Painting a Surefire - How?

I'm going to purchase a black shock isolated bezel and clickie tailcap for my 9P, which will leave me with a brand new standard bezel and tailcap. I have a 6P that has a banged up bezel and tailcap (from me dropping it on concrete too many times!). The body is in great shape physically, but the black paint has worn off on the knurling. The side panels where the logos' are located are fine. How would I paint the body without painting the side panels? I guess I could cover them with tape. Any tips on painting the body, if possible?

It's not painted, it's anodized.

Paint is a coating on top of the metal. Anodizing is a chemical change in the outmost layer of the aluminum itself.

If you really want to paint it, clean and degrease well, mask of the areas you don't want painted, and paint.

Just remember that almost no paint will be as durable as the original anodized surface was. Paint will wear, flake, chip, etc more easily than anodizing.

Oh, and depending on how hot the part gets, paint can also melt or burn too. Aluminum can melt or burn, but it takes a much higher temperature. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Hmmm... and then theres the issue of trying to get paint that matches...gloss or semi?

I would definitely NOT paint it. If you want a better-looking one, buy one. Black 6P's are among the most affordable of Surefire's metal-bodied lines. You can probably find one for under $45.

Try touching up the damaged areas with a black sharpie permanent marker. It won't look brand new, but it makes the bad spots less noticable.

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chumley said:
Try touching up the damaged areas with a black sharpie permanent marker.

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lol, at least I know I'm not the only one now..

I think there are some products used for gun blueing that will make a black oxide coating. I used to use cold blueing (also spelled "bluing") on an old steel pistol I had. It wasn't real durable, but it worked okay. If memory serves it worked on aluminum too, but I could be wrong.

Anyway, bottles of cold blueing can usually be found in gun stores for something like $15. You degrease the part and apply with a swab or similar. "Brass black" might work too, also found in gun stores -- the relevant chemistry escapes me.

Scott

I have used sharpie many times for that.. Even on a $2000 light...

LOL!! I'll give it a try and report back....

Ehh, doesn't work too well, looks almost brown against the black anodized....

Try looking at it in the dark, that usually makes it look better. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif

You have some options. First you could have it re annodised, but that might be as much as a new light. You could use the most durable paint you can find, probably either an automotive paint, or an epoxy based paint usually used for appliances. Or you could head to the gun shop and get some aluminum blackening stuff.

Order some Norrells Moly Resin. I have refinished many AR15 components with Moly Resin and have been blown away by the results. Silky black color, just the right rough texture, iron hard finish. It doesent chip... it seals the painted surface from moisture, and has a extremely long wear life, I could go on and on. It requires heating in the oven to harden the finish but the prep is well worth it. Way better finish than engine paint.

Comes in a variety of colors too.