R/O Screamer help

Phaserburn

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 30, 2003
Messages
4,755
Location
Connecticut, USA
Ok, here's my plan. I want to build a red/orange lux III screamer and get at those rated 190 lumens of eye-frying power. Now, here's what I think I think - I need good heatsinking to accomodate the 1.4A current required for this output. My host of choice is the Emilion Smartfire 3AAA direct drive clone light. Swapping the clone for the R/O lux III, I think the heatsinking would be adequate. For power, I'd be using 3 AAA nimh cells, which should, in theory, be able to supply this kind of current which should be a bit under 2C. I could use a li-ion 18500 cell as a swap out for the 3AAAs. So the questions are:

Which battery source would be better? I realize that the 18500 would provide much more capacity than the 3AAAs (1500ma vs 900-1000ma), but would I be overdriving the luxeon to dangerous levels? The R/O bin is G2HH. What voltage is required to push the correct current through this baby? I know that the H vf is 3.03-3.27V, but that's at 750ma, isn't it? I think the li-ion would hold a higher voltage than the 3AAAs for longer, but it would be relatively close, I believe. And the li-ion would have no problem supplying whatever current the luxeon would be willing to draw.

Opinions?
 

IsaacHayes

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 30, 2003
Messages
5,876
Location
Missouri
Let me save you some trouble. I did a simalar 3xaaa light with NiMH. My cells were lacrosse, 750mah or so. The voltage sagged on them, so I had to go to a lower Vf luxeon. I used a G2G. H Vf didnt work too good. Now it pulls just 1 amp on HOTC cells.

Other brands might be able to deliver more current. I belvie there was a shoot out or post recently talking about one brand of AAA nimh that beat out current deliver of some AA's!

With what you already have, go with the Li-ion. Test it first and see if it over drives it, becarefull though as close to 2amps the bond wires fuse open! You will probably need a resistor, but maybe not...

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/caution.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/caution.gif Also, remember that both the slug and the star's metal are connected to postive lead. If you don't isolate this from the HS/body of the light which is tied to negative, you will ruin your luxeon, as the positive bond wire will dead short and melt open!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/caution.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/caution.gif

Hope this helps! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif
 

IsaacHayes

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 30, 2003
Messages
5,876
Location
Missouri
If you have NiMH go a head and try them first, your's may be able to supply the current. If not, then just go with your Li-ion. oh and to isoltate the emitter/star use AA epoxy and test the resisttance after it sets up to be sure.
 
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