Gladius & U2 Head to Head

cliff

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Feb 12, 2003
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Gents, I had a Gladius over the weekend for examination and stacked it up next to my U2 with some interesting results. There are no "cons" to either light that I could see, but different sets of "pros."

One thing I was wondering about was differences in output. The only light meter I have is an old Weston (circa 1960) which measures 0 - 1600 of something. It is a consistent device, but I have no idea what the increments of measure are.

Anyway, on momentary "on," the Gladius registers a solid "1600," while the U2 bounces the needle up off the scale. On its lowest level, the Gladius doesn't register at all, while the U2 on level 1 registers 400.

In the strobe mode, the Gladius bounces the needle to 400, suggesting that all that flash is no brighter than a U2's lowest level. It sure seems brighter than that, but apparently not. Also, I put a SF FM35 red filter on the Gladius (which just barely fit) to check out the strobe effect and it was pretty dim. There is no way you could shine it through your windshield and pull somebody over - too dim. With the filter off it is another story and I was seeing spots for a long time after a test flash.

Another question I had was their respective performance over an 8-hour period. I put a Pila 168s in the Gladius, a 168a in the U2 and calibrated the Gladius to the same light level as the U2 on level 1. This is a job because the Gladius tailcap is like a dimmer switch and you have to hit it just right.

Both lights ran 8 hours and still had plenty of juice.

Then I calibrated the Gladius to the U2's level 3, which registered 850 on my meter. This is the equivalent to an Arc LS2 and I find that level useful because I can usually see the floor/stairs in smoke filled environments. More light tends to light up the smoke instead.

After 8 hours the U2 was still going strong at all levels including level 6. The Gladius was all but dead and even momentary "on" would only produce mid-range light levels. There was nothing fair about this test since the 168a holds more juice than a 168s, but I always carry a 168a in the U2 and was curious.

That strobe feature on the Gladius is interesting. It would be nice to know what the current draw is in this mode but that is tough to measure since the electronics are in the tailcap. Therefore, you can't measure current draw in the usual way and I haven't figured out a way to do it. IIRC, LEDs use most of their juice while firing up so there could be major current draw in strobe mode.

One thing I will say about the strobe is it is disconcerting to have that shined in your eyes. Whether or not it will incapacitate a guy remains to be seen, but it certainly won't cheer him up.

As far as beams go, the Gladius out-throws the U2 but not by much. The U2 out-floods the Gladius, but again it is not alot. Either light is in the same category but they have slightly different inclinations.

Personally, I think if you are in Fire/Search & Rescue you might be happier with the U2 because of light output v. burn time. However, if you have alot of hostile public contacts or spend considerable time crawling on your belly with a knife in your teeth the Gladius is just the thing. It can be dimmed way down and the strobe is interesting indeed.
 

cliff

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Point blank range. There is a round opening on the back of the meter with knobby glass, about the size of a flashlight bezel. I put the lights right on it and got those readings. Any idea what "1600" means? 1600 of what?
 

cy

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very puzzling review???

what was brightness difference between 168S and 2x CR123 on Gladius?
 

Mark2

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The numbers on the light meter should probably be lux, but I don't think that they are accurate, analogue electronic components change their properties over time, and 40 years is a *very* long time.

Also, don't put the flashlight bezel against the light meter, this will not work well because very close to the bezel, the beam is not even. To see what I mean, point various flashlights at a white wall then move towards the wall until the bezel makes contact. Measure the brightest spot from a fixed distance, for example 1 meter.

As for the strobe, you cannot measure the brightness of the strobe pulses this way. The measuring electronics of digital light meters do not measure constantly, they measure (for example) every second. A light meter with a needle will work even worse. At best, you will get a reading of the average, i.e. the pulses and the dark periods between them.
 

cy

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thanks frenchy, do you know if Gladius will acept 2x R123 li-ion?
 

Atomic_Chicken

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Greetings!

Interesting review, but in terms of battery life it's not all that useful for baseline comparison. If you can get the Gladius again, when doing light duration tests put in a new set of stock 123 batteries of the same manufacturer and same lot so we can have a more accurate idea what the battery life is between the two models. I'm very interested in buying a Gladius, but I'm waiting for more concrete facts and figures from end users before putting out that kind of $$$.

I've seen the U2 locally, and think it is an OK light, it's just not for me... I only want 2 (or 3 at the most) levels of light, instantly selectable with the tailcap switch - one setting for super-bright and one for extreme battery life for tent camping. The Surefire L2 is the closest I've found to this, but the Gladius looks like it will take battery life to a new level... if its real world performance matches the written specs.

Best wishes,
Bawko
 

Kiessling

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IIRC Ken said something about the strobe pulses being even more powerful than the high setting?
bernhard
 

JohnF

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May 10, 2005
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I'm lucky enough to own both an L2 and a Gladius - and I'm not even considered a 'flashaholic'.

The L2 has a much brighter spill (really a flood light), the Gladius has greater throw for sure. Using CR-123A's, I'd have to use a timer to tell any difference in runtime.

I prefer the L2 for camping, the beam is perfect for night walking on low, and high is but a press away if it is required.

The Gladius sits next to the bed, next to the gun, I'd rather have it for a bad situation in my home due to the brighter spot being only a turn-click away from low to walk to the kitchen, and the strobe for a confrontation.

If pressured into having one or the other, I'd have to get rid of them both, as I wouldn't want to be without either.

I've taken beam shots of the Gladius in strobe mode with digicam set at 1/10 sec (so only one flash per exposure is likely), and the exposure looks identical to 1/10 with the light set to momentary full.

John F
 

cy

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there is a plastic sleeve inside Gladius. seems sleeve could have been made thinner to accept 18650.

has anyone removed the sleeve yet?
 

Ken J. Good

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Nov 29, 2001
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The sleeve is an electrical circuit that allows the tailcap to communicate with the system in the front of the light. Remove it and you will damage your Gladius, and render the light inoperable.
 

cliff

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Feb 12, 2003
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Thanks for the testing suggestions. I'm going to try some runtimes again with store-bought batteries this weekend and see how things go.

That meter of mine is so old that there is no place to put batteries, and I don't think the term "electronic" applies to it but I could be wrong. The camera I inherited with it doesn't take batteries either, but both still work like a charm.

Measuring light from a meter or so away should give different results since the Gladius has a much more focused beam.

A 168s is a little tight in the Gladius, but if you take off the label it is a perfect fit. The only problem is the label shelters the little metal strip that provides charge/discharge protection so you have to be a little more careful handing the de-labeled battery.

Also, there is a low-battery blink when using a 168s but I haven't been bothered by this in the slightest. The Gladius also feels lighter, though I haven't weighed them.

BTW - both of these lights are super and if you could only have one of them you would be happy with either.
 

seattlite

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Are there any other 168S type cells that are a little thinner? Any unprotected ones?
 
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