The Complete 2D-3D 3X LuxIII mod (high bandwidth)

ok as you know i been trying to make a 2D to 3D MAG mod
it uses 3 Nicad D cells, that i had laying around
and 3 LuxIIIs and modamags tri-star type synk
and a bunch of stuff from the garage /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Some of the pictures are really out of focus, but its good for having Mod in one hand little no-zoom camera in the other.

CAPTIONS are UNDER the pics.


i am gonna try and fit all this stuff in the tailcap, and then some


this is the postive contact button , and the wires that will go to the luxes. its a Screw, with raw copper wires soldered to the tip. a neoprene washer and shrink tubing , keep it from makkng contact with the synk.


This is the screw button thing , inserted into the heat synk



this is realizing that the bare wires must be covered, so more heat shrink



that is how it should fit when i am ready to install it in, i still have to mount the stars



the stars ground down, and made very rough so the epoxy will hold forever (a 100% unnessisary step usually)



Squeezing out the Last of tubes of jbweld, i wont need much, and i used to much.



Jb under the synk to lock it into the mag head permanentally.
The 2 surfaces where "ground together" i spun the synk with the drill, and that ground the surfaces to match eachother, then (way to much) jb weld was put on those ground surfaces




Jb under the stars, of course to much again, but it'll sQuuuuish out during clamping.



see way to much, thats it OOOZing out , ready to jump on the threads and make my life heck. i cleaned off most of it, and checked the threads, before clamping



ready to clamp, i stuck actual optics in, because , well what else was going to fit over 3 heads right.
then i put rubber washers on the top face, and rubber behind the head, and clamped it down in the vice, using just the right pressure.
if i did it correct, there would be Power conduction, from the head, to the synk

Re: The Complete 2D- 3D 3X LuxII mod (high bandwidth)



an old stereo part, that i am going to need the small momentary switches from.



ok remove that huge mag switch assembley, otherwise i wont get 3D cells in it

the switch attached to the wires that will have to travel past the batteries.



test test test, everything is tested many times to insure it will go together, they call that R&D in the real world, here we call it R&D too, Rip & Damage /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif



now check to see that the batteries slide past it, without exposing the wires. good quality shielding on the wire is very important here.

remember the MAG switch assembly was COMPLETLY removed, and the HOLE is filled with batteries instead.



What the heck is that thing, its a nub of some sort, and its messing with the battery insertion, and could possibly rip the insulation off them, so Grind away, and no more nub



ok this is the tail spring Lift idea, so the tail is disconnected from the body, the switch will be making this connection.
a hunk of strong insulative plastic, a washer, that is soldered to the wire.



This is the top cap thing, one more wire that has to pass through the body.



a altered finishing washer, soldered to a wire, this is needed ONLY because i am putting in a charge connection in the bottom.



The wires have to go THROUGH the spring, so i compress the spring to find the location where they will get damaged the least, when the spring goes down.



Finally the head is dry, 24 hours for a complete cure of JB Weld, you can see my cleanup of the EXCESS that i got in it

Re: The Complete 2D- 3D 3X LuxII mod (high bandwidth)



there you can see the JB oozing out , this is now dry, and it looks good to go.
i check to make sure there is Head to Sync conduction of electricity, there is, so i wont have to wire or screw that to pass the negative power to the sync, instead i can . .



Drill a hole in the synk , and put a small screw in, with a 220W soldering iron i could solder 3 wires to it, even though its hard to get it that hot when its driven into a heat synk.
see the green read and black wire, they are the negative from the screw in the sync.



then a piece of plastic reflection stuff, to insure that all of the light goes foreward, even the stuff that spills out of the optics. a hole punch was an easy tool to get the holes in, otherwize it would have been a bigger mess than it is. the plastic is totally non conductive, but highly reflective,



ok now 3 Perfectally placed holes in the tailcap, one misteak here, and nothing would fit right.
see that Reamer? that is great for making ANY size hole, when you dont have the right bit, also i can manually grind it open a bit.



ya sure, you can drill a hole, next picture



ahh, now this is a picture. 3 SIX degree optics, and the reflective stuff, and one shredded original polycarbonate lense. better order me a new one.



aggg another problem. i used an RCA (phono) type jack for the charger, because it will FIT, BUT then i remembered it could NOT be grounded. oh Great.
so I sleved it with heat shrink tubing again, then used small rubber rings on both sides. the plastic rings were to thick, even though they would have been better.



now to hold the rubber correctally, a divot around the hole is made with a bigger drill. that will (supposedly) keep the rubber in the slot.



Piece of cake, it all fits perfect. ummm now what ELSE do i need, OH oh.



this is the diodes for the charger (unnessisary reverse charging protection) it also serves to have the indicator light ONLY light when the charger is put in and is powered up. because power only goes in one direction.
i teamed up 2 small diodes, each will handle 1A, before they smoke and stuff , so 2 is good.

the resister is for the (now white) led, that is supposed to turn on when a charger is connected. it has to handle charge voltage, so its a lot of resistance.
but it should help FIND the thing when its charging.

Re: The Complete 2D- 3D 3X LuxII mod (high bandwidth)



now you can see why i assembled that stuff out of the cap, that way i just shove it in, and make the last solder point.
(its a lot smaller than it looks)



oh all the parts are in now.
the one you cannot see, is a 4ohm resister of high wattage value, its pushed into the corner, and kinda sinks itself on the tailcap.
when run that low, very little current flowed through it, and it didnt much get warm.
that is for the Low (tent light) setting.

ok see that RIGHT orange wire , that one is the connection to the body of the light (-). i could NOT solder it to the switch, or the switch would melt, but i had to get it grounded. so i was able to solder it to the Led metal frame (not connected to the led) to get the ground connection.

the longer orange wire, goes to that washer that will direct connect to the battery negative.





soldered the momentary switches wires to the other switch



ok so there is all the wires that come off the tail cap



and there they are trying to be routed through the spring, with (of course) another compression test.



ok its all ready this time for sure rockey
i added in some foam tape (not shown) to hold it longer.
Look REAL close, and you will see that the bottom part of the spring, has heat shrink on it, to reduce any contact from below.



ok now i screw the tailcap on, with the wires going round and round. they must stay straight, and flat, and in position.

visual check, and a long probe to adjust it a bit, before i plop the first battery on top of it.

the tailcap CANNOT be removed with the batteries in.



aww crud, that is a hot lead, and it was moving around, and so it certannly needs more heat shrink.

Re: The Complete 2D- 3D 3X LuxII mod (high bandwidth)



test that tail light, after all it dont do nothing without power from the charger.



the end of it



the business end lit up



ok now how do i do a comparison? i dont have any Incadescent flashlights unless you include the 2AA POS plastic thing. and i dont think you could even see that when this light is on.

so there it is on the ceiling compared to a 500W shop halogen. its that dull blue spot .



and here it is by itself.

there is a LOW mode too.

it runs about 9W when the batteries are charged, and after an hour, its dribbled down. the batteries really arent taking the load to well :-(

the low mode should run for 16-20 hours.

then of course there is the momentary switch WHICH kicks in even when in low mode.
so you can travel in low, then punch it up for a look see.

Re: The Complete 2D- 3D 3X LuxII mod (high bandwi

Wow, thems lots of pics...thanks for the detailed timeline of this project...I guess you weren't kidding hwen you said "high bandwidth"...

Nick

Re: The Complete 2D-3D 3X LuxIII mod (high bandwi

[ QUOTE ]
VidPro said:
test test test, everything is tested many times to insure it will go together, they call that R&D in the real world, here we call it R&D too, Rip & Damage


[/ QUOTE ]

I LOVE that quote! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Great idea on the JB Weld. I was wondering what is the perfect adhesive to hold stars down, and what could be better than a metal-to-metal, metal-impregnated adhesive. I have some "metal cement" that claims to be able to do many of the things JB weld is supposed to.. couldn't find the Real Thing over here unfortunately.

Great light you've got there and congratulations on pulling it off!!

Re: The Complete 2D-3D 3X LuxIII mod (high bandwi

Nice work! It's a good thing I had my fiber-optic connection installed yesterday.

Re: The Complete 2D-3D 3X LuxIII mod (high bandwi

Wow,

Nice account of your work. It's great to see the story of a mod in progress and not just the end results. Thanks so much for sharing your hard work!

Wilkey

Re: The Complete 2D-3D 3X LuxIII mod (high bandwi

That is some serious effort vidpro - amost makes my work going from the ground up seem easier. Nice job.

Re: The Complete 2D-3D 3X LuxIII mod (high bandwi

Nice! crazy mod! You managed to actauly do it, and make it tail cap recharable and dual level to boot!

Is there a circuit or is the power switch momentary on only (the small tact-switch)?

Re: The Complete 2D-3D 3X LuxIII mod (high bandwi

thanks everyone, i couldnt have (or mabey wouldnt have) if it was not for the forum.

""Is there a circuit or is the power switch momentary on only""
the only Circuit, is a resister for the low mode, and the charging junk.
the Momentary switch DOES seem to be handling the power ok, but its not a Membrane switch as i suspected, so its probably ok for 1/10th of what i am putting through it.

Re: The Complete 2D-3D 3X LuxIII mod (high bandwi

yes, those "tact" switches I belive their called don't have carbon/rubber membranes, they have a positive click I guess spring metal that makes contact.

So the light has no constant on then... As far as the current going to the switch if it does fry, it should be easy to swap a new one on. You can get TONS of them from OLD VCR's.

Do you have the rubber mag switch cover over it?

Re: The Complete 2D-3D 3X LuxIII mod (high bandwi

there IS a constant on. the toggle switch on the back goes both ways, up for high, down for low. assuming anybody knows what up and down is on it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

the rubber cover went over it with little problem, i didnt YET have to glue it on. but if i change batteries and they are wider or something, things may change a lot.

Re: The Complete 2D-3D 3X LuxIII mod (high bandwi

update,
i put a GLASS ULC lens in the front of it (flat lens)
and because it does not FLEX when you cap the optics with it, the optics sit perfectally straight.
that has improved the SPOT by quite a bit.

the polycarbonate original lens could be screwed down less or more, bowing the lense, and therby having the optics point outward a BIT.
In other words
with the glass lens they all go straight out and converge into a HOT spot
with the plastic lens Depending on how tight i screwed it down, it would spread the Tri-Beam out.

Re: The Complete 2D-3D 3X LuxIII mod (high bandwi

Good point. I noticed this too but didn't notice the beam change. I saved money by sticking with the stock lens and I have a fear of breaking glass!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif