How to tell 1 from 3 watt emitter??
- Thread starter big_guy
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270winchester
Flashlight Enthusiast
Drive them with a single cell of 123.
THe Lux1, more often than not, have lower Vf than LuxIII's, so they are more likely to be vbery bright to the naked eye when DD's with a 123, where as most LuxIII's will have Vf of J or above, or 3.27 volts or above, so a single 123 would be a little dimm. If you have a partially drained 123 the difference will be mroe pronounced. THat's my experience so far anyway...
THe Lux1, more often than not, have lower Vf than LuxIII's, so they are more likely to be vbery bright to the naked eye when DD's with a 123, where as most LuxIII's will have Vf of J or above, or 3.27 volts or above, so a single 123 would be a little dimm. If you have a partially drained 123 the difference will be mroe pronounced. THat's my experience so far anyway...
eebowler
Flashlight Enthusiast
big_guy: as nemul says in this thread , the Lux III emitters have wider tabs than the Lux I emitters. The pictures proves that he is right.
TORCH_BOY
Flashlight Enthusiast
I found by under powering the Led
the Lux-111 usually appears greener
than the 1 Watt under the same condition
the Lux-111 usually appears greener
than the 1 Watt under the same condition
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eebowler said:
big_guy: as nemul says in this thread , the Lux III emitters have wider tabs than the Lux I emitters. The pictures proves that he is right.
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that's only true for Lux III emitters that have been removed from a star board. Bare Lux III emitters are completely indistinguishable from a bare Lux I emitter.
eebowler said:
big_guy: as nemul says in this thread , the Lux III emitters have wider tabs than the Lux I emitters. The pictures proves that he is right.
[/ QUOTE ]
that's only true for Lux III emitters that have been removed from a star board. Bare Lux III emitters are completely indistinguishable from a bare Lux I emitter.
[ QUOTE ]
270winchester said:
Drive them with a single cell of 123.
THe Lux1, more often than not, have lower Vf than LuxIII's, so they are more likely to be vbery bright to the naked eye when DD's with a 123, where as most LuxIII's will have Vf of J or above, or 3.27 volts or above, so a single 123 would be a little dimm. If you have a partially drained 123 the difference will be mroe pronounced. THat's my experience so far anyway...
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I seriously doubt you'd be able to accurately distinguish them with that method. Remember that a Lux I Vf is binned at 350mA, whereas a Lux III Vf is binned at 700mA, so of course the Lux III Vf bin will be higher, but when run at the same current, their Vfs will be in the same range.
I have several Luxeon IIIs that, given the same current, would yield a lower Vf than other Lux I I have. Running directly off 2 AA or 1x123 cell, I can not distinguish the two with any certianty.
270winchester said:
Drive them with a single cell of 123.
THe Lux1, more often than not, have lower Vf than LuxIII's, so they are more likely to be vbery bright to the naked eye when DD's with a 123, where as most LuxIII's will have Vf of J or above, or 3.27 volts or above, so a single 123 would be a little dimm. If you have a partially drained 123 the difference will be mroe pronounced. THat's my experience so far anyway...
[/ QUOTE ]
I seriously doubt you'd be able to accurately distinguish them with that method. Remember that a Lux I Vf is binned at 350mA, whereas a Lux III Vf is binned at 700mA, so of course the Lux III Vf bin will be higher, but when run at the same current, their Vfs will be in the same range.
I have several Luxeon IIIs that, given the same current, would yield a lower Vf than other Lux I I have. Running directly off 2 AA or 1x123 cell, I can not distinguish the two with any certianty.
Well, we will soon see what the little fella is! I just cut down an old Mercury Dime (Yes, I checked the date first)! and used Arctic Silver to bond them together. Tomorrow, if things go according to plan, I will A.S the new LE directly into the lip of a cheapie 3 X AA light with tail switch. Because the LE will be bonded directly to the Aluminum battery tube of the light, I hope it will be enough extra heat sink to keep from frying the LED
Three AA alkalines and no resistors! I know from the test it's gonna be bright! It just might become my new go to light for those "something went bump in the night" missions!
Arlen
Three AA alkalines and no resistors! I know from the test it's gonna be bright! It just might become my new go to light for those "something went bump in the night" missions!Arlen
eebowler
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks for the info evan. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
