HDS EDC switch question

I just got the EDC and have heard alot of people talk about how they like the feel of the switch. I've never owned an Arc4 so I don't know how it was to compare it by. Mine is fairly stiff to press. It works ok I just thought it would be a little easer to activate. When I'm on primary and want maximum momentarily holding the switch down is uncomfortable. Is that normal? I'm used to Surefire switches and they are alot easer to activate. That's what I'm judging it by.

Its very hard to accidently activate an HDS. The switch is a pretty hard press on mine too but I like it.

OK thanks

I don't consider mine 'hard' to press; put it does take a good push in the center of the switch,and of course you can feel the switch 'click' by tactile feedback.

But I have no problem triple clicking my HDS. IMHO, the switch is as close to perfection as possible.

I have small hands, which may work in my favor: it makes it easy to grip the HDS EDC in the 'cigar grip', and the tip of my thumb can easily press the switch.

But by it's design, as mentioned previously, the swicth would be somewhat difficult to accidently activate.

TRC "is as right as two rabbits." By my thinking, the switch is so accurate because it has to be. Think of the method used to accomplish ANY TASK on the HDS EDC series lights. The switch does it all!

I wonder if Henry would tell us what is the approximate number of pushes that the switch has been tested to complete in it's lifetime? The switch manufacturer must have that spec. Is it one million pushes.....ten million pushes? I am approaching something in that range, with all of my tinkering and configuring. Just curious!

yes i must concur, the HDS EDC switch is sweet.

thats a good question luxlover, i'm also curious what is the expected lifetime of the switch.

I too find it hard to press with just my thumb in the traditional down click position. I find it easier to press the button with my index finger.

I'm still trying to decide if being able to stand it on end is worth the flat switch. I have no problem with the actual mechanics of it (precise as can be), but with my flat thumbs, I'd prefer a more raised switch for quicker activation.

I don't suppose the switch can be modded? (Pardon if it's a dumb question...I'm just learning /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/huh.gif).

Has anyone else noticed that when the light is new, the rubber on the switch is slightly indented and the light sits well on a table, but after a bit of use the rubber becomes slightly domed and the light no longer sits as steadily on the tail? I have a GT & an XR and both have done this.

Yeah, I actually wish it was slightly flatter, even though I have a hard time keeping momentary high on using my thumb now...

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Crossword said:
Has anyone else noticed that when the light is new, the rubber on the switch is slightly indented and the light sits well on a table, but after a bit of use the rubber becomes slightly domed and the light no longer sits as steadily on the tail? I have a GT & an XR and both have done this.

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you know, i never noticed it till i read this. the switch on mine is domed now. and i had mine for over a month now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

maybe its just me but i'm having alittle problem with my switch. sometimes when i do double clicks or triple clicks to select my brightness i cant always get it to do what i want it to do. a third of the problem is me i guess. 2/3 is like my timing is off or something. double clicking for secondary brightness my light goes off on. then sometimes for triple clicking it'll go off on off. the other is i also find that the button sticks or something so when i do a triple click it will act like a double.

for me, i prefer the button on the ARC4. i cant remember Ever having a problem with it (knock on wood), and i'm the second owner for this light. yes the button is stiff but i kinda like. when i single, double or triple click it does want i want. and you dont have to press as hard or as far in. where as the HDS there must be that click feel to it in order for it to work and it has a much deeper press.

(sorta going off topic alittle here) if i can make the best EDC light for myself, i'd have the HDS body with the ARC4 button and clip, with the reflector and the OS of the lion-heart.

I have had my U60 for about 7 weeks now and use it a lot.

Lots of tripple presses (I like low intensity /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif)...no problem at all yet and rubber still flat.
[knock on wood grain formica] /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I like the feel of the switch very much...

Timing is everything on these multi-press lights. I get wrong here and there. The timing on the EDC and LionCub is quite different to. Try playing with both and you will have fun getting it right. Either one does not have switch problems which some folks may perceive this as. Kinda like morse code. ..- gets high on EDC. . then - on cub. I think I like my EDC basic better because it always works the same. To complicated on cub but i have that where I want it in mode1. Lotsa fun learning.

If the switch action on mine is normal and doesn't "break in" and become easier to push, then I'll be returning it. Anyone with arthritis or hand problems may find the switch impossible to press - if it's like the one on mine.

Along with a good beam, I treasure good switch action. I suspect a problem with my EDC because the switch is a bear to actuate. If the switch on mine is normal it will make the 10 clicks for menu operations rather difficult.

Otherwise, I received prompt shipping from The Battery Station and like the light in most every way. I'm hoping for an easy fix for a rare bug.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

After reading some of the posts, I just had to see if my switch was abnormal - and it WAS. I reversed the snap dome and spring. Now the rubber switch cover doesn't dome outward, making a tail stand difficult. The action is smooth and far easier to press.

WHOOPIE! I'll be keeping the U60.

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jayflash said:
After reading some of the posts, I just had to see if my switch was abnormal - and it WAS. I reversed the snap dome and spring. Now the rubber switch cover doesn't dome outward, making a tail stand difficult. The action is smooth and far easier to press.

WHOOPIE! I'll be keeping the U60.

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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/clap.gif Very nice...can you explain the process for those of us who are technically challenged? Exactly how much "dome" did you have going pre-switch?

When I received the light its switch was protruding aprox 1 - 2 mm in the center, making it wobbly when stood on end. It was quite difficult to get the light to operate consistently, yet, it did work so I didn't know for sure if something was amiss.

On a clean surface, hold the light head up and unscrew the tail cap, then carefully lift the switch out by the two contact wires. The wide end of the spring should be up and evenly under the four center contacts with the narrow end of the spring contacting the center of the top "PCB" disc. Under the bottom "circuit board" disc is the snap dome which should be sitting in the center depression of the rubber switch cover. The snap dome should protrude outward toward the rubber "push" button. If the metal snap dome is not seated in the rubber switch cover's "well", it may not operate properly.

A properly operating switch will audibly click, which will be felt. My switch now has the right balance of elasticity.

When opening up my U60 to swap the battery, the switch end started to unthread. I was unaware that I could do this. Anyway, after reassembly my switch/button was slightly domed. I thought "Great, what have I done now?". After living with that condition for a few days (more difficult actuation & wobbly tail stand), I took it apart again; this time purposefully. Upon reassembly I pushed the rubber button ever so slightly as I threaded it closed. To my surprise the button not only became flat again, it was actually concave! I'm pretty sure that it was simply excess air trapped inside. I have since perfected this little technique and am quite satisfied with the results.

So the MIDDLE of the HDS is supposed to be unscrewed to replace the cell? Mine won't and the O-ring or whatever seal is in there must have gotten cut because rubber is sticking out of the midline seam.

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jayflash said:
So the MIDDLE of the HDS is supposed to be unscrewed to replace the cell? Mine won't and the O-ring or whatever seal is in there must have gotten cut because rubber is sticking out of the midline seam.

[/ QUOTE ]Yes jayflash, the Led half of the HDS unscrews exposing the positive end of the battery as well as the very end of the contacts.

Thanks timmyg.