LED electronics prevent light turning on

LED Gladius doesn't turn on

Can the electronics of LED regulated light stops turning on if it detects a protected battery with higher voltage? These lights inclued Gladius, L4,L6, U2 etc...
When I put my CR123 3.2 V from Js Burley into the light, the light doesn't turn on. however,it still doesn't turn on with regular lithium. I clean the light with rubbbing alcohol. It still doesn't work.

What's is going on? Is the electronics preventing the light turning on??

I need help ????

Can you be a bit more specific? What lights have you tried this battery in? And following that, you tried a regular CR123 lithium cell, such as a surefire or battery station cell?

If the lights worked before, and now they are not working with a regular cell, my guess is that the lights have been damaged. Some regulated lights can only withstand the 3V x # of cells they were designed for, if you're putting more voltage in them, then you're risking that the light may be damaged.

There shouldn't be any memory from one battery to the next, so just because it doesn't turn on with the 3.2V cell, and still won't turn on with the regular cell, probably doesn't mean that the light is protecting itself. How would it remember when you take the batteries out, unless some very complicated design, but then again, if you're replacing the cells, why would it care what cell was used in it last?

I hope your lights aren't damaged, but maybe with some more information, we can try and help you out.

I have a couple of R123's from battery station, they are protected and they dont like being used in really high drain lights like that at all. I can run a QIII no problem, but if I put both of them into a 5 watt or any of my other higher drain lights, the protection on the battery kicks in immediately and I just get a flash from the light and then nothing. To reset the protection you have to put the battery on the charger for a few minutes and then they will work in a lower drain light again.

Could that be what is happening to yours? Or are the lights really not working with a regular battery after using the rechargeable one in it?

James S said:

I have a couple of R123's from battery station, they are protected and they dont like being used in really high drain lights like that at all. I can run a QIII no problem, but if I put both of them into a 5 watt or any of my other higher drain lights, the protection on the battery kicks in immediately and I just get a flash from the light and then nothing. To reset the protection you have to put the battery on the charger for a few minutes and then they will work in a lower drain light again.

Could that be what is happening to yours? Or are the lights really not working with a regular battery after using the rechargeable one in it?

Click to expand...

I have that problem. I put regular duracell lithium in the Gladius. It doesn't turn on. I am currently charging the JS Burley batteries. I am going to hardware store to buy voltmeter to measure the power on all batteries. This is strange.

Picard,

Rechargeable lithium batteries have a much higher terminal voltage than regular non-rechargeable lithium batteries. There are currently two different rechargeable lithium chemistries. The most common is the 4.2V lithium-ion batteries. Fresh off a charger their terminal voltage is 4.2V (+/- 0.05) and their nominal voltage after use is around 3.6V. The second type - and this -might- be what you have from JS Burley - are 3.9V lithium-ion batteries. These are currently not very common. Fresh off the charger they are 3.9V (+/- 0.05) and the nominal voltage is around 3.2V.

A fresh primary lithium battery can have a terminal voltage of around 3.25V.

Many 6V devices have an absolute maximum voltage of between 7 and 8V - depending on exactly what parts were used. Anything over that maximum voltage is likely to cause damage. So the two lithium-ion batteries fresh off a charger will produce 8.5V (4.25 * 2, worst case) and 7.9V (3.95 * 2, worst case), respectively. If 7V components were used, either case would probably result in dead electronics.

So it is entirely possible you destroyed the electronics in your flashlight(s) by inserting the higher voltage rechargeable batteries.

I can tell you that the EDC-series flashlights are designed to withstand - but not run at - up to 10V. Between 7.4V and 10V, the electronics enters a special protection mode that allows the light to come on to a low setting so you have light - no matter which brightness setting you select. When the voltage falls below 7.4V the light will function normally.

Henry.

I´ve got Cr123A they have 3,3Volt (worst case) but only for a very very short time. Most time under 3 Volt

Li Rechargables usually have higher initial voltage for alonger time.

For example.

3,6 Volt +/-0,6Volt that means between 3-4,2Volt

If the 3,2Volt LIR than i guess +/-0,5Volt that means 2,7-3,7Volt

So
Go out and buy a little DMM for a few dollars and measuere the Voltage at a new Cr123a at short time used Cr123 and of course a fresh charges LIR123

--
I have that problem. I put regular duracell lithium in the Gladius. It doesn't turn on
--

Doesn´t sounds good at all. I think you fry it
Didn´t read that?
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/features/rechwarn.htm
@ Qucikbeam you should include some shootout´s one that page too.
It´s to much theoretical



eer henry was faster.

The most Hotwire´s also frys when espacially Alkalis are used.

They don´t like the 1,45Volt-1,6Volt at the beginning.
That´s why good flashlights have softstart :-D

I can't possibly fried it. I just put regular duracell lithium in it 2days ago.It worked just fine. now it doesn't turn on.

is there a way to test light LED if it works by using volt meter???

picard said:

I can't possibly fried it. I just put regular duracell lithium in it 2days ago.It worked just fine. now it doesn't turn on.

Click to expand...

And no rechargable since than???
that´s strang...

this problem happened 1 week ago before I got replacement charger & rechargeable batteries from JS burley. I thought the problem might be due to my charger or dead batteries. I put in new Burley batteries and the light turns on. I swap it with regular duracell batteries and it still works.

Now the light is dead as road killed racoon.

Is there a way for me to reset the Gladius to normal level in order to run regular CR123 ?

Picard,

I have no idea what is going on, and I have never seen a Gladius, but have a few suggestions.

Have you tried another set of lithium cr123s since the problem surfaced? Maybe one of the Duracells is bad. And the rechargeables are putting out too much voltage and the light is protecting itself.

Did you get a voltmeter? If so check and post the voltage of BOTH Duracells, and BOTH rechargeables.

Finally, are the Burleys the exact same length? Could they be longer and have bent a contact, positive or tail cap, in the Gladius?

Is everything hand tight on the Gladius (don't know how many parts unscrew on that light)? I know some lights are touchy, if the head assembly, or the regulator/led assembly is loose you won't have a ground. That would cause no photons to come out the front.

Like I said I have no knowledge of the Gladius, just throwing out some ideas for you to try.

Oh, yea, the other possibility is that you fried it. Does it have that infamous "burnt electronics" smell?

there is no burnt smell at all. it is as fresh as new born baby or new born flashlight :laughing:

@picard

i think you have only 2 options...

Test it again with 2 FRESH CR123a.

or repair it...



that´s pretty curious behaviour.

But we non electrician or engineers aren´t able to do more like this.

And also at this point you are sure it's not an incorrect placement of the tailcap itself, i.e. it's not on correctly?

Didn't you have a problem with the light going dead on you after you'd not used it a while (mabye even in mode 3)? Maybe that's not you or I'm confused about another member/light?

Ok, I figure out what happened to the light.

The cap rear spring was too compact hence it couldn't make contact with the batteries. I used pliers to pull the spring longer so it can contact with the battery.

The Gladius is working with regular lithium again.

Halelulah , God bless my Gladius.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

ok the problem is recurring again.

There is nothing wrong with the metal spring on tail cap. It did make contact with the batteries but Gladius didn't turn on.

I will return this light to Nightops to replace tailcap.

Has anyone had good experience for turn arround time for repair of this thing?? ?:scowl: