If you could build a custom home

V8TOYTRUCK

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Jul 31, 2001
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San Gabriel Valley + Burbank
What would you want in it? I hope to be building a custom home in 5 years. I guess in sort of day dreaming now. What kind of features would CPF'ers want in a custom home?

My short list

-Garage with drain so I can wash the car inside, tall enough to fit a lifted truck, excellent lighting for detailing. 8' door opening
-Solar power
-Security cameras throughout
-LED Emergency lighting? If such a thing exists.
-Fire sprinklers?
-Raised toliets so my legs don't fall asleep while sitting on the john for too long.
-Multi jet shower ( for two!)

What other cool things would you like in a home?


Added: Emergency Generator
 
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Icebreak

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Aug 14, 2002
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by the river
Small indoor pool with large tunnel connecting it to large outdoor pool. With the internal reflection of the water, the indoor pool would light up the room using outdoor light.

A tower. On the tower a large electrically adjustable chair equipped with a massive celestial binocular attached to the framework of the chair. Also on the tower along with your security cameras, remotely controllable and programmable Mega-Rays.

Heliopad with helicopter.

Batcave.

That was fun. Thanks, V8.

------------

- Jeff
 

PhotonWrangler

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In a handbasket
A bidet. :eek:

Cat-5e, co-ax & multimode fiber to every room from a central wiring closet/server room.

Generator with automatic transfer switch and whole-house surge protection.

Motion detection, DVR recording & remote web access on the video cameras.

Workshop/bench area in the basement with electronic-ballast fluorescents in the ceiling.

A bathroom on every floor, especially for when elderly relatives are visiting or staying over and they have difficulty with stairs.

A fireplace that runs on gas or wood.

AC Power and heat in the garage.

A long-range antenna w/rotor on the roof.

Gutter covers.

I could go on and on... :sssh:
 

James S

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on an island surrounded by reality
Hire a real architect. It will make a HUGE difference in the usability of the space and the ease which with the contractors can do their various jobs. It's worth the extra money.

make the framing contractor use the best practice plus framing techniques. Or whatever it's called, they can do a better job if you're willing to pay a bit more and it means less drywall cracking and other problems as the house ages, not to mention superior strength in the wind and storms and such. Hurricane strapping? if you're in that area.

After the foundation forms are in place, but before they actually pour any concrete go around with the plans and a measuring tape and be sure they are correct. You can't change the foundation later and you'd be amazed how many designs have to be altered later cause they used the forms they had on the truck rather than go back and get the correct ones to actually build the house you designed. My mothers walk in closet became a regular closet because they used a form that was 3 feet too short!

Dont let the HVAC contractors use "rule of thumb" techniques for calculating how big a furnace and AC unit that need. If the company can't do a manual-J and manual-D calculation to figure the actual heat load and necessary tonnage of AC and BTU of heat, then you dont want that company. Those documents will give them sizes for ductwork, get a copy of the specs and make sure what they are putting in is the same as what you signed in the contract. Flex duct is much cheaper to install and can be done properly and create a good system as well as regular tin, but it has to be done properly. If they get done and it looks tangled, crimped and just messy, then it's not going to work. Complain, get someone out to fix it. A bad AC system is a HUGE problem once the walls are up! DO NOT let them run the AC while doing the drywalling! That dust will permanently clog the coil and the AC guys will need to pump the system down, cut the lines and take it outside to clean it at your expense. If you need to run the heat or AC during the rest of construction make absolutely sure that you have good filters in place and change them every week or so yourself. Nobody else will care to do it but as much dust you keep off your coils the better it will work when you move in. After they deliver the air handler and AC compressor, go out and read the model numbers and make sure they are what you ordered. A lot of companies will isntall a slightly mismatched coil and compressor if thats what they have handy or even feed you a line about better humidity removal or some such. But dont buy it, get a matched system for the best efficiency. If you decide to go for a 2 stage system (which is an excellent idea but is more expensive) dont let them put a single stage thermostat on it! I can't believe how common this is and you are basically throwing away the extra money you paid for the 2 stage system! Make sure.

Tell the electrician absolutely no back stabbing. You want pigtails and wirenuts and no cheap dangerous passthrough backstabbing of outlets. Then be there for the inspection and make sure that they didn't use any backstabs. it's cheaper and faster to install with backstabbed connections, but they burn houses down, not to mention just nuisance failures, burn outs and brown outs. Run a neutral into every switch box, not just a switch loop. Fancy remote controlled light switches and other things that you might be interested in the future require a neutral in the box to run. It's not much more expensive to do this now, but virtually impossible once the walls are up. Run 3 wires (and ground) to every ceiling fixture so that you can put in a ceiling fan later, even if you dont think you want one now. Code says no more than 6 feet between outlets, but thats a maximum spacing, nothing says you can't have them closer together. In office areas or where you think you might put desks have them put in dual outlet boxes so that you dont need as many power strips and various other things later. Put in a whole house surge protector as everything has a computer in it now days, even some toilets ;) $200 for a really good whole house surge protector is a lot cheaper than buying more and more $30 power strips for the rest of your life. More lights and fixtures is always better. If you put them in you dont have to always use them, but when you want to make it bright, if you dont have them you'll be in the dark.

as far as other wiring is concerned, the more the better. at least 2 runs o coax to every room, maybe 3 if you want satellite and broadcast tv capability. At least 2 runs of CAT5 (or cat6 even better as it can carry video signals too) into every room. I would probably run twice that about of cat5. It's not expensive and you'll have a hell of a time fishing more in later. Dont know about the fiber, can't do much with it right this minute but it's not expensive either so it might be worth it for future proofing. You definitely want a "data closet" where it all ends up so that you can path phone and network and anything else throughout the house. In addition get some long PVC pipe and put in at least one run from the closet up to the attic and down to the basement and you'll probably want to use some PVC to connect the attic and the basement or other such places for you to more easily fish more wires through later.

Lastly get a video camera and go through and video tape the entire content of the walls before they drywall goes up. That way you'll know where that plumbing stack is or where that CAT5 pull goes. You can pull these low voltage wires yourself.

But I think the single most important thing is to just be there while construction is going on. No general contractor can double check as well as you can since you're much more interested and not going to let them do the same stupid things they do on every other job to your house.
 

nerdgineer

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Southern California
What I would tell my architect: one story (no stairs). Commercial quality construction, steel frame, heavy duty insulation top and sides, double paned vacuum insulated windows, copper pipes and plumbing, recirculating hot water system, heavy duty wiring & switch boxes, 9 foot arched ceilings in all the rooms. External roll down shutters over all windows and doors (like they have in Europe). Full reinforced for earthquakes (since I live in SoCal).

Separate drinking water system, with central high capacity reverse osmosis water processing. Automatic switching between internal power and electrical utility. Solid core doors throughout and camouflaged high security doors at bedrooms, hallways, etc.

Internal power either by generator or solar powered inverter and storage cells. Wiring and mounts for solar panels on roof, but no panels yet (future growth when silicon technology gets bettger). Solar tube type skylights throughout to get internal lighting in daylight. Two secure outbuildings: one for water and food supplies. One for fuel and things to keep away from the water.

Kitchen with commercial gas cooktop, commercial restaurant type oven and commercial refrigerator. Walk in closets for the wife. Reinforced safe room for me.

And nice looking - why not...

Options for fun: underground shooting range would be nice. 30 foot tall set of adult swing set would be fun (played on one of those as a kid...). I assume I'll have a lot of mature shade trees in the yard. If not, move them in and plant them.
 

vtunderground

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Roanoke, VA
I want an earth sheltered (underground) house. With a solar array, LED lighting, 3-car underground garage, wood stove, ummm... and a full bar.
 

Sixpointone

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Sep 6, 2004
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I would have an Indoor Tennis Court.

In addition I'd also have a top of the line Tennis Racquet Stringing Machine.

I've sketched out the plans before, and even if it is only a dream, it is still nice to have dreams.
 

DieselDave

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Sep 3, 2002
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FL panhandle
I'm with Chop.

All reinforced contrete, including stained concrete floors. 50' or more above sea level. A drain in EVERY room. A huge third floor attic to put all my stuff for the 55' storm surge that's bound to come if I build a house at 50' above sea level. Whole house gen. that sits 10' above the ground level.
 

geepondy

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To me location is more important then the house itself. I just want quiet, quiet, quiet. As long as I have hi speed internet access and a dish then I don't care about other commodities outside of the basic necessities. Well I'd like a nice exercise room too, I guess. In regard to the past few posts, my location would not be in a hurricane zone! Good old New England may be cold in the winter but is relatively proof from natural disasters.
 

KevinL

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At World's End
PhotonWrangler said:
Cat-5e, co-ax & multimode fiber to every room from a central wiring closet/server room.

Generator with automatic transfer switch and whole-house surge protection.

They beat me to it, but my recommendation is Belden HomeConnect (www.belden.com). You're virtually futureproof on this setup but I recommend two extra Cat6 (yes, it's official now) lines along with it so you get 4 RJ45 per room. Yeah, I'm crazy but in future everything will run over this kind of copper.

You can run phone service on Cat5/6 too, so no reason to lay in dedicated phone lines. RJ11 phone jacks will even plug directly into RJ45 sockets - it's a trick I use often and necessarily.

Whole-house UPS, you mean... 15-30 minutes of battery power to give you time to start the generator, and 'ride through' short interruptions without having to take the time and hassle to get it fired up. Expensive though, and figure on replacing the sealed lead-acids every 5 years. I suppose you can leave the high kW equipment such as heaters/fridges off the battery backup though.

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned a well for drinking water? ;)

There are also underground heat exchanger systems which serve to keep the house cool in summer and warm in winter because of the temperature difference underground. I am not very familiar with this, just heard that they exist. Would be a great way of harnessing geothermal power and keeping the electrical bills down.

Oh yeah, and a bar counter with a fully stocked bar, as has been suggested.. just the essentials! (and put THAT fridge on the battery backup :crackup:)
 

Trashman

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I have a friend that put crown molding on the lower level of his townhouse, and he inset a blue 5mm LED in every corner of the molding. They're operated by a switch. With only the crown molding lights on, it's gives a kind of high tech space ship feeling. Really, really cool.

I'd like the same thing in my house......oh, and a pool of sharks that shoot laser beams out of their heads....
 

spock

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Dec 28, 2004
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dayton,oh
in your bedrooms, put in two switches in box on the wall. one for fan and one for fan light. this lets you use light and fan without always pulling string on switch in fan. we use fan light kit for our ceiling lights. light on fan can have dimmer put in wall box. fan can have remote control kit. install metal ceiling fan braces in all rooms. run romex and cap it if you do not install fans. in closets, install lights and use closetmaid(lowes)for shelving. two types made, use the one without the angle bracket in drywall. best one uses slotted brackets on wall "hooked" to metal bracket in top of closet. completely adjustable. if heating system has air blower, install aprilaire humidifier(model 400 or 600)to keep humidity up in winter. fully automatic units. use good locks, class ll or better. outside, at 4 corners of house under eve of roof, install switched 110v outlet for motion lights. fluorescent fixtures made for many rooms. cheap, bright, and not excessive heat. use 1/4 turn "ball" valves on all water lines under sinks. in computer area, add extra outlets. just my opinion.
 
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