Best replacement bin for Nuwai QIII

There have been a lot of past threads on modding Q3's with rechargables and upgraded luxeons for ultimate brightness, but what would be the best bins for a standard CR123? Looking for more runtime, less heat, and at least the same or better brightness. I know these may be mutally exclusive!

I am still trying to learn all the aspects of bin codes and Vf! A lower Vf means more efficient right? Which means all things being equal (in the same Q3 for example) a TW0H would have about the same brightness as a TW0J but with a little more runtime? Please correct me if I am wrong on this!

I have a Q3 and am also interested in figuring this out also. Though I run mine off rechargeables. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Actually, you will get more brightness than anything else with TWOH.
I sold some TYOH modded Q3's that were like that.
They were the brightest of all the T*** bin modded Q3's I have ever seen.

As for rechargeable 123's;
A direct drive setup works quite well with a ***L star of some kind.
Just gut the cheezy circuit board removing everything.
reassemble the light and use a t5 led and a regular 123 to find the dd traces on the board.
The t5 led's die bowl is it's negative side btw.
When you find those, disassemble the light again, put in a couple little wires on the board traces noting polarity, solder in the ***L star, reassemble light.
Enjoy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

You should read anywhere from 700-100 milliamps to the led.
So definitely use thermal paste in there, but it should be ok.

But would the TWOH also have more runtime and less heat than the TWOJ in my example? I assume that "more efficient" means less waste heat and/or more lumens?

It's the cheap boost circuit that comes with the Q3's that has a lot to do with the light gained with no real improvement in runtime.
It seems to draw 800 milliamps from a cr123 battery no matter what bin is in there.
Lower voltaged bin is just brighter.
Although going from a TWOJ to a TWOH shouldn't make much difference that can be seen by anything other than a calibrated light measurement instrument.

I replace another circuit to make good runtime and good brightness. result better than try to find new good bin. But if you get L bin from stock you should replace with lower Vf bin.

I just tested my Q3 with TW0J tonight.

[ QUOTE ]
3rd_shift said:
Actually, you will get more brightness than anything else with TWOH.
I sold some TYOH modded Q3's that were like that.
They were the brightest of all the T*** bin modded Q3's I have ever seen.

As for rechargeable 123's;
A direct drive setup works quite well with a ***L star of some kind.
Just gut the cheezy circuit board removing everything.
reassemble the light and use a t5 led and a regular 123 to find the dd traces on the board.
The t5 led's die bowl is it's negative side btw.
When you find those, disassemble the light again, put in a couple little wires on the board traces noting polarity, solder in the ***L star, reassemble light.
Enjoy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

You should read anywhere from 700-100 milliamps to the led.
So definitely use thermal paste in there, but it should be ok.

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What about a bin for a Q3 with the stock circuit?

Also, what is the typical increase in brightness in going from a standard Q3 SW1K (is that right?) to a TYOJ (or any other T)?

This thread has come at the right time.

My QIII died over the weekend. No not from dead batteries, just died. One minute in my hand working next, nothing, no dimming, no flicker just off. Several taps on the palm of hand nothing, swamp out battery for fresh spare, nothing. The thing is dead.

So what to do with this jazzy Cr123 holder?

Will follow this thread with interest.

Options are mod it or sling in the bin, well for now anyway.

[ QUOTE ]
What about a bin for a Q3 with the stock circuit?

Also, what is the typical increase in brightness in going from a standard Q3 SW1K (is that right?) to a TYOJ (or any other T)?

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For a QIII with stock circuit and using primary CR123A batteries look for the lower Vf you can find (usually H)as will give you the higher efficiency.

For a QIII that will use Li-on rechargeables lower Vf means higher current that implies more light, but also implies more heat and if too much, then less light. Where is the sweet spot? IMHO K-L for stock QIII, J-K if you get a better heatsink like the ones ViReN sells. H will get too much current, will heat insanely and in the end you will get less light and less runtime.

In both cases, try to get the brighter luxeon possible (U-bin or T-bin) and the tint you prefer (I prefer white X0)

As for the increase in brightness from S-bin to T-bin it can go from 0% (better case S-bin with worse case T-bin) to 45% (the opposite case), but the typical is 20% (by the way, a difference barely noticeable by your senses).

Edited to correct brightness increase percentages

I use a TWOJ with r123 and the stock circuit- it gets hot but not so much I'm afraid the tar is cooking.

I would think a TXXH is probably asking for trouble if you are using R123's particularly if you DD.

As far as color, I like WO and X1, though it's personal preference. X1 is a little warmer. If you're going to the trouble of putting a new star it I'd go for a T bin or if you really want to go for the gusto, a UxxJ - hard as hens teeth to find, for sure.

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For a QIII with stock circuit and using primary CR123A batteries look for the lower Vf you can find (usually H)as will give you the higher efficiency.

For a QIII that will use Li-on rechargeables lower Vf means higher current that implies more light, but also implies more heat and if too much, then less light. Where is the sweet spot? IMHO K-L for stock QIII, J-K if you get a better heatsink like the ones ViReN sells. H will get too much current, will heat insanely and in the end you will get less light and less runtime.

In both cases, try to get the brighter luxeon possible (U-bin or T-bin) and the tint you prefer (I prefer white X0)

As for the increase in brightnes from S-bin to T-bin it can go from 0% (better case S-bin with worse case T-bin) to 70% (the opposite case), but the typical is 30% (by the way, a difference barely noticeable by your senses).

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So as in my original question, what would replacing my stock SW1K with a TW0H (running normal CR123's) do to runtime/brightness/heat?

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[ QUOTE ]
So as in my original question, what would replacing my stock SW1K with a TW0H (running normal CR123's) do to runtime/brightness/heat?

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TWOH will be way too much even with Heat Sink(unless you want to drive it wsing Normal CR123)

Since you intend to drive TWOH using a Normal CR123, I think It will do good, but should still heat sink (in case if you want to Increase the Life of LED, by better heat management)

Also the SW1K if Direct Driven by Rechargable Li-Ion CR123 Cell you should get Much Brighter (and almost comparable or even slightly better than) to TWOH with Standard CR123 Cell.

With Respect to Runtimes, TWOH with Std CR123 should run for 2 - 2.5 Hours on Higher Output levels and almost Indefinately on a Lower Level (as the battery gets used)

SW1K should do 50 - 60 Minutes on Higher Output & Almost 4 - 5 Hours on Less Output (before Protection Circuit Kicks in) .... if using Protected Li-Ion Rechargable CR123 Cells.

[ QUOTE ]
Donovan said:
So as in my original question, what would replacing my stock SW1K with a TW0H (running normal CR123's) do to runtime/brightness/heat?

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Going from S* to T* regulated would mean 0%-45% increase in brightness (typical 20%).
Going from *K to *H regulated would mean 8%-25% increase in runtime (typical 16%) and an equivalent reduction in heat.