Flashlight Maintenance

HauseMan

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 23, 2005
Messages
16
Location
Atlanta
One of the many problems I run into with flashlights of the incandescent ilk, is that they sometimes grow dimmer over time, even with good batteries. This, of course, is often due to oxidation on the internal contacts. The best way to deal with that is to use DeOXIT spray.

This stuff ain't cheap, at nearly $12 a can. But in the world of electronics and numerous points of electrical contact, it's worth its weight in gold. I've hit the contacts in all my lights with it, and I use it when my expensive Les Paul guitar starts copping a scratchy volume/tone knob or some noise in the pickup switch, or even in the cable jack. All's quiet once again. A little dab'll do ya.

Bear in mind that the Eveready Captain 2-D cell with the red button switch came out in about 1980. Mine kept getting dimmer, and dimmer, and dimmer, no matter how fresh the batteries. So one nice hit of DeOXIT, and a 25-year night returned to bright sunny day. :takeit:

How's YOUR maintenance ?

Paul
 
Last edited:

Big_Ed

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 28, 2003
Messages
1,768
Location
Sycamore, Illinois
Sounds like a good idea, especially if it's made to be used around electronics. I assume that means it'll evaporate rather quickly after it cleans the problem areas.
 

HauseMan

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 23, 2005
Messages
16
Location
Atlanta
Hey Big_Ed;
Although it's made from mineral spirits, it does evaporate sorta-quickly. It is flammable. But I've never had a problem with it. I often think of DeOXIT as a tune-up in a can. Just don't use it on gas stoves, barbecue grills, or open campfires ! :sssh: :sweat::wow:

It's proper name is DeOXIT D5 Power Booster. It's in a 5% concentration. You can also get the 100% for a bit more money. I'll usually get the 5% in what looks to be a 6-ounce spray can for around $12. :broke:

Best thing about DeOXIT, is that it really cleans the metal. I've used it on mountaintop repeater sites, and in remote north GA, that's a plus. Because up there, weather oxidizes metals in short order. In more polluted areas, it would occur even faster. What that translates to for us, is better RF output power, with lower current consumption, and a better signal out in the world, where we need it most. And we're not always able to get to the site.

Another way to put it, is that oxidation causes equipment to draw more power in an effort to overcome resistance, trying to achieve the same result as when it was new and therefore "fresh". Or, equipment kinda slacks off on performance.

My ham/EMA group uses old 1970's vintage GE Mastr II repeaters high up in the mountains. Without DeOXIT, we'd have blown output transistors, and who knows how much more damage. Those machines are real workhorses, and worth more than words can describe. It's been a lifesaver.

I've used it in my electrical outlets all around the house, just for the sake of oxidation, and with nice results. Just a little squirt in each contact, and you're good to go, just wipe off any excess....that's all I do. Another thing is to hit your lamp sockets with some. Bulbs burn brighter !

I've used DeOXIT on my truck's battery. After wire-brushing the calcification off the terminals, I'd hit them with a squirt, and they wouldn't oxidize again for a while. Plus everything worked better; my lights were brighter, and the engine was easier to crank. After 4 years, my battery still holds 12.8 volts. But the battery really needs replacement, because it probably dips below 10 volts on crank. :help:

DeOXIT can be had at Radio Shack (if you don't mind paying alot), or at the Caig Laboratories website (www.caig.com) or at Parts Express (www.partsexpress.com). I'd recommend Parts Express as a good source for lots of electronic stuff. In fact, Ed, go to Caig's website for a quick education on their other products. Caig makes a "kit" that one can get for less than $30 that contains several of their preservation products.

In the near future, when I've got enough time to really take it apart and do a good job on it, I'm going to use DeOXIT on my vintage 1976 Pioneer SX-1250 receiver. I wanna clean the speaker-on relay that safely switches the speakers on during power up. It's been sticking, and I get a few clicks which manifest as transients to the speakers, having the potential to blow the speakers. So, I'll have to carefully take off the plastic cover/shield, and hit the relay with just a toot of DeOXIT, and I'll get (hopefully) another 29 years of service from it. I'll also be cleaning the power transistors, and putting fresh heat sink grease on those. That thing sounds better than most any receiver made today. 160 watts/channel RMS !!!

Oh, did I mention that I use it on flashlights ??? :nana:

Oxidation ? Never fear, DeOXIT is here !!! :thanks:
Paul (ENLIGHTENED)
 
Last edited:

voodoogreg

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 27, 2003
Messages
1,829
Location
Global
I have used caig products for 25 yr's back when they were named "cremlon" (sp). I am a working musician, studio and sideman work, and have seen (heard actually) a few studio's get completely re-done with caig de-oxit and then pro-gold and it was night and day.(and those days were 40 hrs, which anyone who's seen a Neve or other super high end SSL mixer will understand)

I was a flashaholic for about 8 mth's when i tried my caig stuff on em', made a world of difference.

do a search on "caig" or "maintanance" with my screen name and there will be a thread with my cleaning regime. I also have been getting better brightness outta "twist" head style light's (peak, arc, etc) by applying progold 100% to cleaned and bare threads, let it dry, then adding just a little silicone
to them. face it after 10 turn's most of the lube is gone migrating forward from the pressure of the contact with the battery. the PG leave's a harder, very conductive surface that is protective to some degree as well.

I recommend the 100% solution pen's for lights. VDG
 

Unicorn

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 19, 2000
Messages
1,339
Location
Near Seattle, WA
Great! I noticed that my lights got dimmer if I didn't periodically clean the battery and all the metal that made contact with each other to complete the circuit. I've been meaning to get some electrical contact cleaner at the local Radio Shack, but keep forgetting. I've just been using pencil erasers and light scraping. That cleaner sounds like a better solution though, less damaging and eaiser.
 

lrp

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
1,095
Super thread......I've already requested a catalog. Thanks!!
 

HauseMan

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 23, 2005
Messages
16
Location
Atlanta
I DO remember the Cremlon (sp ?) name. Talk about a blast from 'da past. I had a bottle of their CFC-based tape head cleaner. When I found that Parts Express sells the 5% for right-on $9 a can, I dumped Tape Warehouse as my supplier for Caig. They're still great for all the tape and CD/DVD media you could ever want. They even still carry Beta tape.

For lack of money, I didn't get any ProGold, but I'll make it a point to in the future. I've been so blown away by merely using the 5%. Gotta get some 100% next. I also need some CaiKleen, and some of the RBR rubber cleaner. :sold::takeit:

For the uninitiated, DeOXIT is so much easier than the old pencil eraser technique.

I've also completed the 3-LED conversion on my Mini MagLite. I'm using some Xtreme brand 1500mAH Ni-MH AA-cells, and I couldn't be happier. I took it into the mountains Tuesday, to work on a repeater site way up in the middle of nowhere. This thing cuts the darkness, and even has a nice conical beam with decent spill. Get the Nite Ize conversion kit at Wal-Mart for about $6.00

Paul

MagLite 4D with Xenon bulb
Mini MagLite w/ NiteIze 3-LED conversion
1980 Eveready Captain 2-D red button
Generic multi-mode auto emergency light (FL tube, flashlight, twin flashers)
Brinkmann MaxStar 6V hand lantern (black)
Coleman 4-D incandescent lantern
Generic 6-D twin tube flourescent lantern
Generic import mini MagLite wannabe 2-AA Xenon




 
Last edited:

HauseMan

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 23, 2005
Messages
16
Location
Atlanta
voodoogreg said:
I have used caig products for 25 yr's back when they were named "cremlon" (sp). I am a working musician, studio and sideman work, and have seen (heard actually) a few studio's get completely re-done with caig de-oxit and then pro-gold and it was night and day.(and those days were 40 hrs, which anyone who's seen a Neve or other super high end SSL mixer will understand)

I was a flashaholic for about 8 mth's when i tried my caig stuff on em', made a world of difference.

do a search on "caig" or "maintanance" with my screen name and there will be a thread with my cleaning regime. I also have been getting better brightness outta "twist" head style light's (peak, arc, etc) by applying progold 100% to cleaned and bare threads, let it dry, then adding just a little silicone
to them. face it after 10 turn's most of the lube is gone migrating forward from the pressure of the contact with the battery. the PG leave's a harder, very conductive surface that is protective to some degree as well.

I recommend the 100% solution pen's for lights. VDG

Hmmmm...do you own a LP Voodoo, too ??? (Nice axe) I treated my guitar right after I bought it. I've even treated several kids' guitars that I know. Though I don't own a Neve, or even a more-reasonably priced Mackie or Peavey, I HAVE used the stuff on RadioShack/Gemini PA/DJ boards.

Can we say...."no static at all" :wow:

Compass Point had about the nicest Neve setup I've seen. Any experience I had on boards were more along the lines of PR&E, Autogram, and even low-end Arrakis broadcast stuff.

The dealer-guy I bought my Voodoo from had a tube-amp that was getting crunchy-crackly on him. I told him to use some DeOxIT. Now that Mesa really rocks. I think he had an F-50. I want a LoneStar or RectoVerb 50. Of course, I'll take a RoadKing 2x12 combo. I'll even take a Flextone III. Anything beats running a DS-1 into the old stereo's mike jacks.

My problem is that I need to practice that guitar, and get off the computer for a while....LOL I'm only (re)beginning after spending most of my life on sax...both alto & tenor. I'm not a working musician, preferring to just play ad-lib for my own sake of learning. When I'm able, I wanna attend the Atlanta Institute of Music's guitar school.

:rock::rock::rock:
Paul
 

voodoogreg

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 27, 2003
Messages
1,829
Location
Global
HauseMan said:
I DO remember the Cremlon (sp ?) name. Talk about a blast from 'da past. I had a bottle of their CFC-based tape head cleaner. When I found that Parts Express sells the 5% for right-on $9 a can, I dumped Tape Warehouse as my supplier for Caig. They're still great for all the tape and CD/DVD media you could ever want. They even still carry Beta tape.

For lack of money, I didn't get any ProGold, but I'll make it a point to in the future. I've been so blown away by merely using the 5%. Gotta get some 100% next. I also need some CaiKleen, and some of the RBR rubber cleaner. :sold::takeit:

For the uninitiated, DeOXIT is so much easier than the old pencil eraser technique.

I've also completed the 3-LED conversion on my Mini MagLite. I'm using some Xtreme brand 1500mAH Ni-MH cells, and I couldn't be happier. I took it into the mountains Tuesday, to work on a repeater site way up in the middle of nowhere. This thing cuts the darkness, and even has a nice conical beam with decent spill. Get the Nite Ize conversion kit at Wal-Mart for about $6

Paul







It is a priviledge to consort with another fine gentleman in the know about fine maintenance product's for Hi-FI ,musical studio/stage gear and Yes flashlight's!
I find us lucky to have the old CFC cremolin quality transfer over to caig, without the ozone depleting effects and even better in Pro-gold trim.
I too love the RBR for older analog multitrack decks, (which as a professional musician i still get to walk into a studio for a session and sometimes find those warm fat Studer and MCI 16 and 24 track 2 inch decks!!) I do miss the amperex "cleaner/conditioner" though, maybe the best for the capstan-pinchroller use.

Yes i truly recommend the pro-gold 100% pen esp for lights, and imho feel that expect for SP-OPS boys wading in water, sand, and muck, deox-it and Pro-gold is fully effective in FL's, and caig Shield (formerly "preserve-it") is not usually needed.
Heck even deox-it will on its own do very noticable magic on a virgin light,, I have cleaned many of my friends light's lately and it's very noticable to even casual light users. VDG
 

voodoogreg

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 27, 2003
Messages
1,829
Location
Global
HauseMan said:
Hmmmm...do you own a LP Voodoo, too ??? (Nice axe) I treated my guitar right after I bought it. I've even treated several kids' guitars that I know. Though I don't own a Neve, or even a more-reasonably priced Mackie or Peavey, I HAVE used the stuff on RadioShack/Gemini PA/DJ boards.

Can we say...."no static at all" :wow:

Compass Point had about the nicest Neve setup I've seen. Any experience I had on boards were more along the lines of PR&E, Autogram, and even low-end Arrakis broadcast stuff.

The dealer-guy I bought my Voodoo from had a tube-amp that was getting crunchy-crackly on him. I told him to use some DeOxIT. Now that Mesa really rocks. I think he had an F-50. I want a LoneStar or RectoVerb 50. Of course, I'll take a RoadKing 2x12 combo. I'll even take a Flextone III. Anything beats running a DS-1 into the old stereo's mike jacks.

My problem is that I need to practice that guitar, and get off the computer for a while....LOL I'm only (re)beginning after spending most of my life on sax...both alto & tenor. I'm not a working musician, preferring to just play ad-lib for my own sake of learning. When I'm able, I wanna attend the Atlanta Institute of Music's guitar school.

:rock::rock::rock:
Paul

No but it would be appropriate! I do have a 57' gold top i bought back in the early 80's before the skyrocket prices began, and a 77 black LP STD so I could retire the goldy. I use mostly my two PRS Mcartys and a 57' sunburst strat. And yes, all have been "caiged" often! VDG
 

voodoogreg

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 27, 2003
Messages
1,829
Location
Global
sorry missed part of your post! AIG is a great place to really accelerate your
knowledge of guitar and music in general, as is MI(GIT) were I went in the mid 80's.
watching a neve SSL auto console was a highpoint in my "cool music gear" learning! seeing all those faders and knob's dance was a trip! Now with protools it's amazing what can be done, but just donn't look as cool!

I lean towards vintage amps and for road work hand built unit's like matchless
DR Z, and fuchs. For a listen to some of these, visit
http://www.drzamps.com/z28.html
or http://www.fuchsaudiotechnology.com/html/sound_files.html

to hear some models i am endorsed by and have demoed for.
Well enough OT before I get modded! VDG
 

kd5byb

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Dec 18, 2006
Messages
12
voodoogreg said:
Do a search on "caig" or "maintanance" with my screen name and there will be a thread with my cleaning regime. I also have been getting better brightness outta "twist" head style light's (peak, arc, etc) by applying progold 100% to cleaned and bare threads, let it dry, then adding just a little silicone
to them. face it after 10 turn's most of the lube is gone migrating forward from the pressure of the contact with the battery. the PG leave's a harder, very conductive surface that is protective to some degree as well.

I hate to pile on an old thread, but I've just got to do so. De-Oxit D5/Progold is the bomb for any electrical contact. I restore antique radios and De-Oxit D5 has a magical way of turning old, balky, scratchy audio pots and switches back to like-new condition.

In fact, the first thing I did upon receiving the P1D-CE this afternoon was to take it apart, clean the threads, apply De-oxit to the contacts and Syl-glide (silicone grease) to the threads and o-ring, just like you said above.

later,
ben, KD5BYB
 

Turbo DV8

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
1,464
Location
Silicon Valley
I discovered my dad's bottle of DeOxit 30 years ago. It was amazing what it could do to an RCA jack, before they were gold plated. Problem is, recently I looked for DeOxit, and could find it available only in a "pen" or spray can. The former was cumbersome and slow to use, and the latter was very wasteful. Is DeOxit still available as a small bottle of liquid, which you can simply dip a Q-tip into? This is the best way to apply it, in my opinion.
 

65535

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 13, 2006
Messages
3,320
Location
*Out There* (Irvine, CA)
Reading this thread brought smells of aresol cleaners to my nose and a ncie tiglling feeling in my back from my days of cleaning electrical stuff. Btw stray from silicone lube on washers they swell al ot.
 

bfg9000

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 7, 2005
Messages
1,119
Deoxit is actually a quite different formula than the old Cramolin Red, made by the former US importer of Cramolin, Caig Laboratories. Deoxit gums pots and sliders where Cramolin had lubed them, so Caig developed a separate CaiLube/FaderLube. There was actually a falling out between the companies.

Cramolin in Germany now makes a Freon-free version of Cramolin Red called Contaclean which some audiophiles claim is superior to Deoxit, but being flammable it is shipped as hazardous cargo.
 

Codeman

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 26, 2004
Messages
2,690
Turbo DV8 said:
I discovered my dad's bottle of DeOxit 30 years ago. It was amazing what it could do to an RCA jack, before they were gold plated. Problem is, recently I looked for DeOxit, and could find it available only in a "pen" or spray can. The former was cumbersome and slow to use, and the latter was very wasteful. Is DeOxit still available as a small bottle of liquid, which you can simply dip a Q-tip into? This is the best way to apply it, in my opinion.

Yes. A Google search should find a few places.
 

thunderlight

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 24, 2005
Messages
295
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I used deoxit and progold to repair a 2C Rayovac cloud logo bullet that I acquired recently. Initially, I sprayed all the components I could reasonably get to with deoxit and progold. Simultaneously, I removed as much of the battery acid corrosion as I could.

Once I did all of that the light was turning on regardless of the position of the switch once the bezel was screwed on. :awman:

Since the switches on these old lights are riveted to the body, I didn't have the facility to take them apart. Nevertheless, I figured that there was a short, perhaps due to some corrosion inside the switch mechanism.

I figured my last shot was to spray deoxit and then progold into the grooves between the slider and the base of the switch using the provided "coffee stirrer" straws. This unlikely fix worked and now I have a working 2C, 2D, and 3D version of this Rayovac model! -- Excellent products!:grin2:
 
Top