Help needed choosing my first 2AA LED conversion

Hi,

After collecting thousands of dollars worth of SFs, PTs, M*gs, ARC AAAs etc I think I'm finally done collecting OEM lights....soooo......

I'm finally going to venture into the 2AA LED conversion option. I want the brightest regulated light possible from the LED conversion. Would this be the Badboy 2AA 500mAH kit for the M*g?

How does the Badboy compare with the KL1?

Thanks

Look at the InReTECH adapter

Thanks,

I was looking to start with a regulated 2AA conversion so I could try it with 2 2000mAH AA rechargeable batteries. I just looked at the runtime chart and the Inretech does not look regulated. Do you know how the Inretech 2AA white would perform with the rechargeables?

Thanks.

Consider these before you buy anything.

I just bought tonight from elektrolumens via email an AA flashlight running a focusable 5watt cyan luxeon for $149. It is custom built into a garrity flashlight. It is resistored for rechargeable batteries. It has a custom holder for 6AA batteries. It is fully focusable. Elektrolumens told me that the side emitter for the cyan 5watt sucks; its beam is to wide and unfocusable. So he's building it out of a lambertian cyan emitter 5watt. It will get 2 hours bright runtime. My maha c401fs charger will recharge 4 2000 mah batteries in 100 minutes. So I can have 8 fresh batteries in 3 hours.

I also bought the madmax sandwich because it is adjustable via a trimpot on the circuit board and it's graph on dat2zip's webpage shows better output with rechargeables than the badboy. People say it will damage nimh if left running but phooey look at the graph. You'd have to be an idiot not to notice the drop off and switch batteries. Well worth it. http://home.attbi.com/~theledguy/hobby/images/graph_red_mini_comparison.gif
I bought the crystal saphire lens for it as well. Also, dat2zip said in his instructions that the conversion needs a switch for the minimag because the minimag on off twist head function dislodges the sandwich. You can buy his kroll switch or fry's ram switch. I bought both and will decide which is best.
Kroll switch http://home.attbi.com/~theledguy/cpf_store/misc.htm#Kroll%20tailcap%20Switch
Ram switch
http://shop2.outpost.com/product/3407283

You can get an arc ls2rev2 for $90 from arc. It's water proof but you have to ask Peter Gransee if he has solved the flex problem with his flashlights. It would be annoying to have it flicker and turn permanently dim and have to send it in for repair. Beautiful flashlight. Just make sure to ask if it is fixed from the flex bug.
http://store.yahoo.com/flashlight/blemishedls2.html

Always check here to see what custom jobs are offered on ebay:
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?GetResult&SortProperty=MetaHighestPriceSort&query=led&from=R5&ht=1&category3=16037&combine=y&st=2

Lambda has a nice pill but he's always out
http://home.mchsi.com/~lambda/lambda3.htm

You could go direct drive with elektrolumens brinkman or lambda's Q2 or mr bulk lgi or whatever. Make sure to ask for resistor to be added if you want a 3AA direct drive.

But all in all, I'd say get the 6 AA 5watt cyan lambertian focusable resistorred for rechargeable battery use GARITTY flashlight by elektrolumens for $149 is the best value. It is one of a kind. Every one else offers only D cell 5 watt luxeon mods and only collimated not focusable.

If you'd want another flashlight get elektrolumens to build you a collimated cyan 5watt lambertian flashlight using 6AA batteries and resistorred for rechargeables in say a maglite 2d flashlight body. I think elektrolumens will build this for you for $69, maybe a little more. You may have to settle for the 5 or 6 D cell
flashlight for the $69 or $79
price; I think it's more
work to make it accomodate the AA batteries. I
may be wrong, so ask him.
THe 5 watt cyan collimated light puts out so much more light than the 1 watt luxeon that it isn't funny. The 1 watt lights up a circlular area. The 5 watt lights up the entire side of my room. However it doesn't cast any further than the 1 watt because the optics suck. That's why you need a focusable flashlight to get good casting with the 5 watt cyan emitter. Elektrolumens told me side emitting 5 watt cyan's suck; lambertians actually focus better.

When you buy a sandwich mod for the minimag you'll spend 40 for sandwich, 7 for minimag, 5 for tailcap switch for $52. For just $17 to
$27more you could get a collimated 6AA or 6d flashlight (I'm not sure which he'd build for this price). It'd blow everything else away.

I know 6AA batteries sound like alot. But my maha c401fs charger does 4AA 2000mah batteries in 100 minutes. 6AA is no problem.
http://www.elektrolumens.com/

The InReTECH 2AA adapters will not work with rechargables NiCad and NiMh batteries have two low of a voltage to get the LED to work

I am a electronics eng with over 25yrs experience, my last job was designing very high eff switching power supplies for P2/P3 processors at Intel Corp

Our first design was a step-up switcher that would work with any battery from 0.9 to 5v; and it worked GREAT; but it did not run very long

The one thing that the companies that make switchers don't tell you is the incredibly poor eff on the products

For example, one company that made a switcher had these parameters:

Input voltage 3.0v @ 700ma (2.1w)
Output voltage 3.5v @ 350ma (1.2w)

Eff = 1.2/2.1, or 57%

This conversion of 2.1w in, and 1.2w out means
a conversion eff of 57%, this in simple terms
means that 43% of the batteries energy is being WASTED in the conversion

With a nearly "infinite" power supply such as 110v wall, wasting 43% is not a problem - but when you are strictly limited to what you can carry in your hand - you truly need to use every little amount of energy you have

You can improve the eff of the switcher by adding more parts, but then the price gets very expensive and its not possible to fit it into the size requirements of the product

Our 2AA adapter was specifically designed to work with Alkalines and Lithium batteries, and wastes NOTHING of getting energy from the batteries into light; you get 16hrs of very bright light and then a complete Month of being able to read maps

www.inretech.com/batlife.htm

It all depends what you are looking for, the InReTECH was designed to give the max amount of light for the longest period of time with no waste; but unfort - it doesn't allow for rechargable technology

The InReTech TriLight/Super6 do allow for NiCads/NiMh

I just ordered an inretech last week, because it seems to meet my criteria for an excellent light.

positives: inexpensive, VERY bright, long runtime, simple, tough, reliable, AA lithium compatible (a very welcome feature in cold michigan), fairly small.

negative: possible green luxeon. i had a reactor, and disliked the green beam--it was very green even on lithiums. the beam also seemed too narrow for my tastes.

i am crossing my fingers: if i like the inretech, i will soon be ordering a bunch for gifts!

take care,
Bob

I just got my Inretech 2AA white conversion and I love it. I can't wait to put some lithiums in it. This isn't a plug or anything (well maybe a little), but the 22.6mm glass lens fits great in front of the plastic lens assembly Inretech provides - keeping it scratch free!

Chris

Hi Chris. I just placed an order for 2 of your glass lens' to use with my Badboy conversion. I want to go all out on this one

The good thing is, no one will suspect that the mag AA is really a $55 LED conversion so I can leave it out on my desk and no one will take it!

Here is a link to some beam pics. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003904#00 0000

The problem mentioned above is not a problem of the adapter, it is the poor design of the switch of the flashlight

The bottom spring presses the batteries up which push againest the black spacer inside the flashlight which pushes a small metal tab to make contact with the underside of the rim of the flashlight

If the spring is "weak" or there is dirt/rust/? on the underside of the rim, you will not get full power to the adapter, here are some easy fixes:

1) Using a pair of needlenose pliers, stretch out the spring just a little

2) With the adapter installed, gently pull on the adapter and the plastic piece marked "DO NOT REMOVE" and rotate it a couple of times, this will cause the metal contact to scrape clean any dirt/rust/etc on the underside of the rim

3) Some of the batteries have those little LCD power meters on the side of them which allow you to check your battery level, unfort sometimes - they rub on the inside of the flashlight case and do not allow the batteries to freely "float" inside the case which is crucial for the switch to work

WOW, thanks guys. Loads of information. I think I will start my journey into the LED mods with the BadBoy 500mAH. I'm sure I'll have more questions for you guys! The major reason I'm choosing the Badboy is because it's regulated, I'll start from there. Thanks again!

Originally posted by pedalinbob:
negative: possible green luxeon. i had a reactor, and disliked the green beam--it was very green even on lithiums. the beam also seemed too narrow for my tastes.

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Both of the Inretech adaptors I received recently were VERY noticeably green. After having trouble with the order, I specifically asked to have them checked out prior to shipment, so I assume this is normal.
Here is a beamshot with the brighter of the two I got (KL1, Inretech, X5, SL4AA). It's very bright, but very green

I recieved an Inretech conversion about two weeks ago and have been happy with it's performance. At very close distances it appears somewhat green, but when used at any distance over five feet the green tint disapears all together.

The only problem that I have had so far is that when I first got it, about thrity percent of the time when I turned it on it would only light up to about half power. After removing and re-inserting the adapter however, the light performed without flaw.

I chose the Inretech adapter because I was looking for a fairly bright, long running, reliable flashlight for EDC/emergency use. IMHO the main advantage of LEDs is superior runtime and ruggedness. When that runtime is decreased to an hour or so, this advantage is not truly put to proper use, and all that you have is a durable, semi-bright, short-running flashlight. If I want a bright light that lasts one or two hours I will buy an incandecant.

Respectfully,
Dale

Hi,

Ok, got another question. What is the "pill"? Does it cure flashaholicism? LOL Just kidding. Anyway, I've heard the term "pill" several times.

Sorry I'm still new to mods. Thought I'd make a New Years resolution to learn mods in 2003!

Originally posted by ledfanfromjuno:
But all in all, I'd say get the 6 AA 5watt cyan lambertian focusable resistorred for rechargeable battery use GARITTY flashlight by elektrolumens for $149 is the best value. It is one of a kind. Every one else offers only D cell 5 watt luxeon mods and only collimated not focusable.

Click to expand...

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Ledfanfromjuno, you don't need resistor for 6AA 5W LS or 3AA 1W LS as long as the light is well heatsinked. I have been using 6AA 5W white (Cyclops 5W from Lambda) LS in NiMH 2000ma with your beloved *fully focusable* function without resistor for quite a while. I don't know about Cyan but my 5W White SE LS focus VERY WELL without any ring and have great deal of smooth spill. please refer to http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=000860#000000

and

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=000794#000000

Lambda is the first one in this forum to make focusable light with SE. However, they always run out of stock due to limitation of GOOD white LS. The same reason that it's difficult to get LGI from Mr. Bulk.

Alan