flashlight reliability ratings

I am going to rate the reliability of my lights... feel free to add to the list.

all ratings are out of 5.

*Pelican (m6 led)....4.5

*vital gear (fb1-new)....1

*longbow (micra)....3


and now to explain: my Pelican m6 led has never malfuncioned once, and it was my first light... it can take a lickin. It lost half a star because the plastic lens scratches too easily.

My Vital gear Fb1 doesnt drive the kl1 head to its fullest, my brothers E1E body makes alot more light, and I dont like losing light... I've already had it replaced, and they both had the same problem, if you hold down the clicky it'll be bright, but when you let go, it gets dim. I'm beginning to think that all of the fb1 bodies have that problem.

My longbow micra was funcioning well for the first 6 months, and then I noticed the clicky was picking up resistance (not making the most possible light), so I tried to fix it, and now it doesnt work at all (momentary works, but the click funcion doesnt, my brother had the same problem with his Z57, except Surefire is replacing his, and Longbow has very pore customer service, I'll give em a call anyway though... Any help on that issue would be appreciated.

-David /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

I've only used a few lights enough to form any opinion of their reliability.

Dorcies 1AAA and 1AA's are all 100% through lots of use (maybe 10 battery changes through busiest 1AAA, 5 through busiest 1AA).

Costco 2xAA 1W Luxeons are 100% through fair amount of use (50-60 hours total).

Elektrolumens XM-3 is 100% through fair amount of use (20 hours?). Blaster Jr. is 100% through light use.

All twisty switched Arc LS, Infinities, Gerber LX1.0 are 100% through light use - although my daughter took her Infinities to Costa Rica and used it a lot for a month with no problems.

Lightwave Infiniton C1 is 100% through light use.

I got Krolls for my Arc Ls. 2 out of 2 failed. I stopped using Krolls.

One of 5 CMG/Gerber Sonics went dead, and Gerber promptly replaced it.

My Inova X1 and several Xnova 1xAA lights needed cleaning or the twisty would flicker. Some early really cheap Chinese multi-led lights had iffy switches, although I think the current ones are better.

In general, most lights are very reliable for the levels of use I give them, and I intuitively feel that good twisties (Arc, old Infinities, Gerber LX's) are probably the most reliable switches out there - but that's only an opinion.

Reliability is a complicated thing. Obviously you want a light that will withstand some abuse and always light up. There are other issues that might go into the pile of reliability considerations:

How does it die? Will you be left in the dark with a sudden loss os photons, or will you have some warning to change batts or return from where you are?

Is it secure in carry? Is it prone to coming unclipped and lost? If you drop it, can you find it? Is there a provision for a lanyard? Do you reliably carry the light, i.e., is it EDC-able? Can you carry your light and wear a tie at the same time (and still be taken seriously)?

How about consumables? Does it contain a spare lamp, if needed? Can you find batteries under adverse conditions, like wide-scale power outages? Better yet, can you run entirely off grid, say, with a solar charger?

Is it suitable for all of the environments you find yourself in? Industrial workplace. Extreme heat or cold. Soaking wet conditions for days. Dusty, gritty environments. Explosive atmospheres, e.g., gas/fuel leaks, smoky building fires.

Accidental discharges? Is the light a fire hazard loose in a duffel bag?

Scott

What I meant by reliability is the length that a light will remain fully funcional, and how long it will stay in brand new condition.

-David

Palight 5
I have had one for some time now and it has never failed

Palight 5
I have had one for some time now and it has never failed

I'm not going to rate (A is best, F is worst) every single light I have, but rather the manufactures I have in general terms. I'm only considering reliability (i.e. if they work as expected when you turn them on).

Surefire: A+ (except for 2 minor issues that don't affect reliability, absolutely ZERO troubles)

Maglite: A (despite many things I don't like about Mags, they always work when I need them, except for the bulbs)

Elektrolumens: C to F depending on model. The most reliability problems of all my light makers. Its hit and miss my experience says. Most problems develop either immediately, within a couple hours use, or not at all.

Streamlight: B to F depending on model. Second highest reliability problems of all my light makers. Hit and miss especially on the Lux Jr. model. Some I've had are okay, others developed problems almost immediately.

HDS: B (one major failure, sent back to the factory and fixed, but is now reoccuring)

Arc: A-

UK: A (zero failures so far, which my opinion says is very impression for such inexpensive products)

Pelican: A

LED Xtreme: C

Longbow: C to B

based on my heavy and fairly rough use i'd say:

Arc AAA Premium (original) still going strong after about 3 yrs. on my keychain

Elektrolumens XM-3 i've dropped it on cement and down stairs numerous times and still works great

Eternalight X-Ray after 4 years its still perfect

Streamlight poly series they just don't quit

i use most of these guys every day and don't baby them so they've got my vote of confidence

I would give maglight a c- because the bulbs burn out WAY too frequesntly.

Surefire...I'd give an A because of the leakages with L4s, and my brother Z57 clicky broke. Other than that, they are great.

-David

[ QUOTE ]
cheapo said:
I would give maglight a c- because the bulbs burn out WAY too frequesntly.

Surefire...I'd give an A because of the leakages with L4s, and my brother Z57 clicky broke. Other than that, they are great.

-David

[/ QUOTE ]


I use LED replacement bulbs in Mags now, so the bulb breakage issue is less of the concern my opinion says. You made a great point of course though.

I broke both of the bulbs on mine within a couple of months. But it is cool that they come with replacements.

-David

Oh yeah.. if anybody could help me with my longbow situation, that would be great.

-David

[ QUOTE ]
cheapo said:
My longbow micra was funcioning well for the first 6 months, and then I noticed the clicky was picking up resistance (not making the most possible light), so I tried to fix it, and now it doesnt work at all (momentary works, but the click funcion doesnt, my brother had the same problem with his Z57, except Surefire is replacing his, and Longbow has very pore customer service, I'll give em a call anyway though... Any help on that issue would be appreciated.

-David /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

So far what did the people at Longbow say?

My 1W module for my Micra malfunctioned once. I looked them up in their office(light10) and they replaced it without question.

Just curious..What is the problem with your HDS????

Old Style KL3- 5
Arc LSL
Arc LSH - 4 maybe a 3.5
Arc LSHF


The KL3 took a 6 foot drop onto concrete and shrugged it off, couple of drops from waist high onto sidewalks also shrugged off. It has a few knicks and dents in the bezel but works just fine. No lens fractures either.

The only issue I've had with my Arc LSs is the damnable Kroll switch. Seems every couple weeks it would need sprayed with contact cleaner to get it to stop flickering. If it weren't for the Kroll I'd give them a 5.

I E-mailed them today and they said they'de replace it, but the last time they said that they'de replace my lanyard, but they never did.

-David

[ QUOTE ]
Kalinux said:
Just curious..What is the problem with your HDS????

[/ QUOTE ]

Its due to part of the inside anodize being not applied in the manufacturing process, causing bad electrical contacts. The solution from the factory was to put scotch tape over the non-anodized line/strip, and it worked for a while. I think I'll try doing what the factory originally did the first time, putting more tape there.

Their customer service is fantastic BTW, I just don't feel like shipping to them a second time if its something I may be able to fix based on the instructions from the last time I sent it to them to get fixed.

[ QUOTE ]
cheapo said:
I E-mailed them today and they said they'de replace it, but the last time they said that they'de replace my lanyard, but they never did.

-David

[/ QUOTE ]

Hmm...The previous time did they ignore your email or something? Do let us know the outcome this time perhaps I`ll see what I can to help.

Pelican L1 2.5 battery connection failure

Streamlight Batonlite 2.0 board failure

Arc AAA (three of them) 4.5 on/off problem with one

Arc AA (two of them) 5.0 no problems

Peak AAA 5.0 no problems

Peak AA (three of them) 5.0 no problems

Inova X5 (two of them) 4.5 no problems although I don't use them (car lights). Common lights in Iraq so the larger pool of them have had rare LED failures and one that would flicker.

Streamlight Luxeon Jr. 3.0 plastic cap on top of batteries cracked, switch utterly failed

Out of 6 Streamlight Luxeon Jrs. in use in TX, one of them died after three months of heavy use in Iraq. The others are OK but tailswitch problems are starting to creep up after a year.

None of my Peaks have had problems as have three red LED versions of their AA lights. They always work...

Out of three Arc AAA's I have owned, only one had the failure to turn on problem. The other two always worked although I only have the red LED version left. They make great gifts.

My greatest failure rate with manufacturers is Streamlight (Batonlite and Jr.) The most reliable is my four Peak lights...Arc is a close second. Inova X5 is so rarely used but know of occasional problems...I rate them 3rd.

lets see
surefire a
Longbow a
streamlight c
maglite a

ok - my longbow micra gets and a - no problems
surefire are great apart from a melted lens on me 6p
maglite are good till you melt the switch with a soldering iron - easy to get replacements though
and streamlight - i have had problems with both my stinger xt and my batonlite

and nearly everyone i know has had battery issues after 6 months