SILVA Headlamp L1 - The Brightest Headlamp??

cue003

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Not sure what that cost. but the HDS Action Light III (www.hdssystems.com) may be just as bright or even brighter and of course there is the super expensive Lupine lighting systems that are out there with multiple LED type configurations. Not sure how any of these will hold up to caving but the HDS system looks like it is solid.

Check them out.

We got to also consider what the Silva people used as a testing method. Brightest is not a hard ward to say.... but brightest for how long. Brightest for the first 3 min is not very useful if you ask me. It is a Lux III, with a reflector and a lens (oversimplied of course..) ... I am sure there are others out there with similiar configurations.... Maybe not up to full blown caving action but just as bright.

Curtis
 

PeLu

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[ QUOTE ]
Size15's said:So is it true, or are there brighter LED headlamps?

[/ QUOTE ]

What is bright? Luminous flux or luminous intensity?

If you look in your own country, cavers prefer the Speleo Technics headtorches.
And the NOVA is hard to beat.

For sheer luminous flux, take a carbide lamp. You cannot beat them with electric lights (at least not now).
 

RobF

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Hey Al,
I'm interested in the subject as well being a caver myself. I've been soliciting responses on some light systems that include the L1- here's a link to the thread: http://www.caves.org/soapbox/showthread.php?t=1253

There are a lot of factors to consider in a light system - throw, size of hot spot, light artifacts/rings/etc., size & brightness of corona/spill, battery use, brightness regulation, etc.

Carbide lights are great light sources for caving but increasingly carbide is off limits in more and more caves. I used carbide exclusively till a few years ago i got fed up during one cave trip with my clogged generator system and switched to my electric backup. I haven't gone back since. Carbide is extremely expensive to ship these days since i think it's considered an explosive. It takes a bit of work cleaning & maintaining your carbide system, can get messy in caves, and you end up accidentally burning things.

Recently another caver here in the U.S. ordered an L1 and will be sending me his report once he tests it out. I'll post it here when i get it.

Rob

P.S. just bought a Streamlight Scorpion flashlight to test out as a compact hand spotting light in the cave. Extremely bright but haven't yet had a chance to test it underground. Funny thing i found out in the enclosed directions - the bulb only lasts for three to five hours...they've included a spare bulb for your trouble (at least the bulb only costs $4.50 at Brightguy.com). Anyone recommend a better similar sized light for under $100 w/ similar operating costs?
 

Size15's

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Rob,

The Scorpion isn't in the slightest bit waterproof. I'd suggest a divelight for caving. I'd rather had a yellow G2 (one with a LockOut TailCap).

With regards to Headlamps my friend has a variety already and wanted to see if anybody had experience of the Silva L1.

Of course the question of brightness is age old. I expect the requirements for a caver's illumination in terms of beam are different than normal EDC.

Thanks

Al
 

PeLu

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[ QUOTE ]
Size15's said:Of course the question of brightness is age old. I expect the requirements for a caver's illumination in terms of beam are different than normal EDC.

[/ QUOTE ]

And contrary to popular believe, brightness should not be the main point .-)

I'm still waiting for light which has all the benefits as a carbide light (but not the drawbacks, of course).

I do not use carbide very much here, although it is easily available here and free for club members.

The main difference is, that almost all electric lights are 'egoistic', they only illuminate the wearer's field of sight.
 

Polaris

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[ QUOTE ]
RobF said:
[.....] I'm interested in the subject as well being a caver myself. [.....]

[/ QUOTE ]

Any caver considering the Silva L1 should please be aware of the following extract in the official instructions—"The L-Series design is rugged and waterproof according to the IPX6 standard (Splash proof). If the headlamp gets dirty – clean it with a damp cloth. <font color="blue">NB! The L-Series is not designed for underwater use. Avoid submersing at all times.</font>"
 

PeterW

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Brightness is useful, but I hope it also has a good low level LONG life level too. I HATE BEAM ARTEFACTS!!! My homebrew Lamina Ceramics headlight gives me a wickedly smooth and wide beam. I must be super sensitive to beam artefacts now.

Can;t wait for some reviews!
PEterW
 

Beaker

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Looks like the Silva L1 is now available in the USA (in limited quantities) from Inner Moutain Outfitters:

http://www.caves.org/imo/LED.htm#L1

I've bought other stuff from them before, they're a good outfit.

If anyone gets one, I'm especially curious as to how it will compare with the Myo XP.
 

gessner17

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I should have one monday or tuesday. I wonder how hard it would be to replace the LUXEON with a nicely binned one /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

Biggimo1

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Inner Mountain Outfitters also sells a Lux 5 headlamp. It costs about $250 and you have to supply your own power source. I didn't say it was the economical choice.

The lupine is supposed to be a bright caving battle tank of a light. Thats just what I read though.
 

gessner17

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My L1 came today, it is fantastic. My only complaint is the headband is too tight. It feels pretty sturdy and is heatsinked well. I took some beamshots comparing it too my U2 and Argo, enjoy


Silva L1 beam shots
 

Malfuntion

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How is the on/off button on the L1?
It´s quite annoing if it turns it self on in the backpack or simular. Are there any risk of that.

Are the beam adjustable.

Please excuse my spelling, Im Swedish (like the Silva by the way)
 

gessner17

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The switch is faily stiff and you have to hold it for 2 seconds for on or off. I would just unplug the the power pack, its simple, then it doesn't have a way to turn on. The beam is not adjustable, but is fine for most apps. It is not a spot, it gives good spill. To me it is more like a big hotspot. I am not sure what kind of optics it uses, they look like some type of concave FRAEN optics.
 
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