Possible TL3 rechargeable mod ??

Hello, and greetings to you all here at CPF!

After very many visits to the forum over the last few years, enjoying it immensely and learning a lot, here is my first post (my first ever on any forum, as a matter of fact /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif).

I am wondering if the following setup will work in your opinion (or has somebody thought of it before; I didn't find any such posts):

a) Streamlight TL3
b) 3x rechargeable CR 123 (10.8-12.7 Volts)
c) Welch Allyn 1166 bi-pin (11.6 V; 1.97 Amps; 22.85 Watts)

Questions:

Batteries:
1) Will the CR123's fit?
2) Will they work?
3) Will they supply the needed 2 Amps?

Bulb:
4) Will the W.A. 1166 fit? (or which comparable bulb will?)
5) Will it work? (and be neither too over- or underdriven?)

Lamp:
6) Will the TL3 stock body, reflector and lens handle the heat?

7) What would be the estimated runtime?
8) Am I missing something?

If this all would work, wouldn't this be a very nice, relatively cheap and easy (not EDC but coat-pocketable) powerhouse?

Curious what you think of it.

Kees

It does appear that you can get 2 amps out of those cells for a little while. The usual approach is two cells and a 9 volt bulb like the TL3 bulb. Some people are doing that with 2-cell Surefire bodies and a P90 lamp (extremists are using the P91). I've been interested in trying a TL3 bulb with two 3.6v rechargeable cells in a TL2.

A 1166 with 3 cells in a TL3 is probably asking for a meltdown.

paulr,

Thank you for your quick reply. Yes, I read about those two-cell setups, but was just asking myself if this could be taken one step further. But you think probably not. Pity, though.

Kees

I'm no expert myself, but if I've read other posts correctly, running several lithium-ion batteries in series can lead to the over-discharge of individual cells unless monitered very closely. You can get rechargable 123's (J.S. Burly's) which are protected against over-discharge but they are much more expensive than bare cells.

Any of you experienced flashaholics, feel free to correct me if I am wrong. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Thanks for the comments. I just did another search and found a thread started by fellow newby hw 5951 a few months ago, asking the same question. All in all I think I won't try it. TL3 bulb in TL2 with two 3.6V rechargeables sounds interesting, and the smaller format is an advantage.

One mod I have been toying with is two 150 a li-ions (tactical warehouse has them on sale) and a ca 1499. It should fit. The bulb is listed at 350 lumens. It will fry the lense though if used over just a few minutes. I will have to take a look to see if you can put a glass lense in it.

the 1166 is very bright but runtime and heat are issue...

you can try the 1314, double the runtime but 1/3 of output...

you can remain with the original bulb and use 2 16500 for 1hr of runtime, i think this is the cheaper conversion

remember that with the WA bulbs you must enlarge the hole of the reflector

Allright, thank you for two interesting suggestions.
(by the way, my answering may sometime take a while because I live by the European clock)

oklalawman,
Where can I buy this ca 1499; how many Volts is it? According to Quickbeam's review, the TL3 has a high temperature glass lense, so would heat still be a problem?

davidefromitaly,
I don't know which batteries you mean by 16500? These are probably not Pila's? Another point is that Quickbeam (yes, him again, he has a marvellous site) has tried two Pila 150's in the TL3 and they fit, but won't work. I don't understand why this is. Does the slightly greater length obstruct the switch? And won't this be the case with the 16500's?

Kees

maybe the pila are slightly different from the 16500, they are charged at 4,2V and have 3,7V nominal. the total lenght is 10cm against 10,35cm of 3 cr123a. i think this difference can be absorbed by the springs in the tailcap and under the lamp

don't know who have the 16500, try to ask to AW, emilion, fourseven, fivemega...

The correct lion batt is 17500, from www.sabahoceanic.com or www.slavin4u.com. The Pila 150s is too long - 53mmx2 = 106mm but u can run with 1x150s + 17500. Thats what i have in mine. The 150s will cut out when low voltage but there is a mismatch. Also I found that the 17500 got killed when my 6 yr old daughter played until the 150s shut off but did not shut off the tl3. It got discharged to 0v. So be careful.

It looks like Kevin is right on the battery. The Ca 1499 is a Carley special bulb. You have to order from them and they have a $50 minimum. You might check with Fivemega and see if he has any left from his stinger mods.

Thank you for those suggestions! So my TL3 upgrade is still a possibility; some questions to be solved regarding heat and 3 rechargeable 123's managing the current. I'll look further into it.

Kees

DONT use 3 rcr123!!! It will kill the bulb. 3xrcr123=3.6v x 3 = 10.8v .

But discharge is at 1.5c = 650ah x 1.5 = 1.3a .

Oops!

There, you 've done it. I must be infected now (the flashgerm). Oklalawman, after your suggestion I looked up the Stinger upgrade thread by fivemega, and now I want one of these! I was afraid this would happen after joining CPF. Always thought I had built up resistance as an unregistered user, but no. Can't say I haven't been warned, though/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif. So, I'll think about this one again. Must keep a closer eye on these kinds of group buys, I guess.

Kees

Time for a summary I think.

Thanks to all of you for answering my questions! My conclusion is that two Pila's don't work in the TL3 (Quickbeam confirmed this). If the Li-ion 17500 fits, this will be great, but I really wanted to achieve higher output than stock. The alternative would be 3 R123's with a high voltage bulb (W.A./Carley). But your posts suggests that this will probably cause problems in current- and/or heat management.

As I am not prepared to feed any light with CR123's because of cost and environmental considerations, the TL3 is no longer an option.

Which brings me to the 2xR123 in a TL2, which should give the same output, with less throw, than the TL3, but in a much smaller format.

After reading about the Stinger upgrade, I think a light of this kind would complement the TL2 (more or less EDC) beautifully in cases I expext to need real throw. And I am sure that over here in the Netherlands (flashaholic desert country) both lights would draw enough attention (wow factor)!

Well, this has been a most instructive first thread for me, and I am looking forward to future ones.

Kees

One more thought for you. Use the TL3, good output, good throw, and use 2 unprotected RCR123's, and a Cr123 spacer, or something conductive as your third cell. I say unprotected RCR123 because these cells will supply the needed voltage, and current without shutting down when light is turned down, as is sometimes true with protected RCR123's which work better in single cell lights. Read up on RCR123 cells in the battery forum. Surefire.com sells dummy Cr123 cells, I use one. Also, see incadescent forum for discussion on use of P90 lamp assembly in two cell Surefire lights. I am currently running two Battery Space RCR123's in a Surefire C2 light, with the P90 Lamp Assembly, and I have used the P91 LA in that light, for amazing brightness, and throw.

Bill

Bullzeyebill,

According to davidefromitaly's runtime plots, the P90 on two RCR123's goes from (lux at one metre) 5000-4000 in 25 minutes, and TL3 from 3000-2400 in 27 minutes. This is worth thinking about despite the higher cost of the P90; the difference in brightness is more than I had expected.

The (probably spectacular) P91 will probably have a runtime of some 15 minutes. A bit short.

So, thanks for making me think again, once more /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/clap.gif

Kees