modamag
Flashlight Enthusiast
1. Introduction
The purpose of this document is to provide a step by step guide in order to build a 240+ lumens Tri-Star and/or a 360+ lumens Quad-Lux. The build processes are almost identical for a MagLite C | D host.
1b. Difficulty level (3.5 / 5.0)
Minimal experience with soldering is required.
Total time requires ranges from 1-2 hours depending on skill level.
2. Tools & Parts List
Required Tools:
- 1x Soldering station
- 1x 5/64" or 2mm Allen key
- 1x Needle nose pliers
- 1x Wire stripper
- 1x Razor blade (MagC only)
Required Parts:
- 1x MagLite C | D (new version)
Serial # must begins with a "C" or "D"
- 3x Luxeon Stars (for PTS)
- 4x Luxeon Emitters ( for PQS)
- 1x PTS or PQS heat sink
- 3x-4x IMS S020XA reflector (Sandwich Shop)
- 1' 24 gauge wires
- 1x Arctic Alumina epoxy (Sandwich Shop)
Optional but Recommended Items:
- 24 gauge Teflon wire & Bi-Pin connectors
- UCL (flashlightlens.com)
- Arctic Silver thermal grease (Sandwich Shop)
2b. Host & Battery configuration
Tri-Star Direct Drive Configuration (resistor may be necessary depending on Luxeon bin & drive level)
Mag1C - 1x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion - Luxeon in parallel
Mag1D - 3|4x14500 Li-Ion parallel - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag1D - 3|4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag3C - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag3D - 3xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4C - 4xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4D - 4xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Quad-Lux Direct Drive Configuration (resistor may be necessary depending on Luxeon bin & drive level)
Mag1C - 1x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion - Luxeon in parallel
Mag1D - 3|4x14500 Li-Ion in parallel - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag1D - 3|4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series/parallel (2x2) *
Mag2D - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag3C - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag3D - 3xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4C - 4xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4D - 4xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Tri-Star Regulated Configuration (fatman driver)
Mag1D - 4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag4C|D or larger - AA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series
Quad-Lux Regulated Configuration (fatman driver)
Mag1D - 3x14500 Li-Ion in series - Luxeon in series
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag5C|D or larger - AA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series
* Recommended for reasonable performance/size
3. MagLite Disassembly (5 minutes)
Let's start with the removal of the light head. Rotate the head counter clockwise for 15 rotations, and then the head should just fall off.
Next is the removal of the stock MagLite switch assembly. Depress the button to the ON position then pinch the rubber switch cover to remove it (Figure 3-1). Alternatively, you could also use a needle nose plier to pinch the rubber cover. With the Allen key, place it inside the switch hole and rotate counter clockwise to loosen the setscrew (Figure 3-2). The switch assembly should easily slide out the rear (Figure 3-3).
* Figure 3-1
* Figure 3-2
* Figure 3-3
4. Switch Modification (30 minutes)
Using the Allen key unscrew and remove the focusing wheel (Figure 4-1).
Pull out the metal grounding strip with the needle nose plier.
* Figure 4-1
* Figure 4-2
For the MagLite "C" only
Using a small razor blade, gently pry open the switch assembly (Figure 4-3). Be extremely careful so that the spring and washer do not fall out and fly all over the place.
* Figure 4-3
Remove the front contact piece with needle nose pliers.
* Figure 4-4
Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip ¼" of the Teflon shielding, then insert the wire into the front contact piece previously removed (Figure 4-5). Apply some solder on the wire so that it does not slip out.
* Figure 4-5
Install the contact piece into the switch body and reassemble the switch core.
* Figure 4-6
For the MagLite "D" only
Push the switch core out of its housing. Disassemble the core by separating the blue from black cover. Be extremely careful so that the spring and washer do not fall out and fly all over the place.
* Figure 4-7
Remove one of the two metal leaf spring and sand down the "V" section in preparation for soldering.
Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip 1/8" of the Teflon wire. Solder the wire to the leaf spring.
* Figure 4-8
Optional: Using a hacksaw (or band saw), cut off the switch pedestal. This will provide more space inside the light head for the converter or other electronics.
Now reassemble the contact piece and the switch core and switch body.
For either MagLite "C" or "D" body
Cut the metal grounding strip, sand the tip to make it easier for soldering then bend it into an "O" shape.
Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip 1/8" of the Teflon wire. Place the stripped wire inside the "O" and apply solder.
Now reassemble the metal strip with setscrew to the switch assembly.
Cut a small ¼" section of shrink tubing to hold the two wires together.
Optional: Strip the wire and using a crimper (or needle nose pliers) to connect to the female end of the bi-pin connector.
* Figure 4-9
5. Light Engine Assembly (30 minutes)
Thoroughly clean the heat sink (PTS | PQS) with alcohol.
Mix the two part thermal epoxy then apply a thin coat to the back on the Luxeon. Note: A single drop of epoxy will go a long way.
Place the Luxeon inside the heat sink recess pocket. For the PQS, just rotate the emitter it will lock itself once it falls in the pocket. DO NOT ATTEMPT to line up the emitter leads to the vertical epoxy relief channels on the PQS. Those channels are designed for the excess epoxy to escape out. The emitter leads should be 45° off axis.
* Figure 5-1
Optional: If you plan to use this with a converter then place the Luxeon so that they the word "Lumileds" point in one direction for PTS. This will reduce the need of extraneous wiring which will decrease efficiency of the circuit.
Place the assemble heat sink into the light head. Install the SO20XA reflectors and the lens. Tighten the lens retaining ring so that the reflectors no longer move around. At this point there should be enough force between the lens and heat sink to press the Luxeon in place.
* Figure 5-2
Let it cure for at least 20 minutes.
Optional: If you're using the bi-pin connector then it's time to prepare the male end. Connect the negative wire of the bi-pin header to the negative end of the Luxeon and v.v. for the positive.
Apply solder to the six solder pads closest to the center hole. Strip and cut two pieces of wires to form connecting bridge between the pads. Hint: Using a needle nose plier to hold the wires while soldering will prevent the wires from rolling.
* Figure 5-3
* Figure 5-4
6. Final Light Assembly (20 minutes)
Install the switch assembly back into the light body. Center the button. With an Allen key tighten the set screw. Reinstall the rubber switch cover.
Optional: If you are using a converter such as BadBoy, Downboy, Fatman or nFlex, it is recommended that you pot the converter against the light body to help cool the converter.
Recommended: Apply a generous amount of thermal grease (Artic Silver) to the outer body thread then screw on the light head without the heat sink or reflectors (Figure 6-1).
* Figure 6-1
Apply generous amount thermal grease to the shoulder of the light head (Figure 6-2).
* Figure 6-2
Connect the bi-pin connector male & female end. Insert the light engine so that it's seated squarely on the shoulder. Rotate the heat sink half a revolution counter clockwise for the wires to fold internally. This will also help spread the thermal grease evenly around the heatsink.
Install the three IMS SO20XA reflectors.
Install the lens and tighten the lens bezel retaining ring.
Hint: To avoid the lens from rotating and getting scratch, use a cloth and your finger press down on the lens.
* Figure 6-3
Note: If for any reason your UCL is not "Ultra Clear", I recommend cleaning it with a little Windex and newspaper. Try to avoid direct hand contact with the UCL because your hand will leave a layer of oil on the glass.
7. "Let There Be Light!"
Congratulation, the light is now finish. It's time to have fun. Just don't look directly into the light.
* Figure 7-1
========================================
============== Side Notes ==================
1. If you want to build a single Luxeon mod follow MrBulk's Space Needle II Build Instruction.
2. If you're planning of Direct Driving this light, please refer to the Direct Drive Reference Sheet for an estimated current output level.
3. PDF version of this is available here.
Hosting courtesy of the Sandwich Shop.
<font color="blue">Please let me know if there is any ambiguity or any recommendation to improve on the build process.</font>
The purpose of this document is to provide a step by step guide in order to build a 240+ lumens Tri-Star and/or a 360+ lumens Quad-Lux. The build processes are almost identical for a MagLite C | D host.
1b. Difficulty level (3.5 / 5.0)
Minimal experience with soldering is required.
Total time requires ranges from 1-2 hours depending on skill level.
2. Tools & Parts List
Required Tools:
- 1x Soldering station
- 1x 5/64" or 2mm Allen key
- 1x Needle nose pliers
- 1x Wire stripper
- 1x Razor blade (MagC only)
Required Parts:
- 1x MagLite C | D (new version)
Serial # must begins with a "C" or "D"
- 3x Luxeon Stars (for PTS)
- 4x Luxeon Emitters ( for PQS)
- 1x PTS or PQS heat sink
- 3x-4x IMS S020XA reflector (Sandwich Shop)
- 1' 24 gauge wires
- 1x Arctic Alumina epoxy (Sandwich Shop)
Optional but Recommended Items:
- 24 gauge Teflon wire & Bi-Pin connectors
- UCL (flashlightlens.com)
- Arctic Silver thermal grease (Sandwich Shop)
2b. Host & Battery configuration
Tri-Star Direct Drive Configuration (resistor may be necessary depending on Luxeon bin & drive level)
Mag1C - 1x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion - Luxeon in parallel
Mag1D - 3|4x14500 Li-Ion parallel - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag1D - 3|4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag3C - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag3D - 3xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4C - 4xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4D - 4xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Quad-Lux Direct Drive Configuration (resistor may be necessary depending on Luxeon bin & drive level)
Mag1C - 1x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion - Luxeon in parallel
Mag1D - 3|4x14500 Li-Ion in parallel - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag1D - 3|4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series/parallel (2x2) *
Mag2D - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag3C - 3xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag3D - 3xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4C - 4xC NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Mag4D - 4xD NiMh - Luxeon in parallel
Tri-Star Regulated Configuration (fatman driver)
Mag1D - 4xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag4C|D or larger - AA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series
Quad-Lux Regulated Configuration (fatman driver)
Mag1D - 3x14500 Li-Ion in series - Luxeon in series
Mag2C - 2x17500|18500|17650|18650 Li-Ion series - Luxeon in series *
Mag2D - 8xAA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series *
Mag5C|D or larger - AA NiMh in series - Luxeon in series
* Recommended for reasonable performance/size
3. MagLite Disassembly (5 minutes)
Let's start with the removal of the light head. Rotate the head counter clockwise for 15 rotations, and then the head should just fall off.
Next is the removal of the stock MagLite switch assembly. Depress the button to the ON position then pinch the rubber switch cover to remove it (Figure 3-1). Alternatively, you could also use a needle nose plier to pinch the rubber cover. With the Allen key, place it inside the switch hole and rotate counter clockwise to loosen the setscrew (Figure 3-2). The switch assembly should easily slide out the rear (Figure 3-3).
* Figure 3-1
* Figure 3-2
* Figure 3-3
4. Switch Modification (30 minutes)
Using the Allen key unscrew and remove the focusing wheel (Figure 4-1).
Pull out the metal grounding strip with the needle nose plier.
* Figure 4-1
* Figure 4-2
For the MagLite "C" only
Using a small razor blade, gently pry open the switch assembly (Figure 4-3). Be extremely careful so that the spring and washer do not fall out and fly all over the place.
* Figure 4-3
Remove the front contact piece with needle nose pliers.
* Figure 4-4
Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip ¼" of the Teflon shielding, then insert the wire into the front contact piece previously removed (Figure 4-5). Apply some solder on the wire so that it does not slip out.
* Figure 4-5
Install the contact piece into the switch body and reassemble the switch core.
* Figure 4-6
For the MagLite "D" only
Push the switch core out of its housing. Disassemble the core by separating the blue from black cover. Be extremely careful so that the spring and washer do not fall out and fly all over the place.
* Figure 4-7
Remove one of the two metal leaf spring and sand down the "V" section in preparation for soldering.
Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip 1/8" of the Teflon wire. Solder the wire to the leaf spring.
* Figure 4-8
Optional: Using a hacksaw (or band saw), cut off the switch pedestal. This will provide more space inside the light head for the converter or other electronics.
Now reassemble the contact piece and the switch core and switch body.
For either MagLite "C" or "D" body
Cut the metal grounding strip, sand the tip to make it easier for soldering then bend it into an "O" shape.
Cut a 3" piece of 24G wire and strip 1/8" of the Teflon wire. Place the stripped wire inside the "O" and apply solder.
Now reassemble the metal strip with setscrew to the switch assembly.
Cut a small ¼" section of shrink tubing to hold the two wires together.
Optional: Strip the wire and using a crimper (or needle nose pliers) to connect to the female end of the bi-pin connector.
* Figure 4-9
5. Light Engine Assembly (30 minutes)
Thoroughly clean the heat sink (PTS | PQS) with alcohol.
Mix the two part thermal epoxy then apply a thin coat to the back on the Luxeon. Note: A single drop of epoxy will go a long way.
Place the Luxeon inside the heat sink recess pocket. For the PQS, just rotate the emitter it will lock itself once it falls in the pocket. DO NOT ATTEMPT to line up the emitter leads to the vertical epoxy relief channels on the PQS. Those channels are designed for the excess epoxy to escape out. The emitter leads should be 45° off axis.
* Figure 5-1
Optional: If you plan to use this with a converter then place the Luxeon so that they the word "Lumileds" point in one direction for PTS. This will reduce the need of extraneous wiring which will decrease efficiency of the circuit.
Place the assemble heat sink into the light head. Install the SO20XA reflectors and the lens. Tighten the lens retaining ring so that the reflectors no longer move around. At this point there should be enough force between the lens and heat sink to press the Luxeon in place.
* Figure 5-2
Let it cure for at least 20 minutes.
Optional: If you're using the bi-pin connector then it's time to prepare the male end. Connect the negative wire of the bi-pin header to the negative end of the Luxeon and v.v. for the positive.
Apply solder to the six solder pads closest to the center hole. Strip and cut two pieces of wires to form connecting bridge between the pads. Hint: Using a needle nose plier to hold the wires while soldering will prevent the wires from rolling.
* Figure 5-3
* Figure 5-4
6. Final Light Assembly (20 minutes)
Install the switch assembly back into the light body. Center the button. With an Allen key tighten the set screw. Reinstall the rubber switch cover.
Optional: If you are using a converter such as BadBoy, Downboy, Fatman or nFlex, it is recommended that you pot the converter against the light body to help cool the converter.
Recommended: Apply a generous amount of thermal grease (Artic Silver) to the outer body thread then screw on the light head without the heat sink or reflectors (Figure 6-1).
* Figure 6-1
Apply generous amount thermal grease to the shoulder of the light head (Figure 6-2).
* Figure 6-2
Connect the bi-pin connector male & female end. Insert the light engine so that it's seated squarely on the shoulder. Rotate the heat sink half a revolution counter clockwise for the wires to fold internally. This will also help spread the thermal grease evenly around the heatsink.
Install the three IMS SO20XA reflectors.
Install the lens and tighten the lens bezel retaining ring.
Hint: To avoid the lens from rotating and getting scratch, use a cloth and your finger press down on the lens.
* Figure 6-3
Note: If for any reason your UCL is not "Ultra Clear", I recommend cleaning it with a little Windex and newspaper. Try to avoid direct hand contact with the UCL because your hand will leave a layer of oil on the glass.
7. "Let There Be Light!"
Congratulation, the light is now finish. It's time to have fun. Just don't look directly into the light.
* Figure 7-1
========================================
============== Side Notes ==================
1. If you want to build a single Luxeon mod follow MrBulk's Space Needle II Build Instruction.
2. If you're planning of Direct Driving this light, please refer to the Direct Drive Reference Sheet for an estimated current output level.
3. PDF version of this is available here.
Hosting courtesy of the Sandwich Shop.
<font color="blue">Please let me know if there is any ambiguity or any recommendation to improve on the build process.</font>