the older style TL UCL's without the Shock Isolation gasket.) The stock wallwart has been replaced with a higher voltage model, and the charging harness has been modified to supply a lower charge current, suitable for the 1050 mAh battery pack. This system is specifically for the Tiger85, although it will charge a stock TL in 18-24 hours. The harness is marked to indicate the modification.

For information on the Tiger85 please see the following links:

TigerLight Upgrade Offerings (summary)

TigerLight Upgrades Reviews

The TigerLight Upgrade Thread

Be forewarned that the last link given is to the original thread which is long and winding and only for those who are interested in how these mods came into being.

Also please note that I make absolutely no guarantee on the lamp lifetimes, even if one or more of them blows when first turned on. The Tiger85 is a very high strung light, and has a significant chance of blowing the lamp if turned on hot off the charger. A wait of 15-30 minutes reduces this chance sharply but does not eliminate it. This is the reason why two spare lamps are included.

Cost is $210 shipped CONUS via USPS priority mail with delivery confirmation and insurance. I am happy to ship internationally (or to non-CONUS) if the buyer pays me the difference in shipping costs. PM me for details on international sales. I am also happy to ship a faster method as long as the buyer pays the difference.

I will accept checks or money orders (in $US), or PayPal. However, please add $7 for PP payments to cover the fee. This is for BOTH credit card AND bank funded PayPal payments.

My PP and email address is: [email protected]. PM or email me for my address if you want to pay by check or money order. Also, feel free to PM or email with questions.

First person to post "I'll take it" or similar gets it.

FYI, there will be one last complete kit going up for sale, and I will be starting the second build run signup thread in a month, give or take a week or two. So if you already have a TL or if you don't have the funds at the moment, or want an OP version, don't worry, there will be other opportunities to buy my TL mods.

Thanks for looking,

I'll take it. Thanks Jim!

Here I go again...

I will take it...

Will

Well, what are the odds that dh515 and myself would post at the same time. dh515, congratulations! You will love this light.

Jim, does this mean that I get the next one since we posted at the same time?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Will

Dave,

You're welcome! I will get it out in the mail on or before Friday at noon.

Will,

Sorry, I can't sell it to you preemtively, but it seems as if you and Dave are the only people buying these, so when I post it, I'm sure you can buy it if you want it.

-Jim

Oh, they weren't the only two looking at it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleye11.gif

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xpitxbullx said:
Oh, they weren't the only two looking at it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleye11.gif

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I second that ^
Mike..

Third.

OK. So I'm not so sure Will can buy the last TL TK. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

FYI, it will be posted within a week of today, and it will not be posted at the same time of day.

This is an awesome mod. You want "bright" in a handheld light? This is it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

JS's mods are first-rate. S4MadMan Approved! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[ QUOTE ]
S4MadMan said:
This is an awesome mod. You want "bright" in a handheld light? This is it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

JS's mods are first-rate. S4MadMan Approved! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

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What he said. And I'm lurking for another Tiger11

Jim, what's the lamp change procedure in this light? This use your special potted 1185's, right?

S4MadMan,

Thanks for the thumbs up! I'm painfully aware, however, that the Tiger85 runtime is too short, and I am unhappy with how touchy it is hot off the charger. It is what it is, and it is very, very bright for a light of it's size, but I wish I could do something about these two flaws.

The Tiger11, on the other hand, is very close to what I wanted from a TL mod. The WA1111 and the 6 4/5A high-rate NiMH's are very well matched. I'd like to get some reports from Tiger11 owners as to lamp life and how resistant it is to instaflashing. I know it's on the edge, because Wilkey told me you were blowing 1111's on 6 SC's. Is that rigt, Dan? Anyway, thanks again.

paulr,

Yes, the TL mods use my ring-potted lamps. I did this so that I could break the potting alignment process down into two parts: centering and focus. If I had a some fancy jigs I could power up the lamp in a spun reflector, move it around for the best beam, let it cool, and then pot it directly into the reflector. This is what TL and SL do. But I'm just an amateur, so I was forced to do it this way, and it does have it's advantages.

To change out the lamp, you basically just loosen the set-screw, remove the old one, insert a new clean lamp, tighten the set-screw, attach the leads but with the TL open and with the SI gasket. Then loosen the set-screw, turn on the light, and move the lamp in and out of the bore until you are happy with the beam. Then tighten down the set-screw and you are done. In case you want to know even more details, here is an excerpt from the TL care and use instructions:

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LAMPS AND REFLECTORS

Do not touch the glass of the halogen lamps! If you do, clean with isopropyl alcohol and let dry before use.

Halogen lamps can explode. It is rare, but it does happen. Do not run your light without a lens installed. Do not point the reflector and lamp at yourself or anyone else while installing and focusing a new ring-potted lamp in a reflector. Make sure that in the rare event that a lamp does explode it only depresses you and does not injure you or anyone else.

Turning on the light just after taking it off the charger increases the risk of insta-flashing the lamp filament. The WA1185 is the most susceptible to this and it is highly recommended that you allow at least 15 minutes for the battery pack to cool down. So far the WA1111's have proven tolerant of the higher voltage and current from a hot, fresh-off-the-charger pack, but there is still a risk. The WA1274, on the other hand, is being driven to spec with the 6 cell pack, and should not mind being subjected to the peak hot-off-the-charger voltage.

Do not over-tighten the set-screw which secures the lamp in the reflector. Finger tight is tight enough. As long as it is snug and does not move when the lamp leads are connected and disconnected, it is tight enough. By "finger tight" I mean the following: turn the set-screw down until it makes contact, then tighten 1/16th of a turn more, i.e. 20-25 degrees. However, if the lamp is moving in the bore of the reflector, do not be afraid to tighten down the set-screw some more.

Do not touch the inner surface of the reflector. If you do, do not try to wipe it clean! I have learned the hard way that no matter how soft your cloth or lens papers are they will leave micro-scratches in the vacuum metallization. If you do get a finger print on the reflector, remove the lamp and set-screw and spray with Simple Green cleaner. Wait a few minutes, rinse off the cleaner, and then rinse off the tap water with distilled water (or rinse only with distilled water). Otherwise, when the water droplets dry, they will leave mineral deposits. Another option to avoid water stains is to pat the water droplets off with one of those special super-soft cloths for cleaning modern glasses (the ones that aren't glass). Just make sure not to wipe the cloth across the surface—pat it. Next, let the water dry out from inside the set-screw hole and reflector bore, and reinstall set-screw and lamp. Use compressed air for regular cleaning.

To install and focus a ring-potted lamp into a reflector first make sure the lamp is clean and free of finger prints, and that the set-screw is backed off enough. Actually, it's always a good idea to clean the lamp with isopropyl alcohol and a cloth before installing it. Let it dry (if it was cleaned), then slide the lamp up inside the bore with the bi-pin end flush with the back of the reflector and snug down the set-screw. At this point, look into the front of the reflector to see if the filament is well centered. If it isn't try rotating the lamp 180 degrees and re-tighten the set screw and check again. Also, if needed, try rotations of 90 degrees in either direction. If the bore of the reflector were perfectly co-axial and centered, rotations of the lamp would make no difference. However, I have found empirically that they do. So once you have the lamp oriented for best filament centering (with set screw tightened down), attach the lamp-lead wires but do not install the rubber hose or bezel/lens. Go to a good place where you can see the beam—a white wall works nicely. Have your allen wrench handy and locate the on/off button so that you can turn off the light easily once you have found the best beam. Loosen the set-screw, turn on the light, and carefully slide the lamp in and out until you find the optimal position and focus. If you want the most throw, then try to get the most intense center in the hotspot. If you want the most pleasing, artifact-free beam, try to get the most compact, best looking hotspot. I usually make a compromise between these two positions. Tighten the set-screw and turn off the light. If you find that the lamp becomes difficult to slide in and out, turn off the light and let the lamp and reflector cool off, then try again. The lamp and reflector will get hot quickly, so try to be efficient and prompt, but also stay relaxed. You'll get it just where you want it in a few tries.

Do not try to run one of the 7.2 volt lamps with the 9 cell KAN 1050 battery pack. It will blow these lamps. Run only the WA1185 ring-potted lamp with the 9 cell pack. These lamps have a red dot on the potting compound near the lamp pins. The WA1111 lamps have a blue dot, and the WA1274 lamps have a green dot.

All of these lamps will melt the stock lexan lens and require a glass lens, such as the Shock Isolated UCL sold by www.flashlightlens.com. I find the best way to use the SI UCL is to remove the o-ring from the TigerLight bezel and allow the SI gasket to form the seal against the bezel instead. This also allows the bezel to turn down all the way. With the older style UCL's which do not have a gasket, leave the bezel o-ring in place and simply replace the stock lexan lens with the UCL.

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js said:
S4MadMan,

Thanks for the thumbs up! I'm painfully aware, however, that the Tiger85 runtime is too short, and I am unhappy with how touchy it is hot off the charger. It is what it is, and it is very, very bright for a light of it's size, but I wish I could do something about these two flaws.

The Tiger11, on the other hand, is very close to what I wanted from a TL mod. The WA1111 and the 6 4/5A high-rate NiMH's are very well matched. I'd like to get some reports from Tiger11 owners as to lamp life and how resistant it is to instaflashing. I know it's on the edge, because Wilkey told me you were blowing 1111's on 6 SC's. Is that rigt, Dan? Anyway, thanks again.


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JS: Yes, I blew four different, new WA0111s in a Ginseng modded a 6-1/2D MAG Charger. Got the extender tube from FiveMega (great work). Ran the UMP 3,500mAHs and blew four WA01111s that cost me $65. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif $65?! Don't ask...four bulbs from four different individuals, 3 bulbs were overnight shipping.

The conditions how these four bulbs blew (I won't call them instaflashing):

1) 15 minutes off the charger: sucks but I can live with it.

2) 45 minutes off the charger: ummmm, not acceptable (for me).

3) 3+ hours off the charger! This one really hurt because I was the the Super Light Shoot Out Part 2 Redo with Mr. Ted Bear, Kenshiro and In The Dark and we were comparing the the MC60 to Mr. Ted Bear's 10X Dominator. The MC60 held its own, throwing further because of a more focused reflector but I believe the 10X put out a bit more overall light. It was close but I give the edge to the 10X. That said, I happily pulled out the MC11 knowing it would one-up the 10X, turned it on and *poof* the bulb blew. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

4) 2 hours off the charger: thinking bulb # 3 was a freak of nature and bad luck, I tried 2 hours off the charger and *poof* bye-bye birdie again.

So now, my MC11 is at Ginseng's undergoing bionic surgery so that it may rise from the dead and light up the night sky once more. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif