1W 3AAA Dorcy - 3W Li-Ion 18650 DD. (high-Band)

Ok this is going to take some TIME, but it looks like a suitable containment.
enough battery space for a 18650, nice hearty container, spaces for any type of switching , possible space for a charge connect on the tailcap. a nice chrome & raw aluminum color, side switch location.

So because it is still 100% normal, i will post the breakdown and analisis pics , now, then take pics while i am altering it into oblivion.

ANY suggestions along the way will be totally appretiated, although i already have a basic plan in mind.
And if you already did this, then POINT ME, because i didnt see this done yet. and have wanted this bad.

captions are underneath the pictures.
picture is worth 100 words, so you can SEE everything here, if you cannot just ask.



the original light assembled.



simple size comparison, because it is so hard to tell sizes with pictures.



the original reflector, it is quite deep.



the head off, and specifically showing the method of connection they use for the 3AAA adapter to the switch curcuit.
you can see that BOTH connection are on the top of this adapter, and both are connected to the head, there doesnt seem to be any connection to the body Yet.



the breakdown of the parts, it was NOT friggen glued together and this all comes apart EASILY by just unscrewing.



the battery tube SIZE vrses the HEAD size, you can see there is much space used or wasted via the head on this thing, vrses having used the space for capacity of battery.



the battery candidate a 18650 (li-ion 3.6v), and its size comparison to the battery tube.



and just HOW does the battery fit /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif well you tell me, this is with the spring in uncompressed.



tailcap with spring



tailcap with spring removed. its pretty solid down there :-(



ok the pring is gone, BUT the battery will not YET fit down the tailcap, the hole is to small.
the FIRST ledge is to small not to mention the next ledge which is much more metal.



and THIS is exactally how far it sticks out without the spring, refer back to the head tube size comparison pics, to see that the adapter DID stick out a bit, just not this far. close but not quite.



this is the ammount of seperation with the curcuit still in, and the spring out

SO, what to do first
I could first make the li-ion battery fit, by drilling out the tail cap till it sits down inside the tailcap far enough and run it 1W with the curcuit.

but the connections (remember the connections?) to the curcuit stuff would be a lot of trouble. and it is probably going by by.

the star does not look well sinked to the head yet, so i should probably dissasemble that portion of it and show you what exists behind there.
especially seeings that you didnt see much of the star or optics in the breakdown pictures.

also there might be a need for a heat sink pill of some type, slowing down the process even further.

anybody have ideas on a switch when i remove the one there yet?

Re: 1W 3AAA Dorcy - 3W Li-Ion 18650 DD. (high-Ban

I took some pictures of my 3w 3AAA Dorcy mod and posted them in this thread.

Looks like some of the picture don't show up anymore, so here they are again...

Re: 1W 3AAA Dorcy - 3W Li-Ion 18650 DD. (high-Ban

How colourful is your keyboard?
nice work

Re: 1W 3AAA Dorcy - 3W Li-Ion 18650 DD. (high-Ban

AHH thanks Rossitron , so you actually used the curcuit they had in there, but replaced the smaller transister. with what transister did you replace it with?

Re: 1W 3AAA Dorcy - 3W Li-Ion 18650 DD. (high-Ban

[ QUOTE ]
Thunder said:
How colourful is your keyboard?
nice work

[/ QUOTE ]

its a custom keyboard, its a 1970s type of clickey keyboard, obnoxiously loud.
i hate the membrain keyboards, and if i was going to pay 80$ for a blasted keyboard , it was going to be "FUNCTION" color coded.
they started to make membrain keyboards weak on the two ends, so the pressure for the pinkey was lower , like 10 grams or something. because i do not touch type , i am all over the keyboard with my 2 fingers /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif and the pinkey keys always went off to easily, making my spelling worse than it was before.
so i had to get a MOD /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif its complicated, but its the last keyboard i will ever have, after having 4-5 of the lesser ones.
http://www.boomspeed.com/nitram/Psycokeyboard.jpg
(original design)

its like a kids colored keybord, but with Functional coloration. each key is a real switch.
and it can suvive pouring a whole soda in it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Re: 1W 3AAA Dorcy - 3W Li-Ion 18650 DD. (high-Ban



La head.



split ring hunk of plastic keeps the star from twisintg or leaving the top, brainiac me , thinks that i can get the star out from this end , not gonna happen



view of the last split ring comming out



hmm how is this button on there, TEArrrrr. oh gee that was easy, the button is just press fit in there, no glue again, its a wonder that it doesnt just fall out by itself.

there are the 2 split rings in the background, one is upside down, the other right side up so you can see thier dimentional form.



oh duhh, that is how you get the thing out, after the button is gone for the switch, the switch module and star comes right out, the battery direction, not the front.



ahh the worthless heat sinking of the star, looks like sombody completly forgot about some way to transfer the heat to the body, lots parts, good idea, but in my opinion very poor heat design.



the star wiring, to the bottom ring, which connects to the below circuit ring thing



the switch side of the curcuit that was inside that round switch module .



the component side of the switch curcuit. for info sake this curcuit, had 3 postions OFF ON and STROBE



holy cow, way to many parts, i will NEVER get this back together correctally, i will have to do this with less parts all the way around, cause i will never get it back together, and heck anybody see the heat sink?

what a mess, what did i get myself into.
ok now i need a heat sink thing, a 3W star, and i will work from there.

Re: 1W 3AAA Dorcy - 3W Li-Ion 18650 DD. (high-Ban

Some measurements just for you, whoever actually measures anything . . . not me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Head inside diamater (where curcuit sink and star would go) - 21.5mm.
Battery tube diameter - 22.0mm

from the small base of the reflector to:
the first of the switch hole - 18.7mmm
about where the switch module ended and th start of the threads - 28.8mm
the end of the head itself - 38.1mm

without Drilling the tailcap, the 18650 now comes to 3mm above the first of the switch hole.

top ledge of tailcap to bottom of reflector - (about) 97mm.
(total space for everything before drilling)

ok so that basically means to leave enough space for some kind of switch to easily be in there, the tail cap pretty much is going to have to be drilled so the battery sinks down further.

Re: 1W 3AAA Dorcy - 3W Li-Ion 18650 DD. (high-Ban

Hi, Thanks for the PM,

What's the Height of Heat Sink.... may be QIII Heat Sinks Directly fit in to it...

QIII's Heat Sink have a height of about 7 mm....

it will be loose by 0.5 mm ... though... as QIII's Heat Sink has dia of 21 mm

Re: 1W 3AAA Dorcy - 3W Li-Ion 18650 DD. (high-Ban

Viren has a 21MM x 7mm copper star sink for the nuwai QIII thing , and it is about as close as i am going to get to something done. (that is what were talking about)

well it will have to do then, my measurements are not that accurate anyways.
the height is not terribly important, because i dont know what i am doing yet. i suppose it could be as high as 11mm. the 7mm should work ok.

i will metal epoxy the sink in, so the conduction is as best as i can get. the higher the WALLS of the sink the better a poor transfer (to the body) will be.

there are metal Ridges on the inside of the head, the 2 TRACKS to hold the plastic in line you can see in the pics, the ridges alone will be reducing the conduction to any sink that is there. the metal epoxy should cover the .25mm gap all the way around, and fill in the ridges.

Re: 1W 3AAA Dorcy - 3W Li-Ion 18650 DD. (high-Ban

[ QUOTE ]
VidPro said:
AHH thanks Rossitron , so you actually used the curcuit they had in there, but replaced the smaller transister. with what transister did you replace it with?

[/ QUOTE ]

It's an A1357. Because of its size, it will require some bending and tweaking of the legs to make the connections, but it does fit inside of the shell. You'll be better off buying something with the same footprint/pinout as the original part. I just had this one kicking around. You should even be able to use a P-channel MOSFET if you like.

Re: 1W 3AAA Dorcy - 3W Li-Ion 18650 DD. (high-Ban

like way cool, i HAVE a P-channel mosfet right here in my greedy little palms. only one problem, i wouldnt know how to connect it TO that thing at all.

i thought about using the mosfet to have a momentary turn on that ALWAYS auto offed, kinda like a complex pic controller would do with no controller nessisary.
have it charge a cap the longer you pressed the momentary, so a Very fast quick press would slowly fade out as soon as you pressed it. and a slighty longer press, would hold it on for 5 minutes or so.
or shoving a BBflex in there .
THEN
i realized , the application of these will be such that i would want a FULL 100% no ifs ands or micro amps disconnection. so the batteries will last forever (so to speak). and i want little to nothing wasted anywhere that isnt going to the light.
SO
i ordered a 3 positions switch from silveron, i think it might just perfectally fit there. i can do a ON DD overdrive, and a ON low.
totally stupidly simple, about my speed.

i hope that works. only one way to find out