GarageBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Is it absolutely necessary to wirebrush the anondizing away? (If I ever need to remove the heat sink, can I?) Also, will transistor heat sink compound work? Thanks!
Mag Mod continued: O-sink+ Mag Barrel
- Thread starter GarageBoy
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3rd_shift
Flashlight Enthusiast
With an Osink, most of the annodizing can stay.
You can remove the heatsink later when it outlasts the original magg host.
Undue the switch with the allen head wrench, slide it down a bit, then use a small hammer with chopstick in the switch hole to tap out the heatsink from behind.
Desolder the leads, and your heatsink/emitter assembly is ready for a transplant to a shiny new mag later.
Transistor heatsink compound is what I use, go for it.
This will help the osink slide right into the barrel.
You can remove the heatsink later when it outlasts the original magg host.
Undue the switch with the allen head wrench, slide it down a bit, then use a small hammer with chopstick in the switch hole to tap out the heatsink from behind.
Desolder the leads, and your heatsink/emitter assembly is ready for a transplant to a shiny new mag later.
Transistor heatsink compound is what I use, go for it.
This will help the osink slide right into the barrel.
GarageBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks, I don't want to have to buy a wirewheel if I don't need to. Do you know what's the run time going to be with Alkalines? SX1L LuxIII
3rd_shift
Flashlight Enthusiast
8+ hours on alkalines to 50 percent brightness. (still plenty bright)
Nimh D cells of 11,000 milliamp hour capacity stays pretty close to full brightness for over 12 hours before even thinking of dimming.
Nimh D cells of 11,000 milliamp hour capacity stays pretty close to full brightness for over 12 hours before even thinking of dimming.
GarageBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks, WOW! How much brighter will it be compared to the original hotwire xenon?
