Building a Mag85BP Classic and the Mag BP Mod

Ginseng

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 27, 2003
Messages
3,734
This post was returned to the thread on 2/8/06.

Alrighty you guys. Here are the directions for making the Mag85. Let this be the official "Mag85" modding thread. Please feel free to post your own experiences with this mod. The MagCharger Bi-pin Slug Mod (BP) is described in detail below the main mod.

Parts:

0. Flashlight: Duh, it's a Mag mod so go get yourself a Mag 3D in any color you like.

1. Bulb: Welch Allyn WA01185, 9.6V, 3.15A spec. If you are using the MagCharger bi-pin slug drop-in mod, you can use the bare, unpotted bi-pin bulb as-is. This bulb is commonly available a) from CPF supporting vendor LightEdge, b) direct from Welch Allyn after a $100 minimum purchase requirement is met or c) through a Group Buy such as recently organized by S4MadMan.

2. Reflector: There are multiple ways to skin the cat but the easiest is to wait until mid-late February for CPF super-modder Fivemega to post that his latest batch of cammed, aluminum Mag replacement reflectors are for sale. I think this will be in the B/S/T forum so keep your eyes peeled.

3. Lens: Go to CPF supporting vendor Flashlightlens.com and order up some of his UCL (Ultra Clear Lens) or the tougher but marginally lower transmission Borofloat upgrade lenses.

4. Battery Carrier: The Mag85 mod, in its classic form, uses 9 x AA nimh. To handle these in your Mag body, you'll need a battery carrier that arranges these cells neatly in a circuit. Your best bets are a) Elektrolumens' 3-D battery adapters. We are waiting to hear about the next production run but when they become available, get yourself three of 'em. b) Fivemega's ultra gnarly 9AA-3D adapter. As with the Fivemega reflectors, keep your eyes peeled on the B/S/T forum.

5. Batteries: Through extensive testing and use, I've found that anything from 1800mAh to 2300mAh cells will work. However, if you want the optimal balance of runtime and brightness, 2100mAh cells are your best bet. My personal favorites are the Sanyo/Energizer 2100mAh cells.

6. Bulb Socket: If you plan to use the bare bi-pin bulb (this is the most flexible option) then you'll need to score yourself a replacement bi-pin slug receiver from a MagCharger switch assembly. I buy mine from Cases4Less and their part number is ML-108-106 which costs $10.50.

That's all. Directions are as follows.

1. Unscrew the front face cap and replace the stock plastic lens with the Flashlightlens upgrade glass. Screw the face cap back on. make sure the O-rings are seated properly and do not screw down too hard or you risk cracking your lens. Note: The face cap is the ring at the very front of the light that has writing on it.

2. Then, replace the stock plastic reflector with the Fivemega aluminum upgrade unit. Screw back on the face cap and then unscrew the entire head.

3. While the head is off, plug in the bulb. If using the BP mod, stick the bulb pins into the two holes as far down as they will go. It might be useful to carefully clip off 2mm from the end of the pins to help focus. If using a potted bulb, simply replace the bulb as you normally would. Note: When reinstalling the head, I find that 2-3 wraps of teflon pipe thread tape around the threads eliminates head wobble and helps maintain good bulb/reflector centering.

4. Stuff the batteries in the battery holder of your choice. Double and triple check for correct battery orientation. Remove the tailcap and load the battery carrier(s) into the torch. Before you do this, though, make sure the switch is in the "off" position.

5. Push the switch and bask in the 1,200 lumen (800 lumens out the front) glow of a genuine superlight that you've just assembled yourself!

The MagBP mod
These are the directions for extracting the bi-pin slug from a MagCharger switch assembly and installing it in a regular Mag.

1. Push down slightly on the spring loaded bi-pin bulb socket on the MC switch assembly. Then, using a 5/64" (2mm) hex wrench, remove the two brass-colored cam bolts from the sides of the "snout" at the front of the MC switch assembly.

2. Slide the slug out the front of the switch assembly. The plastic slug is snugged inside a heavy metal sleeve. These are the two parts you'll use in this mod. You will not need the spring, little cup or anything else from the MC replacement switch.

3. Take your Mag and remove the rubber switch boot by prying it up with a fingernail. Remove the tailcap now as well. Push the switch to the depressed "on" position.

4. Insert the hex wrench into the small hole in the center of the button plunger. Seat the wrench and start unscrewing. When you can move the switch backwards in the body tube, try pushing the switch out the back of the light. If it doesn't come out, unscrew by half-turns until it slides right out.

5. Insert the hex wrench into the brass-colored cam bolt on the front of the Mag switch and remove.

6. Slide out the bulb holder and heavy metal sleeve. Set this aside so you can replace it if needed. Make sure the spring and small, flat metal cup are still seated inside the switch. Take the small metal cup from the rear of socket/sleeve and insert it into the back of the MC slug/sleeve.

7. Insert the MC slug/sleeve into the Mag switch assembly making sure the spring goes up into the back of the metal cup. IMPORTANT: Make sure the thin metal strip inside the plastic pedestal is sliding on the outside of the slug/sleeve.

8. Press the slug down and align the hole for the cam bolt with the slot in the plastic stem of the Mag switch. Screw in the cam bolt you removed in step 5.

9. Slide the entire switch back into the Mag, align and center the switch plunger in the hole in the body. Using the hex wrench, tighten the pointy set screw locking the switch assembly in place.

10. Stuff the rubber switch boot back in place and you're all done.

Note: These directions do not cover the older Mag models which require a special spanner wrench to remove the switch assembly. This step would occur before step 4 above.

Wilkey
 
Last edited:

bwaites

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 27, 2003
Messages
5,035
Location
Central Washington State
I would add one stopgap measure you can try if you like and that is to do a disassembly of the MagCharger reflector and mount it into a standard reflector as described here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=644161&Forum=f14&Words

It works, I've run it for prolonged periods, you keep the focus, but lose the beam smoothing of the orangepeeled reflectors. You may destroy the stock plastic reflector, but they're cheap! (My reflector, after running for hours, seemed to work just fine when I took out the metal reflector.)

Bill
 

udaman

Banned
Joined
Feb 13, 2004
Messages
381
[ QUOTE ]
Ginseng said:
Alrighty you guys. Here are the directions for making the Mag85. Let this be the official "Mag85" modding thread. Please feel free to post your own experiences with this mod. The MagCharger Bi-pin Slug Mod (BP) is described in detail below the main mod.

<font color="blue">Parts:</font>

0. Flashlight: Duh, it's a Mag mod so go get yourself a Mag 3D in any color you like. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

1. Bulb: Welch Allyn WA01185, 9.6V, 3.15A spec. If you are using the MagCharger bi-pin slug drop-in mod, you can use the bare, unpotted bi-pin bulb as-is. This bulb is commonly available a) from CPF supporting vendor LightEdge, b) direct from Welch Allyn after a $100 minimum purchase requirement is met or c) through a Group Buy such as recently organized by S4MadMan.

2. Reflector: There are multiple ways to skin the cat but the easiest is to wait until mid-late February for CPF super-modder Fivemega to post that his latest batch of cammed, aluminum Mag replacement reflectors are for sale. I think this will be in the B/S/T forum so keep your eyes peeled.

3. Lens: Go to CPF supporting vendor Flashlightlens.com and order up some of his UCL (Ultra Clear Lens) or the tougher but marginally lower transmission Borofloat upgrade lenses.

4. Battery Carrier: The Mag85 mod, in its classic form, uses 9 x AA nimh. To handle these in your Mag body, you'll need a battery carrier that arranges these cells neatly in a circuit. Your best bets are a) Elektrolumens' 3-D battery adapters. We are waiting to hear about the next production run but when they become available, get yourself three of 'em. b) Fivemega's ultra gnarly 9AA-3D adapter. As with the Fivemega reflectors, keep your eyes peeled on the B/S/T forum.

5. Batteries: Through extensive testing and use, I've found that anything from 1800mAh to 2300mAh cells will work. However, if you want the optimal balance of runtime and brightness, 2100mAh cells are your best bet. My personal favorites are the Sanyo/Energizer 2100mAh cells.

6. Bulb Socket: If you plan to use the bare bi-pin bulb (this is the most flexible option) then you'll need to score yourself a replacement bi-pin slug receiver from a MagCharger switch assembly. I buy mine from Cases4Less and their part number is ML-108-106 which costs $10.50.

That's all. Directions are as follows.

1. Unscrew the front face cap and replace the stock plastic lens with the Flashlightlens upgrade glass. Screw the face cap back on. make sure the O-rings are seated properly and do not screw down too hard or you risk cracking your lens. Note: The face cap is the ring at the very front of the light that has writing on it.

2. Then, replace the stock plastic reflector with the Fivemega aluminum upgrade unit. Screw back on the face cap and then unscrew the entire head.

3. While the head is off, plug in the bulb. If using the BP mod, stick the bulb pins into the two holes as far down as they will go. It might be useful to carefully clip off 2mm from the end of the pins to help focus. If using a potted bulb, simply replace the bulb as you normally would. Note: When reinstalling the head, I find that 2-3 wraps of teflon pipe thread tape around the threads elminates head wobble and helps maintain good bulb/reflector centering.

4. Stuff the batteries in the battery holder of your choice. Double and triple check for correct battery orientation. Remove the tailcap and load the battery carrier(s) into the torch. Before you do this, though, make sure the switch is in the "off" position.

5. Push the switch and bask in the 1,200 lumen (800 lumens out the front) glow of a genuine superlight that you've just assembled yourself!

<font color="red">The MagBP mod</font>
These are the directions for extracting the bi-pin slug from a MagCharger switch assembly and installing it in a regular Mag.

1. Push down slightly on the spring loaded bi-pin bulb socket on the MC switch assembly. Then, using a 5/64" (2mm) hex wrench, remove the two brass-colored cam bolts from the sides of the "snout" at the front of the MC switch assembly.

2. Slide the slug out the front of the switch assembly. The plastic slug is snugged inside a heavy metal sleeve. These are the two parts you'll use in this mod. You will not need the spring, little cup or anything else from the MC replacement switch.

3. Take your Mag and remove the rubber switch boot by prying it up with a fingernail. Remove the tailcap now as well. Push the switch to the depressed "on" position.

4. Insert the hex wrench into the small hole in the center of the button plunger. Seat the wrench and start unscrewing. When you can move the switch backwards in the body tube, try pushing the switch out the back of the light. If it doesn't come out, unscrew by half-turns until it slides right out.

5. Insert the hex wrench into the brass-colored cam bolt on the front of the Mag switch and remove.

6. Slide out the bulb holder and heavy metal sleeve. Set this aside so you can replace it if needed. Make sure the spring and small, flat metal cup are still seated inside the switch. Take the small metal cup from the rear of socket/sleeve and insert it into the back of the MC slug/sleeve.

7. Insert the MC slug/sleeve into the Mag switch assembly making sure the spring goes up into the back of the metal cup. IMPORTANT: Make sure the thin metal strip inside the plastic pedestal is sliding on the outside of the slug/sleeve.

8. Press the slug down and align the hole for the cam bolt with the slot in the plastic stem of the Mag switch. Screw in the cam bolt you removed in step 5.

9. Slide the entire switch back into the Mag, align and center the switch plunger in the hole in the body. Using the hex wrench, tighten the pointy set screw locking the switch assembly in place.

10. Stuff the rubber switch boot back in place and you're all done.

Note: These directions do not cover the older Mag models which require a special spanner wrench to remove the switch assembly. This step would occur before step 4 above.

Wilkey

[/ QUOTE ]

Hmm, looks like another speedy/rushed post...work in progress thread? If Official then maybe the initial thread can be re-edited to add pertinent and accurate details. Where do I start?

Maybe the title of this thread needs re-wording, or just the wording of this being an 'official' M*g85 thread? Umm, it's the useage of generic name of M*g85 that is the problem here. It is possible to use the WA1185 in a variety of M*glite with a variety of battery configurations and battery chemistries. So where is the notation about using the PR potted WA1185, or is there yet another 'official' thread for that...see what I mean about confusing wording?

"Here are the directions for making the Mag85"

Differentiation between a bi-pin "Classic" mod and a regular bi-pin socket mod? Classic meaning what? That you just order the M*gChr switch assembly and remove the nickle plated brass holder, along with center plastic bi-pin socket, and then do the parts swap with similar item from your standard M*g? So we can do this same type of parts swap for a M*gC body also and run the WA1185 in a M*g C, also with PR potted WA1185, if we have the right combination of batteries for the power source. Non-Classic, from what I can gather here, is instructions on removing the M*gChr switch assembly from your M*gChr on a temporary basis? To be put into a standard M*g? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif Ginseng must type up his posts as fast as I do mine, for some reason they seem completely clear to us when writing them, but are rather confusing upon reading later by one and all? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Reflectors:

If you are like js and some others who discount the M*g patented cammed operation quick focusing, then you can use a mod'd Carley 1940, as one like litho123 obtained in his recent GB thread for WA/Carley potted bulbs.

Fivemega will most likely not post to B/S/T forum (but I couldn't say for sure), as the previous FM-2 reflectors were in the usual suspects forum B/S/T Group Buy & Passarounds forum. Here I am making the distinction that the abreviated Ginseng notation can be confused by beginners. We are talking about this forum with the clickable link entitled Group Buys and Passarounds , rather than the B/S/T ~ Lights

While he may offer them again at a later date, FM's MOP and LOP (medium or light orange peel) reflectors are not currently in production or for sale. The SOP (smooth or mirror finish reflectors, that do not tame the the noticably large filament artifacts in the beam produced by the WA1185) is what FM has on his current schedule. These will probably be available for a substantially longer period than Ginseng's recent lighting quick M*gChr switch assembly 2-day firesale GB, or last December's 5day GB for 1/2D AeroNiMH batteries; but they may go faster than the initial FM-2 MOP & LOP offerings.

Mineral glass M*gChr lens or Borofloat would be what I recommend, the UCL is less robust, and the additional minor percentage increase of transmitted light will be unnoticed. But you won't have the "Wow" dats invisible 'look' of the UCL lens /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif (which is OK it's alright not to have an UCL, put the UCL lens at an angle to a light reflecting on it, and you can see the imperfections of the AR coating, best to not look too closely at your 'wow' lenses then /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif ).

Batteries, extensive testing with what batteries? Different brands have different capabilities, and older or well used AA NiMH can prove to be frustratingly incapable of supplying adquate power. Does Ginseng have any of the generic made- in-China AA's? Some of these just don't cut it for higher-current uses like this WA1185... unless you don't mind rapidly dimming, and/or less than ideal white light output (yellowish light is OK for some then?). Overly generalized statement, IMHO; that any and all 1800-2100ma batteries will work to the satisfaction of the masses.

Then again, an older M*glite with lots of resistance from oxidation of ALL of the contacts in the electrical circuit pathway, will kill the output of this 'superbulb' like you would not believe(same could be said of any bulb, however).

S4MadMan's GB for WA bulbs is closed, as is the prior litho123 GB which included WA1185's---although litho123 had some extra stock of these PR potted 1185's for sale just a few weeks ago. Lightedge is your best source currently.

No pictures at all, how can we have an 'official' thread lacking any pictures to illustrate the points...Arggh, linking to another thread with few illustrations/pics is not what I'd call adequate, the picts should be HERE, if this is indeed and 'official' thread. Oh well, I think I could help out with pictures and recommendations for what can also be done(you can link to my instructions and illustrations that make it far more clear what to do, when I finish the contact cleaning thread---assuming I ever get around to it after trying to keep up with all these other threads/loose ends---pulls hair out), or not done well in this disassembly/reassembly process; as I've done it a gazillion times already for both the M*gC & D bodies.

Eee gads, another work-in-progress thread? Heck I haven't even gotten around to sprucing up the loose ends of the Ginseng Cookbook threads /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Now how do you suppose I'll ever finish the pictorial contact cleaning thread /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif, if I'm busy trying to fill in all the holes/weaknesses of all these other incandescent mod'ing threads. Geez, I thought figuring out ways to improve the various weak links in the M*glite switch assemblies was going to be a challenge (the bi-pin socket being one of them, despite js's absurd contention that the under-engineered bi-pin socket- "parts swap", renders all other performance upgrade mod's "superfluous"...hehe, talk about hyperbole!); but that may just turn out to be the easier challenge /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crackup.gif

I can just see it now, end of the year js gives 100% credit for the monumentally important? M*gChr bi-pin socket switch assembly parts swap, in another Cheers thread to his idol Ginseng. Now wasn't it last year or two ago, that Ginseng was quoted as wishing he knew of a source for the M*gChr switch assembly. Kudos to the Ican Master Ginseng for all his pioneering research on this source for that elusive M*gChr switch assembly and other items, for which this simplistic 'parts swap' would not happened, nor the 2-day fire-sale GB on these bi-pin sockets that make the mod useable in the standard M*glites. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif to the emperor /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 

Ginseng

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Joined
Feb 27, 2003
Messages
3,734
Good point Bill. In general, even with the superbulbs, you're not SOL if you don't have an aluminum reflector. It takes maybe 4 minutes of continuous running to start to deform the reflector so if you only use it in "point and squirt" mode, you might never need an aluminum reflector. However, the aftermarket reflectors are usually texturized and this helps improve the beam quality dramatically.

Wilkey
 

PlayboyJoeShmoe

Flashaholic
Joined
Sep 4, 2002
Messages
11,041
Location
Shepherd, TX (where dat?)
I found that this thread does a pretty good job.

The reflector thing is a double edge sword. I WANT MOP, but will probably never NEED aluminum, as I am a demonstration burst type of user.

Also, getting a MC reflector to donate it's metal skin isn't any CHEAPER than FM stuff... it IS more available!

Hee Hee... I just PPd 3xWA01174... 7AA + Dumbdumb in a 2D M*g... Hee hee!!!
 
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