Please help me brainstorm.

Hello,

I'm wondering if the KL3 is worth getting. Can anyone think of a good reason to use the KL3 with the 6P instead of the KL1 with E2e?

I have a bunch of E2e's and 3 KL1s already. Besides the fact that the KL3 looks very cool.

I was going to order the new 9P with KL3 and Clickie tailcap or just the KL3 and use it with my 6P with a clickie tailcap.

Did they ever get the A19 back into production? TX

Originally posted by Surefire M6:
Hello,

I'm wondering if the KL3 is worth getting. Can anyone think of a good reason to use the KL3 with the 6P instead of the KL1 with E2e?

I have a bunch of E2e's and 3 KL1s already. Besides the fact that the KL3 looks very cool.

I was going to order the new 9P with KL3 and Clickie tailcap or just the KL3 and use it with my 6P with a clickie tailcap.

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">The KL3 produces a beam which is noticeably brighter and broader than the KL1.

The best aesthetic match for the KL3 is the G2 (not the G2Z) and the color match is almost perfect. The G2 is lighter than the 6P but is somewhat over balanced by the KL3. I find the most comfortable body for the KL3 is the G2Z. It is slightly longer (LOTC) and heavier than the G2 and its combat grip provides an optional hold as well as making a standard grip more secure. It is darker than the G2 so the color match won't be as good.

I'm sorry that SF doesn't make a nitrolon G3 or G3Z, but for 3x123 + KL3 I will probably use Doug speck's UBH plus McGizmo's adapter. The UBH should look beautiful with a HAIII LOTC and a KL1.
I ordered two so I might have one with an adapter + C2 bezel/pyrex/P61.

The possibilities are exciting.

Brightnorm

The initial graphs that were posted showed the KL3 putting out more light with 3-cells behind it than two, didn't they? Or am I confused?

Cheers,

Richard

Originally posted by rlhess:
The initial graphs that were posted showed the KL3 putting out more light with 3-cells behind it than two, didn't they? Or am I confused?

Cheers,

Richard

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Richard,

I'm sure you're right. The problem is that while I have several D3 bodies I have only one KL3,and by the time I make the switch from a D2 body to a D3 body my visual memory has partly lost the very exact brightness differentiation.

Perhaps I could use a E2 + KL1 as a reference and compare a 2x123+KL3 to it, write down details then do the same with a 3x123+KL3.

I'll probably end up waiting for the UBH so I can do it "right".

Brightnorm

FWIW, I was using a Z3 as my "big" light until I went to the M3. My Z3 was religated to the house and I waited and waited to get a KL3 for it. Well, it was a X-mas gift and well worth it to me. I like the Z3/KL3 combo as my "big" LED light now. The light is well balanced and easy to operate with the clickie. The light is a little on the violet side but very bright. Now the only thing religated to the drawer is the old Z3 bezel.

Oh yea, lest I forget, the "cool factor" was definately doubled by giving it the KL3.