How to open KL1 Head? Free FLuPIC Board!

How do you check the generation of the KL1 head? I purchased it recently so the revision should be fairly recent.

I want to mod the head so how do I open it up?

Has anyone put a reflector in it instead of an optic? Thanks.

Edit: If anyone can provide detailed information on how to take apart the head, electronics without destroying it and maybe provide me with the parts to put in a reflector (reflector, o-rings...) I'll give them a free FLuPIC board and a big thank you!!!

GoldServe

i don't really know how to check the generation so i will skip that

i think you will be able to find replacements for the optic at the sandwich shoppe(do a google search) IMS 17mm reflector or NX05 or fraen optic. OR if you can the Mcflood reflector if you can find them.

to open it up, you need either SUPER human strength for twisting the head open

or you can use a soldering iron to heat the head(mine you, use a glove) for around few seconds around the head, heat longer if needed.(just don't put it there for 1min<)

you can try to remove the plastic bucket and negative contact ring. Again, make sure both the solder posts have been completely de-soldered. You'll also need to desolder the wire coming from the POPSITIVE battery contact (it is near the LED wires on the board). After that you might be able to pull it out , etc out of the back. That will give you access to the back of the board and you might be able to push it out.

the converter is in the base and is attached to the KL1 by glue and two solder post The glue was easy to cut through with a soldering iron, so heating the entire base might help as the thing is glue to the head.

DO NOT DAMAGE THE PLASTIC THINGY HOLDING THE POSITIVE CONTACT!!!

[must have flupic board.....]

I'll be sure to give that a try. Need to find gloves, etc. PM me your address first and I'll decide later =P

I tried heating with a soldering iron >30 secons and the surroundings did not even get too hot to touch. It does not conduct heat very well. It looks like i'll need two strap clamps and see if I get enough strength that way.

If anyone else has any ideas, they are welcomed!

pm sented and btw, i nearly post it here

try heating it more like 1 min

sometimes soldering irons are different and time will be diff too.

Tried to put soldering iron over 3mins at 700 degrees F. I have wrapped some rubber around the end to twist but it doesn't look like i'm gettin enough grip. Might need some kind of mechanical assistance.

hmm.... you can use 2 big pilers(which i don't think most ppl will have even 1 that fits kl1)

or buy those strap thingy thing let me find a picture...

did you heat only 1 part of the head or the whole of the head?

I only heated one part of the head and let the heat conduct through. When I moved my soldering iron head around, I was starting to notice some white scratches on the HAIII finish!!

I guess I'll have to wait till next week to open the thing up. I still need to buy that McR-18 reflector..and what size glass lense to put in the head?

don't know the size of the lens.srry

if i get the board, it will be my first!! as i don't really have much money as a kid...

Cool, you're pretty new here! Welcome welcome. I'll wait a few more days to see if there are any more replies.

wow, after reading the firmware link in your sig, i was amazed ! you manage to create a whole thing on your own, make it so good and have so many options, now it is quite simple that even i can understand how to use it.. but i shall nvr understnad how to make one

Chester's description sounds like it might be for the older KL1.
I've never taken apart any of them but I remember that most of the people doing KL1 mods stopped when the latest generation appeared.
I infer from this that it simply aint as easy as it used to be.

I think the generations went something like this:
1W low-dome with NX-?? optic and domed positive battery contact.
1W low-dome with NX-?? optic and flat (reverse polarity prevention) battery contact.
1W high-dome with NX-?? optic and flat (reverse polarity prevention) battery contact.
3W high-dome with NX-?? optic and flat (reverse polarity prevention) battery contact.
3W high-dome with TIROS optic and KL4-style housing.

Ouch. That will suck. What do you think I should put on my SF body now? An Aleph head?

you can get aleph head from http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/index.php

all the things need are there too

you can still continue to try open the kl1 everyday as a daily form of exercise , didn't know time really flew so fast

do i still get the board?

I'll try the strap wrenches. Maybe I'll be the first to open one new generation KL1 head =P

yea, guniness world record! : first guy to open a 4th gen kl1!!!
hehe..
btw, i can switch between 3 alk or 3nimh at anytime right? for the board.

and also, can it be used with amber lux 3s?

got to go to bed, being in the other half of the whole means a whole different thing

Yes you can. What option would you like 1200ms or 800ms? I'll ship it out sometime this week.

i think i will get the ... which one do you think is best for a kid? i am thinking 800ms as well.... i think my reaction are fast

cool!! thanks for the board!!! i will make good use of it
maybe post a few pictures too
e.g. soldering mess and the final mod


lights out. or should i say rise and shine
kk gtg bye bye

chesterqw said:

i think i will get the ... which one do you think is best for a kid? i am thinking 800ms as well.... i think my reaction are fast

Click to expand...

What light are you going to put it in?
Clickie switches are pretty much quicker than twisty switches.
:laughing:

Sent e-mail regarding shipping address. Thanks for the help.

I'll try to work on opening the head still, maybe with strap wrenches...