Solder Blobs

I have been having many problems with the solder blob on my McCapsule. It seems to go bad, and must be remelted every 2 weeks or so. I have removed all of the solder twice, and replaced it with new solder, but every 2 or 3 weeks; the light starts flickering until I remelt it. Does anyone notice this with their McCapsule or LE? What type of solder should I use? I know that basic rosin core electronic solder was not designed for surface contact. And has anyone come up with a way to replace the blob with something else?

I'm using a spring, part of a Mag 2AA tailcap spring to make contact with my Pilas until I get some of those little magnets that Emilion is selling in the exchange forums. I tried soldering a couple of different springs directly to the contact, but they'd just break off the first time I turned the twisty to constant on. I have to put the spring on top of the battery, stick it straight up into the body, hold it in place, then flip the light over and put the tailcap on.
Kind of a pain.
My other thought was to drill a small hole in the center of the PCB(and a separate one for the + to the converter), and put a little screw in it, so there is a protruding contact like on the stock capsules, but it's a little late for that since I've already got the capsule together.
Don't know if that helps or not, but you're not alone! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

I've had to re-do the blob on my MadMax Lite module when it got worn flat and wasn't making good contact.

Following advice on other CPF threads I used solder with silver content as it is supposed to be harder. I got it at Radio Shack. It has worked fairly well although some wear is visible.



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I used Mr.McGizmo's suggestion of soldering the head of a small brass screw to the + area on the board. Has worked perfectly.
Used regular multi core solder.

You could also take a penny, cut it down or punch out a small disk, and solder that in place - it should be plenty for the job.

Zigzago...can you please edit those links into a shorter form. Thanks!

I use silver sodler too. It is tougher than other solders. Soldering button to the contact is a good idea. Just make sure that what you use doesn't rise beyond the rim of the can. If it does, it will defeat the reverse polarity protection.