Mc2Es with L4 resistance values

I am looking at the 2-stage switch for my L4 but I am undecided as to which resistance to use, 20ohm, 15ohm...
If you use one of these works of art please share the resistor you use as well as the application(s) you chose it for, Edc, back-up, dresser drawer..
Also the style of cap you chose, and why. Trim, standard, flat...
I would use it to look under kitchen sinks, some close up table work and manuvering in my home for routine "check the child" missions.
I like the features of the standard cap, tri-pod mountable, rugged and it looks cool, only problem is the holster I am having build will not accomidate it properly..
Can I get some feedback?

I have a 30 ohm trim switch on my L4. Got the trim flavor so the light would fit in a Streamlight Jr. Lux holster. The output from the 30 ohm is more or less like an Inova X5. Its plenty of light for most routine tasks, IMO. Lately I've using a Surefire z57 clicky tailcap on the L4 as the z57 is easier (for me) to operate. The flat flavor is nice too, but its not for me because I sometimes carry in a pocket and its switch is very sensitive and not protected from accidental actuation. It does make for the shortest light, tho, if you are into that. I have a standard flavor 60 ohm tail switch on an Aleph 3 2x123 917. Its easier for cigar-style use where you actuate it with your thumb, but doesn't holster as easily.

best regards

Hello Pydpiper,

I run my L4 on a Pila 168s. I decided I wanted more light on low and was less worried about run time. I went with a 10 ohm resistor in a standard tail cap.

I use the light at work. It does well in dark to low ambient light. When the ambient light level goes up, I switch to an Aleph 3 with a 40 ohm resistor.

Tom

Thanks guys, this is some great info..

Hi Pdypiper,

Firstly, I must admit to being one of the least technical people around, both on the CPF as well as in life.

Now that I have that out of the way, I will comment on my beloved Surefire L4.

I own an L4. And it is by far my favorite light. I have absolutely no complaints on it whatsoever.

I then decided to get the McE2S tailcap, which McGizmo's quality of construction and customer service both rate as 5 stars in my book.

I ended up getting the Trim Tailcap, with 22 ohm. It looks perfect with the new rounded body shape of the L4, and for my usage the light output is ideal on low, with the option of using it on high as needed. Plus, the option is there, with the shape of the tailcap, that I can leave it standing upright, on candle mode. And being I use this as my EDC, this is exactly the type of like I wanted.

The light output, roughly speaking, is that of an unmodified Maglite AA, albeit with a much nicer beam, and superior run time. As an FYI, I both run the light on standard 123A lithium batteries, as well as a Pila 168S.

Not too mention that it fits into my A2 Pouch from SOEGear.com quite comfortably. And being I prefer to carry my lights in a pouch, this was no small benefit.

So, in my view, the Trim Tailcap, with 22 ohm, is absolutely perfect. And while it come down to which resistor works best for your preference, I dare say that as I mentioned above, the service and quality are quite superb.

The above are my opinions, and ones I feel strongly about.

Hope that Helps,
John

I bought my Mc2ES as a kit form and installed it in the Z52 to keep it original looking.
I picked a 30 ohms thinking about long run time.....and to my taste its a little too dim. I use my light mostly indoors for closeup work and while doing invertory in the stockroom and freezer at work.

I am thinking about ordering a 22 ohm board...thats what most people seem to be happy with....the boards alone are pretty cheap and easy to change....I may just order a 10, 15 and 22 ohm that way I know i'll be happy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

McES2....... BEST thing I ever did for my L4!!!!

Aloha

[ QUOTE ]
Sixpointone said:
Hi Pdypiper,

Firstly, I must admit to being one of the least technical people around, both on the CPF as well as in life.

Now that I have that out of the way, I will comment on my beloved Surefire L4.

I own an L4. And it is by far my favorite light. I have absolutely no complaints on it whatsoever.

I then decided to get the McE2S tailcap, which McGizmo's quality of construction and customer service both rate as 5 stars in my book.

I ended up getting the Trim Tailcap, with 22 ohm. It looks perfect with the new rounded body shape of the L4, and for my usage the light output is ideal on low, with the option of using it on high as needed. Plus, the option is there, with the shape of the tailcap, that I can leave it standing upright, on candle mode. And being I use this as my EDC, this is exactly the type of like I wanted.

The light output, roughly speaking, is that of an unmodified Maglite AA, albeit with a much nicer beam, and superior run time. As an FYI, I both run the light on standard 123A lithium batteries, as well as a Pila 168S.

Not too mention that it fits into my A2 Pouch from SOEGear.com quite comfortably. And being I prefer to carry my lights in a pouch, this was no small benefit.

So, in my view, the Trim Tailcap, with 22 ohm, is absolutely perfect. And while it come down to which resistor works best for your preference, I dare say that as I mentioned above, the service and quality are quite superb.

The above are my opinions, and ones I feel strongly about.

Hope that Helps,
John

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Excellent recomendation John, thank you. I have to ask though, you mention the light out being the same (roughly) as a mag AA, you were refering to the 20Ohm resistor on low right?
Again, thanks for the in depth review and recomendation.

[ QUOTE ]
Braddah_Bill said:
I bought my Mc2ES as a kit form and installed it in the Z52 to keep it original looking.
I picked a 30 ohms thinking about long run time.....and to my taste its a little too dim. I use my light mostly indoors for closeup work and while doing invertory in the stockroom and freezer at work.

I am thinking about ordering a 22 ohm board...thats what most people seem to be happy with....the boards alone are pretty cheap and easy to change....I may just order a 10, 15 and 22 ohm that way I know i'll be happy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

McES2....... BEST thing I ever did for my L4!!!!

Aloha

[/ QUOTE ]

I like the idea of having multiple resistors around, that way I would be able to choose the right one through my own experience. When you price these out let me know which one you decide on.

Pydpiper,

You are very welcome!

To follow up, you asked...

"I have to ask though, you mention the light out being the same (roughly) as a mag AA, you were refering to the 20Ohm resistor on low right?"

The answer is that yes, that is what I meant. The L4, on low setting, with the 20 ohm resistored tailcap, based on the lights I own, is closest to an unmodified Maglite AA.

Mind you, the beams are not exact. On flood, the Mag has more flood. And when the beam is tightly focused on the Mag, it is in my view brighter by a bit. But, to me, the difference is not staggering. Not to mention, in my opinion, although softer, the Surefire beam is more focused and just as useful.

On high, their is no comparison on the L4 and an unmodified Minimag AA.

As stated before, these are my views on those lights. And should you have any other questions, feel free to ask away, and I'll asnswer as best as I am able.

By the way, one favor. When and if you do get a McE2S tailcap, please share your feedback of it with all of us at the CPF!

All My Best,
John

22 ohms for 2X123 and 10 or 15 ohms for the Pila works best with a Lux V running through a boost converter.

I just got a 22ohm Flat Top and am very pleased with both the actual ease of the switch itself and the amount of light output on low setting.

[ QUOTE ]
Pydpiper said:
[ QUOTE ]
Braddah_Bill said:
I bought my Mc2ES as a kit form and installed it in the Z52 to keep it original looking.
I picked a 30 ohms thinking about long run time.....and to my taste its a little too dim. I use my light mostly indoors for closeup work and while doing invertory in the stockroom and freezer at work.

I am thinking about ordering a 22 ohm board...thats what most people seem to be happy with....the boards alone are pretty cheap and easy to change....I may just order a 10, 15 and 22 ohm that way I know i'll be happy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

McES2....... BEST thing I ever did for my L4!!!!

Aloha

[/ QUOTE ]

I like the idea of having multiple resistors around, that way I would be able to choose the right one through my own experience. When you price these out let me know which one you decide on.

[/ QUOTE ]

If you haven't ordered your McE2s yet you can order extra boards at the same time....I think they were somewhere around $4.00 to $6.00 each. and like I said not that hard to change out if you learn how to do it.

Aloha,
Bill

This is probally the route I will take..

what is the lumen ratings for each ohm?? like 10ohm = ?lumens, 15ohm = ?lumens, etc...

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PhantomZ said:
what is the lumen ratings for each ohm?? like 10ohm = ?lumens, 15ohm = ?lumens, etc...

[/ QUOTE ]
Great question, that would involve some pretty heave research on someones part, but this is the place it would happen!

I use the 22 ohm in the "standard" McE2S tailcap and carry bezel down in a custom sheath. My L4 is about twice as bright as an Opalec in low beam.

If you want to test the effect of different resistor values go to Radio Shack or a similar store and get a pack of assorted resistors. You can remove the L4 tailcap and place the resistor leads on the battery tube and the negative battery contact. You can test lots of different values this way, but be carefull, those little resistors heat up fast

[ QUOTE ]
mahoney said:
I use the 22 ohm in the "standard" McE2S tailcap and carry bezel down in a custom sheath. My L4 is about twice as bright as an Opalec in low beam.

If you want to test the effect of different resistor values go to Radio Shack or a similar store and get a pack of assorted resistors. You can remove the L4 tailcap and place the resistor leads on the battery tube and the negative battery contact. You can test lots of different values this way, but be carefull, those little resistors heat up fast

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Great tip!

Is it possible to keep the switch clicky installing this switch module or has to be turned into LOTC?

Hi, Sungsu

No, yo can't keep clikie function with Mc2Es module.
You can keep just LOTC function.

I wish I would have seen this thread prior to ordering my Mc2ES. My FT Natural tailcap is already in the mail and I ordered a 60ohm resistor version. I currently use it in either a 2xCR123, 1 Pila 168S, or 1xR123. All running a very very bright KL4 head (possibly x-bin).

I was hoping this setup would give me about 25lms with one of these configs.

Did I screw up?