New LED bulbs

Hi,
Has anyone experienced with this Epieon bulb : http://www.ledcorp.com/newbulb_lg.jpg (http://www.ledcorp.com/probulb2.html) R they really that good ? I like to have one for my 6v lantern, however, I'm a little concerned of : " Note: ….. (Some lanterns may require reverse polarity) ". What to do if mine happens to be the case?

How about the other bulb: http://www.ledcorp.com/bulb99_lg.gif (http://www.ledcorp.com/bulb_99-4.html)
Maybe I choose this one: $13 is a lot less than the "brighter than Krypton" $40 Epieon and the review rated it pretty good too + the battery life's up to 250 hrs
Please let me know what you think

Do I search on the EverLED; it can be used with 1-6 cells.

Haven't used either of those bulbs (first one looks like a Luxeon - depending on whether it's a 1W or 3W, and how well the bulb socket on your flashlight is heatsinked, you may have thermal problems on extended runs), but here's what's up with the reverse polarity bit:

Incandescent bulbs don't care about which direction the battery is connected to them (or even if they're getting AC or DC). LEDs are a polarity-sensitive device - you need one which is mounted to the PR base so that it's forward-biased in normal operation.

For cylindrical flashlights, the tip contact of the PR bulb touches the "button" on the positive terminal of the battery, while the shell is connected to the light body (which, through the contact spring at the base, is connected to the negative terminal of the battery). Depending on the model of flashlight, the switch may be in either the negative or positive lead, but it doesn't matter. These lights need the LED cathode connected to the tip contact of the PR base.

For lanterns taking a 6V square spring-terminal battery, many of them have the tip contact of the PR bulb going to the centre (negative) terminal of the battery, while the shell contact goes to the corner (positive) terminal. These lights need the LED cathode connected to the shell contact of the PR base.

Your safest bet is to use a voltmeter to see whether you've got a "positive tip" or "negative tip" wiring in your light, then e-mail the vendor with this information to find out which LED you should order.

The Epieon drop-in is very nice. Not quite as versatile as an Everled, but very nice. I've got one in my KBS 3C and it throws out a nice beam.

If you're wanting a lantern drop-in, though, I'm thinking you're probably going to have a reversed polarity, like was discussed above.

Additionally, the company that sells both of those, LEDCorp, hasn't been very easy to get ahold of lately. Emails were going unnoticed, phone disconnected, so even if you wanted one of those you might not be able to get one.

Search for LEDCorp and you'll find what you need to know. .

An everled "diamond" edition is made for lantern style flashlights with the reversed polarity.
These run a coons age at full brightness on a 6v lantern alkaline battery.

I have an Epieon in a 3-cell M*glight and it's ok. I like the runtime - it served me well during the Big Blackout 2 summers ago - but the stock reflector doesn't work well with the drop-in. I've been meaning to change it out.

Thanks for enlighten me with all replies. I think I'll go with the EverLED as greenLED suggested (their new improve bulbs now have reverse polarity protection so I'd be worry free with my lantern)
I like the Lambertian bulb for its good throw beam (http://www.ledsupply.com/lamb-everled.html) By the way anyone knows about the "Teal"? It says: "The brightest of all EverLED™ colors, good alternative to white" (http://www.ledsupply.com/03012t.html) I like my lantern to have the best useable light, however, its beam is kind of bluish. How clarity does it shine things at night (compare to white)? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I prefer the 6v battery to 4 Ds for my lantern. I believe this big bulky one would last very long but I can never find it's on sale (always $10+) so I'd better stick with the Ds in an adapter /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif

In general, our eyes perceive tints of green better than other colors, so "green" (or cyan) seems brighter. IMO, it's horrible when you really need to distinguish between colors. The same applies to other colored LED's. For general purpose illumination, I use white LED's (regardless of the blueish tint they get when overdriven).

IMHO, i think in a bright light like your's that is going to be used for many tasks, a white pop in is for the best.
I like, green, the night vision kind, it seem's a good bit brighter then white, and seem's to have a lot of defination. But,, with white, the color correctness on a much used light will be more important in the long run.VDG

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I prefer the 6v battery to 4 Ds for my lantern. I believe this big bulky one would last very long but I can never find it's on sale (always $10+) so I'd better stick with the Ds in an adapter


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Back when gasoline was leaded (i.e. Zinc-Carbon batteries), the square spring-top (and rectangular screw-top) batteries were "honest" (i.e. they were made with 4 or 8 "F" cells respectively). Now, with alkalines delivering a higher power density, it's probable that these "out of sight out of mind" batteries use cells with less capacity (judging by hand, a "spring top" didn't seem to weigh more than a 4-pack of "D" cells). Some years back, I disassembled a "shortie" (height of a "D" cell - came with a lantern) screw-top that had suffered mechanical damage - it contained 8 "C" cells and a plastic "spider" to space them out. You might want to try disassembling a (dead) "spring-top" to see what it actually contains.

Remember, these are distributed by the same companies as (retail) NiMH cells. If you want a real laugh, find someplace that sells "bunny" NiMH, and take a look at the specs on the AA and the D - at Home Depot the other day, I saw that the AA was rated at 2500 mAH, and the D at 2000 mAH.